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Passin' through
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm still shopping for who's to wrench my build... The last indy said he would add shims under the oil pump spring to lower overall engine temps, and to keep the oil pressure up at a constant 40 - 60 psi. He admitted this could rob 1-2 HP by keeping the pump running non-stop but he would compensate for the loss by adding a crank case breather valve to gain about 3 HP.

PROs and CONs with adding the oil pump shim?
PROs and CONs with adding the crank case breather valve?

This easter egg hunt is becoming an obsession. It's a good thing I'm enjoying the ride...
:brows:
 

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Oil pressure shimming

We were using small washers when the T/C's first cam out, as per a conversation we had with Ron Dickey, (Owner, Axtell Sales) in regards to the oiling of these. We then decided to manufacture a spring shim. That is what we use. If we run out of those, and are too busy to make more at the time, we buy 'em from Zippers. Same part, does the same job. Works well.
Scott
 

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Shims

On my 2000 tc I polished the relief valve a little less than .001" and used a flat #10 washer. Got rid of ticking valves and runs 60+ psi on the highway
 

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An old main jet from a CV works, freebee
The stock spring is all over the map as far as height, I would spring for a baisley spring and call it good. Very consistent QC and a new beter relief curve only blowing off at peak rather than partial amounts right off idle to max like the stock spring does. I know this because I test them. The Baisley tests at 52psi all day long on the bench. With hot oil in the motor a little different story. The stocker begins to bleed at 15psi sometimes less, no consistency.
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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nw_guy4_fun said:
The stock spring is all over the map as far as height, I would spring for a baisley spring and call it good.
I echo what nw guy says. If you put the Baisley spring beside the stock one, it makes Harleys look like a cheap part out of a toy.

Chris
 

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Passin' through
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

All, thanks for the replies. I now understand adding a shim/washer to the OEM oil spring is better than not doing so, and swapping out the OEM spring for a Baisley is better yet. Good to go.

Crank case breather valve a big deal? PRO/CON
 

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Flashkev said:
All, thanks for the replies. I now understand adding a shim/washer to the OEM oil spring is better than not doing so, and swapping out the OEM spring for a Baisley is better yet. Good to go.

Crank case breather valve a big deal? PRO/CON
DO NOT USE THE S&S BREATHER VALVE. It is not a help. Concentrate on the problem at hand, good ring seal and head breathing and forget the valve.
 

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IronButt
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I feel the spring is the best way to go,.. cost is only 13.50 for it and it is a true fix. I have used the shim in the past but have had the oil pressure go back to near stock as the spring ended up collapsing some . Same deal if you stretch it, they have a memory. If you are removing it anyway why not just replace it with a better quality spring. -2$en#e-
 

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nw_guy4_fun said:
DO NOT USE THE S&S BREATHER VALVE. It is not a help. Concentrate on the problem at hand, good ring seal and head breathing and forget the valve.
@gree: @gree: @gree: Your a smart man NW_GUY
 

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HDWRENCH said:
I feel the spring is the best way to go,.. cost is only 13.50 for it and it is a true fix. I have used the shim in the past but have had the oil pressure go back to near stock as the spring ended up collapsing some . Same deal if you stretch it, they have a memory. If you are removing it anyway why not just replace it with a better quality spring. -2$en#e-

Could you please explain what year TC's need the new spring? My 05 RK with the HD accessory manual oil pressure guage shows 45 to 50 pounds of oil pressure going 70 MPH. My 07 Street Glide shows 32 pounds of oil pressure on the stock gauge at 70 MPH.

I know the HD accessory gauge should show a more accurate reading than the electric gauge on the 07 SG, as it is a manual direct pressure gauge VS an electric gauge that can be off a few pounds.
 

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I had a Baisley and took it out in less than 1000 mi.and gave it away.I replaced it with a stock spring that was on the long side(compared a few).I then shimmed it with a brass washer.The pressure runs between 32-38psi.cruising with hot oil.
I'm happy.
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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hdforme62 said:
I had a Baisley and took it out in less than 1000 mi.and gave it away.
Maybe you could elaborate on the reason you took it out.

Chris
 

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ceraaa42 said:
Maybe you could elaborate on the reason you took it out.

Chris
\
Some people got nervious when their oil pressure would go to 60psi on start up. I have been running one for 40,000 miles and my op jumps up over 50psi on start up and at first it made me worry.
 

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IronButt
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If the bike is making 30 psi running down the road great but what is it at once hot and you stop to le the bike idle?? I have seen planty that you cannot even tell if the needle has moved at a hot idle. I feel that if you running that low of oil psi at idle that you can starve the engine for oil. The spring can be used in any year t/c. I would not swap a spring if you have 12 psi hot idle and good spi when running .

I checked a 07 here that had 220 oil temps and with a true gauge( auto meter tapped in) it had 3 psi at 1040 rpms. It was a rather loud engine as far as t/c's go. We swapped out the spring and it has 11 psi hot idle and will hold 30-32 at crusing rpm
 

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Passin' through
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Discussion Starter #16
Is there a valid concern of having too much oil pressure?
How much is too much?

... Assume correct level of oil (as reflected on dipstick).
 

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Way more pressure than I needed or wanted.I can not see what is to be gained by running considerable amounts more than is needed.
My oil pressure is over 10psi. at hot idle with my long stock spring and washer.
Just my opinion of course.
 

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HDWRENCH said:
I feel the spring is the best way to go,.. cost is only 13.50 for it and it is a true fix. I have used the shim in the past but have had the oil pressure go back to near stock as the spring ended up collapsing some . Same deal if you stretch it, they have a memory. If you are removing it anyway why not just replace it with a better quality spring. -2$en#e-
The beauty of syn oil is that it flows well when cold AND hot.

Running DINO 20-50 in I think the guy is from Montana may have some challenges on cold days. Now in Arizona and S Florida where it's hot all the time thicker is better. A cold night here is 60F.
 

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Flashkev said:
Is there a valid concern of having too much oil pressure?
How much is too much?

... Assume correct level of oil (as reflected on dipstick).

The rule of thumb , not set in concrete, for an automotive engine was ten pounds per 1000 RPM as being acceptable. So at 4,000 RPM you should have around 40 pounds of oil pressure. At least that's what we looked for in a car engine.

Pressure and volume are two different things. A lot of engine builders in the old days always put high volume pumps in high performance car engines. We since learned that the stock oil pump usually put out more than enough oil pressure and volume if the crank and rod clearences were set correctly.

I have hand primed many an oil pump on a new engine using a 1/4" drive drill motor. When the pump primes up the drill motor would almost come to a stop there was so much torque needed to turn the oil pump. Lessoned learned was that high volume and pressure oil pumps take more HP to turn them.
 
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