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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just purchased the 2 inch in dash oil temp guage for my 05 flht from the h-d dealer and am wondering why I cant mount the sending unit into the extra drain plug/pipe plug on the oil pan insted of the oil supply line behind the oil line cover. Has anyone done it this way?
 

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I would sure think you could, I bought the one from Wally's and that is where its located. If I would have bought the HD unit I would have put it in that location also, you might have to extend the wires some.
 

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How difficult was mounting the oil temp guage? Remove fairing? Problems hiding the lines/s? Did you mount it in the worthless temp guage slot? I have tried to find Wallys online, do you know the sight? DID H-D not have the oil temp guage avbl when you went to Wallys? I know a lot of questions, but how else does one learn.
thanks,
ken
By the way regarding our discussion in the engine mod area, I feel that my build is a good one for the type of riding I do, mostly 2up highway cruising. It has good mid range torque, yet gets around town very well also. Running 65mph @ 2800 rpm it quickly gets up to 85-90 mph before reaching 4000 rpm. My only concern has been the cold start at times & some stumbling when decelerating then accelerating. These are really probably minor & I feel are due to the 8* injectors. The service manager at the dealer that did the build knows about my concerns. He read the service bulletin today, the first he knew about it, & ordered the CVO 25* injectors for me. He is also the person that gave me advice & info on the 95" big bore according to my riding style. He steered me away from certain things: high compression heads & pistons, SERT (not at the drag strip or racing light to light), & did not try to sell only H-D products. He has years of engine builds & races his own bikes and has a good reputation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Definatley buy the one from wallys the hd sending unit wont fit in the pipe plug making much more work for the installer. How much is labor at the dealer? Mounthing the guage isnt a problem you do have to remove the faring cap.
 

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The whole job was a piece of cake I put it in the spot where the useless air temp gauge was. If you don't have a service manual you might want to pick one up, it sure makes life easier when working on the bike. Pulling the fairing was easy, I ran the wire from the unit along the frame then along side the clutch cable and into the fairing. To protect the wire and make a neater looking install I used 1/8" Expandable Braided Sleeving that I bought from Parts-express.com. The instructions tell you to cut the plug off that was used for the air temp gauge I just made pigtails with spade connectors on them to plug into the HD plug rather than cut and splice. I didn't go with the HD one because of cost, at times I'm a cheap A$$. I'm pretty sure you could bush the sending unit for the HD gauge so it would go into the same location the Wally's unit screws into.

I wonder if your decel stumbling is because the injectors shutdown on decel until about 1,800 - 2,000 rpm and then turn back on when you give it throttle once again which might give you the feeling of a stumble. It will be interesting to know how well the CVO injectors address that issue with your build.
 

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I installed the HD Oil Temp gauge in the extra oil pan plug. Just used an adapter bushing. Put telfon tape on both ends. Worked great - much easier than the HD install of putting on the oil return line.
 

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2005UltraNC said:
I installed the HD Oil Temp gauge in the extra oil pan plug. Just used an adapter bushing. Put telfon tape on both ends. Worked great - much easier than the HD install of putting on the oil return line.
Did you have to add any wire to the line going to the sending unit or did HD make it plenty long enough?
 

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2005UltraNC said:
I installed the HD Oil Temp gauge in the extra oil pan plug. Just used an adapter bushing. Put telfon tape on both ends. Worked great - much easier than the HD install of putting on the oil return line.
You aren't supposed to use tape and or sealer. The unit has to conduct. It won't leak if you just screw it in snug. Don't pull the oil filler plug out and you won't have to dump your oil. I lost less the a tablespoon when I did mine this way.
 

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2005UltraNC

I'm in the middle of installing HD 1 1/2" Oil Temp Gauge on my 01' FLHRI. Not only is a pain in the butt to get the sending unit in the directed area (90deg. oil return hose) the supplied brass 90deg. "T" does not lign up with the oil fittings mounted in the engine.

Remounting he sending unit to the plug in the pan is an option. What size bushing did you use?

I left a service loop in my wires (to the sending unit), so that I can mount in either location. No extension in wiring is needed.

Okay, I'm going to think out loud here...
HD says to install the sending unit where the feed line was. Supplied oil hose cut 1 1/2" in lengths attached to supplied brass "T" (in/out/sending unit). Is it done this way to keep the sending unit isolated from the pan/engine (whatever) that could act as a "heatsink"? HD described mounting method would keep the sending units sensor in the oil only. (Intructions says to use Loctite 565 Pipe Sealant on sensor. I really hate leaks!)

Would we even notice a difference of temp. due to the mounting location? I could go throu the trouble and find shorter fittings to make the HD location work. Or I could just use the bushing size you did....

Did I babble enough? Anyone have thoughts??
 

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The oil in the line will be warmer than the oil in the sump (pan). That being said, I would still put the sender in the sump (pan) and not the hose. The LED temp dipstick reads the sump. Much cleaner installation in the sump pan and not enough temp difference to worry about IMO.. (I can't tell you what the temp difference would be-maybe less than 15 degreees. Also, one fellow had oil pressure problems when he put the sender in the hose and the dealer had to take care of. If you put the sender in the pan-find the appropriate adapter bushing at a auto supply store/hardware store and Wally's instructions say not to put sealer on the threads.
 

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Yup. Looking like the sump is the place. Kinda scary that the sending unit is so exposed to road debris (rocks, sticks, i.e. something that can hit it and break it off).

Unfortunately, I found this out after I started the install. I removed the oil feed hose. How the heck do you get it back on with clamps without taking the enging out?!

I figured the temp difference would be negligible. Just being anal!
 

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Beg to differ. The HD oil temp sending unit has two wires (ground and signal) - thus no need to worry about engine contact (i.e. normally ground). Now, Mwalton is correct for the Wally's temp gauge.
 

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As for the HD sending unit and 90 deg adapter not lining up, I experienced the same problem. removed the pipe fittings to the trans and the engine crankcase. cleaned up the threads and put on fresh sealent then reinstaled the pipe fittins deep enough to alow the 90 deg pipe to line up. I had read earlier post of no oil pressue and I believe this may be the culpret. Problen solved and I am happy except it is not a perfect match to the rest of the guages. That is not what I expected from a factory part.:badmood:
 

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Ive tried it in the pan and the line makes a big difference the oil temp in the line will show heat long before it does from the pan tried a dipstick temp gauge at the same time with both and temps were almost 140 and still not registering on the gauge connected to the front of the pan however as engine temp increased beyond that they came closer together up to where there was about 15 degress difference at 225 or so...While with the sender inline they agreed within a few degrees
 

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Boatman said:
The LED temp dipstick reads the sump.

This is true however it is in the stream of oil returing from the engine..And the oil at the front of the pan is in a relatively stagnant area...
 
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