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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hippo or others with experience...(I know, a lot of questions by a dummy. Soon, I'll be a dummy with this experience...)

I have a '02 FI touring model, and I bought the service manual and plan to do all of the maintenance myself. I wanted to ask a GENERAL question, and only wanted some BALLPARK responses, because you folks have probably seen it all.

During my regular maintenance (after the initial 1,000 service), on AVERAGE how often does the the following usually require an adjusment? I plan to check every 5,000 miles, but wanted some input.

a) Primary chain

b) Secondary drive belt

c) Clutch

d) Also, there is a dummy plug on the crank case (bottom - vertical). Would it help to remove that during an oil change also (I removed it once -- should I use locktite, or pipe sealant on it now)?

e) And the manual says to use "Locktite pipe thread sealant with teflon 565" on the primary case drain plug. What can I use if I can't find that?

d) On "average" use, how long do front/rear brake pads last?

e) Do I really need to lube my cables every 5,000 miles if operating in a dry, clean enviroment? Any "other" lube products you might recommend here?

Thanks in advance, for anyone taking the time to respond to questions like these!
 

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During my regular maintenance (after the initial 1,000 service), on AVERAGE how often does the the following usually require an adjusment? I plan to check every 5,000 miles, but wanted some input.

a) Primary chain
rarely needs adjustment after it is adjusted once or twice in particular with synthetic oil

b) Secondary drive belt
rarely they don't really stretch

c) Clutch
depends on rider I just adjust it when I lube the cable

d) Also, there is a dummy plug on the crank case (bottom - vertical). Would it help to remove that during an oil change also (I removed it once -- should I use locktite, or pipe sealant on it now)?
Do NOT under ANY circumstances routinely remove this plug, it serves no purpose and it is possible to crack the case in doing so if you get unlucky.

e) And the manual says to use "Locktite pipe thread sealant with teflon 565" on the primary case drain plug. What can I use if I can't find that?
It's real easy to find, even the dealers have little tiny tubes, all it is is liquid teflon sealant. You can use teflon tape also. Do not overtighten.

d) On "average" use, how long do front/rear brake pads last?
A lot of guys complain of rapid wear, mine seem to last. If you can get away with it change them when you change tires.

e) Do I really need to lube my cables every 5,000 miles if operating in a dry, clean enviroment? Any "other" lube products you might recommend here?
I just use ATF and it seems to last forever, at least 1 year aprox 15K. When I do this I generally wash the switch housimgs out with a bunch of WD40 and lube the throttle grip with dry graphite powder.
Pump the steering neck full of grease when you first get the bike to keep water from going in there, they have very little grease from the factory.
 

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Is'nt that all covered in the back of the owners manual where the service tech puts the validation stamp on it?:D
 

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The idea might be a bit along the lines of what I tend to do, use stuff and do things in such a way that you can basically just do one service a year regardless of how many miles you ride other then basic oil changes and still have a perfectly maintained bike.

Like today I put a rear tire on and the rear brakes had maybe 50% left, but I changed them anyway as it only takes less then a minute with the wheel off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hippo, Thanks for the reply, But...

Now I am kinda concerned about that crank dummy plug. It seemed to have locktite on the threads when I removed it, and it seemed to go back in further than it's original position (I never felt good about the re-install). It just wouldn't "get tight".

Do you think I should pull it, use locktite and re-torque to 10-14 lbs.? I think I over torqued it, but no damage has been done yet. If damage hasn't been done already, am I still at risk (assuming I over torqued it?)

If I didn't split the case (unintentially) by now, should I mess with it? The fact that I feel it sits deeper in to the crank makes me concerned.

Hate to beat a dead horse here, but it really has me curious now (I'll never mess with it after this!).

Thanks for your time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hippo - Concerning the Crank dummy plug -- does that mean I should leave it alone? (I thought about re-installing it with locktite and torquing it to the the 10-14 lbs.).

(I think it was installed at more than the torque spec -- I would like to re-torque it)

Is it a case of "leave it alone" if it doesn't leak?
 

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That's a hard call to make. If something were to happen it probably would already have happened and I would tend to leave it alone and ocasionally check for seapage.

If I were to remove it I would probably buy a new plug. They usually have the threads coated with dry loctite and the torque specs are intended for new plugs with this coating.
Actually this goes for all the drain plugs, they are incredibly easy to strip if you use the called for torque with used plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...Thanks Hippo -- there are NO places I can go for that kinda info...

I'll buy a new plug, and not use it unless the 'other' seaps...
 
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