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Discussion Starter #1
Getting my bike ready to ride to Sturgis, so I am at the Harley dealer talking to a service writer so he talkes me into using semi-synthetic oil so I go to the parts area get the stuff and start talking to the parts manager, He says never use full synethic and if I used this semi-synethic harley could void the warrenty on the engine , so I was back to the Harley oil , half the price anyway wtf safe riding rickpoco
 

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I use Mobil 1 V-TWIN 20-50 in my 99 WG and have since after breakin. NO LEAKS, NO RUNS, NO ERRORS. If it's good enough for Jet engines it's good for my HD and cars.
 

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Life blood

I just got 1,000 Mi. service and dumped the harley oil at 500 Mi switched to Redline oils. Not that there's any thing wrong with HD oil it's just my personal preference at this time.
On my next service I plan on changing to Mobil 1. I want to make sure it's completly broken in before going completly synthetic.
I have been using it in cars and have been amazed at the results.
Just my 2cents if you think you might ride enough miles to put you over your next service, synthetic will have you coverd till you get back.
Just be sure to change back to regular oil if you ever change cams, you will never break in a cam with synthetic oil.
Here's a little info. on oil for motorcycles.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
 

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i studied on this long and hard until a friend who restores antique airplanes ,,all air cooled ,,,informed me the f.a.a. will not approve synthetic oil because air cooled engines are not the same tight tolarences as liqued cooled,,,,thats why its important to warm your v twin up .,,,, not for the oil but for the engine to expand and seal,,,he said the thicker oil is better in these gaps until they expand,,and most wear occurs at start up,,,ps he is a firm believer in synthetic in autos
 

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I realized I made a mistake on my previous post.
I made the mistake of typing Mobil1 and should have typed in Mobil 1 V-twin 20-50
As woodwalkertc88 pointed out by no means should you ever use lighter viscosity than recomended by the manfacturer.

I hope I won't start a flame but I also remember the f.a.a. not approving synthetic oils many years ago due to o-ring and gasket problems, but that was way before any was avaliable for use other than the air force.

It is well proven that most wear occurs at start up and that is why I choose to go synthetic. My bike sits for weeks when I have busy work weeks and has to be stored for winter due to weather.

That is great advice to let your engine warm up I believe as well as fresh oil warming up your engine is one of the most important you can do.
:) :)
 

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woodwalkertc88 said:
i studied on this long and hard until a friend who restores antique airplanes ,,all air cooled ,,,informed me the f.a.a. will not approve synthetic oil because air cooled engines are not the same tight tolarences as liqued cooled,,,,thats why its important to warm your v twin up .,,,, not for the oil but for the engine to expand and seal,,,he said the thicker oil is better in these gaps until they expand,,and most wear occurs at start up,,,ps he is a firm believer in synthetic in autos
Have him explain to you how 20W50 synthetic is thinner than 20W50 fossil oil. If he is able to explain it with a straight face, smile politely and never believe anything he says again.
 

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Use whatever you want - Hell I don't care if you use drain-o. I'm going to continue using synthetic in mine.
 

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Hey, this reminds me, did I ever tell you guys about the time we had a hydralic leak in one of our systems and we had to pour coffie, water and urine (yep) in the Hydralic Resorvor to keep presure for the fight controls.

All, the mighty C-130 ;)
 

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Well I'm switching back to HD oil . I put AMSOIL in my 2000 and a friends 98. When we got to Sturgis they were both making all kinds of noise and we couldn't keep the oil light from coming on when they slowed down.
And it was only in the upper 80's. Last year it was over 100 out there and we didnt have a bit of trouble. I had the 97 then and it was just fine.
It droped to the low side of the gauge but the light stayed out.
Even going down the road they were clattering.
I changed back when I got home and it shows about 8 lbs on mine now all warmed up and no noise.
So you can keep your junk hi teh oil. I'll keep using what I've used for the last 35 years
 

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Just shipped 2000 fatboy to vail colorado, does anyone know what type of oil works best up here? Altitute 8,000 ft. , temp 82 degrees
 

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HD 20- 50 will be just fine between 40 and 95 . But I'd stay away from AMSOIL . I learned it thins out way to much when its hot.
 

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Welcome Olpusa !

You need to run the correct viscosity for the temprature range of your area. As far as altitude the only effect that will have is on your carburetion unless you have fuel injection.

Which ever brand you use is up to you. I personaly won't use anything that has not been proven to perform.

This is what makes this forum so great. Everyone can voice their opions expertise and personal experience.

FLHT has posted a problem with Amsoil synthetic which can prevent the rest of us from using that junk. Two bikes using the same oil experience the same problem that's proof enough for me.
That looks to me like Amasoil lost some of it's viscosity causing a drop in oil pressure,and that can be a terminal problem.
I seen their ad and was wondering about that BS it looked impresive THANK YOU !
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I will continue to use harley oil because I have an extended warrenty. My beef with these inet forums is anyone can come on and make all kinds of claims, and what cheaper way to get free exporsure for you product. I read a lot of bike stuff and talk to a lot of riders and service people and not a one (except the service writer,who uses it in a drag bike) use full sythetic oil, in fact they all say don't use full sythetic, the guy with the drag bike uses semi-sythetic. saferiding rickpoco
 

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I'm curious if anyone actually thinks synthetic is worse than fossil (after break in and assuming motorcycle synthetic). Or, is it that you just don't think its worth the extra money?

This debate went on for years in my Porsche club, untill Porsche (factory) started using Mobil 1 exclusivlely (air/oil cooled as well, prior to 2000).

The only things negative I remember reading are 1) high price, 2) sometimes causes break in problems, and 3) on some bikes it seems to cause some problems with slipping clutches (I'm not real mechanical but on one of the Honda nets they com[plained it maybe leaked into the clutch or something, due to being so slippery?)

On a Beamer net site I belong to, it seems like most, but never all, use synthetic or think its just a waste of money (i.e. not bad, just not better).
I thought it was pretty well accepted that synthetic was superior in hot conditions? Not sure, just curious.

greg
 

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Greg,

The Great Oil Debate rages on. After much reading, the best answer I've read is "whatever you use, change it and the filter frequently".

wyo
 

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Do a search on the web and see how many articles there are on the superiority of synthetic oils. I've been using synthetics in my cars for 8 or 9 years now and have 235,000 on my car and 153,000 on my wife's without any engine trouble to speak of. Engines still run strong with little loss of power. Also, you can use synthetic oil without voiding your warranty. I have the extended warranty too but case-law prohibits a company from mandating the use of a certain product to retain warranty unless they provide it for free.
 
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