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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2016 flhtk. The oil pressure worries me. Hot it has 13 pounds at idle. Days the air temp is 70 to 80 it runs about 30 to 32 at 2500 to 3000. It never goes above 36. Maybe 38 psi. On really hot days like 100+. I have seen it down to 20. Funny thing I can pull in clutch and rev it to say 4K and it will go up to 30 and stay there eventually drop back to 26 27. I took it to the shop they tested it with manual gauge said it was within specs. Said my gauge was off some. What do you guys think? Could this be a faulty oil pressure sensor or weak pressure spring, pressure valve or just normal operation. By the way running Mobil 1 20/50. Bike has 23k on it.
 

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I have a 2016 flhtk. The oil pressure worries me. Hot it has 13 pounds at idle. Days the air temp is 70 to 80 it runs about 30 to 32 at 2500 to 3000. It never goes above 36. Maybe 38 psi. On really hot days like 100+. I have seen it down to 20. Funny thing I can pull in clutch and rev it to say 4K and it will go up to 30 and stay there eventually drop back to 26 27. I took it to the shop they tested it with manual gauge said it was within specs. Said my gauge was off some. What do you guys think? Could this be a faulty oil pressure sensor or weak pressure spring, pressure valve or just normal operation. By the way running Mobil 1 20/50. Bike has 23k on it.
So, what are the numbers you're expecting?
 

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Wasn't expecting any exact numbers . It's just the drop in oil pressure at times that concerns me.
It's kind of hard to fully understand your post, but if you have 13 psi at hot idle and 30 at 2500 when hot, then I would not see any reason for concern. As things heat up, it's normal for the pressure to be a little lower in my experience.

If I saw a sudden drop from 32 to 20 then I might be concerned about some debris in the oil or maybe some cavitation.

To me, the only value of gauges is to get information. In this case, the information would be some indication that there may be something going on inside the engine that needs attention. If the first assumption you make when getting this type of information is that the gauge is broken or inaccurate then I would see no purpose for having the gauge.
 

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Put a piece of gorilla tape over the gauge, too much information. Don't worry, be happy. Really, if you didn't have the gauge, you would just be enjoying the ride, not worrying yourself over it.
 

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I assume the reason my post is kind of difficult to understand is caused by the way you view the gauge. As you prolly already know, The Rushmore bikes have a digital pressure gauge that the display screen has to be activated by handle bar control. I flip it on one day and the pressure showed 20 psi at crust g speed It was a extremely hot day. But I had never seen it on 20psi before. Usually 27 or 28 on a real hot day. I guess I'm a little gun shy on oil pressure since I lost an engine in a new z28 after I was told by dealer everything is fine. That was most expensive!!
 

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I guess I'm a little gun shy on oil pressure since I lost an engine in a new z28 after I was told by dealer everything is fine. That was most expensive!!
What year Camaro? I had a 73 Z28 in the mid 70's.. No, not the hot LT1, but a favorite car in memory....
 

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What year Camaro? I had a 73 Z28 in the mid 70's.. No, not the hot LT1, but a favorite car in memory....
I had a '73 Z28 in the early 80's. Wish I'd had enough sense (and cents) to keep it. It had the Rally Sport and LT options, A/C, TH400 transmission with the factory performance torque converter, posi rear end, etc. By '73 the engine was a low compression 350 that produced 245 HP vs the 360 HP version in 1970 but it responded well to upgrades.
 

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I got a newer one a 95 with lt1 engine. I bought it new and it still is like new. Been garage kept and has been driven very little since bout 2000. Just never got around to selling it. Lol. Now I guess I'll just keep it.
 

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I had a '73 Z28 in the early 80's. Wish I'd had enough sense (and cents) to keep it. It had the Rally Sport and LT options, A/C, TH400 transmission with the factory performance torque converter, posi rear end, etc. By '73 the engine was a low compression 350 that produced 245 HP vs the 360 HP version in 1970 but it responded well to upgrades.
I had three friends with 70's.... They were scary fast..... My 73 was a 4 speed, factory AC, with a rear window "blower" defogger ... It also had the RS front bumpers.. the full bumper on the SS was but ugly in my opinion.... My car had been ordered new by a woman, I was the second owner.... Sadly no pics......
 

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Late 60s early 70s. That was the good years! I think my 95 has only 275 hp. It runs pretty good but not like an old muscle car. It is a fun driver.
 

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I assume the reason my post is kind of difficult to understand is caused by the way you view the gauge. As you prolly already know, The Rushmore bikes have a digital pressure gauge that the display screen has to be activated by handle bar control. I flip it on one day and the pressure showed 20 psi at crust g speed It was a extremely hot day. But I had never seen it on 20psi before. Usually 27 or 28 on a real hot day. I guess I'm a little gun shy on oil pressure since I lost an engine in a new z28 after I was told by dealer everything is fine. That was most expensive!!
You are making comparisons on two different types of engines. One has " Babbitt" type bearings and the other roller type bearings. The V-twin has roller bearing on the crank and rod bearings and will have lower oil pressure than a car engine. As the oil gets hot and thins is will decrease in viscosity and you will see lower oil pressure. But not to worry a roller bearing type engine does not need a lot of oil pressure to be happy, unlike a Babbitt engine which requires higher pressure to "float" the crank and rods.
 

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I Wasn't really comparing the two engines. The Harley manual says 32 to 38 pounds at 2k rpm. (If I remember correctly). Running at 2500 to 3 k and seeing 20 psi kind of alarmed me. My z28 runs a constant same number psi at a given rpm. The drop in pressure was my concern. Not the given pounds. But I definitely see your point. And do understand the difference. I really don't want into increase the pressure above factory recommendations. One concern would be premature cam chain tensioner wear due to high pressure. But again that's just my thought. I appreciate your post.
 

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I took it to the shop they tested it with manual gauge said it was within specs. Said my gauge was off some.
This is the main thing I would be concerned about. If someone told me my oil pressure was within specs and my gauge was off some, I'd have to ask them for a little more info.
 

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You got to understand you are dealing with Harley Davidson. Everything is top secret. lol. They said my gauge was off a couple pounds from their test gauge. My last Harley had transmission bearing go down at about 30k. This one has compensator making a racket at 23k and questionable oil pressure readings. The sealed headlight is fogging up , the speedo and tach has moisture in them. ( bike has never seen rain). The master cylinders are leaking at the caps. Harley says this is natural!!! Lol. In 50+ years of riding I never had any problems with Japanese or Italian bikes. My last was a Suzuki Hayabusa. It was going on 30k and did not give a single problem. This bike was abused, mistreated, rode hard and put up wet! I'm currently looking at a BMW R1250RT.
 

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It looks like you know what the solution is. All this is just the price of being in the burly, barrel chested biker dude club. Besides, there can't be more than a handful of adults that actually use the bikes as their sole means of transportation. And there is no way to explain riding a Harley as just being economical (something that can be said about a lot of Japanese or European bikes). They're mostly just expensive toys. So don't leave home without your cell phone.

Sounds like there is no extended warranty, or you would be dealing with the dealer over these issues. You could always find an independent shop that you feel comfortable with, that would probably give you more satisfactory answers to your concerns. Since you don't need the tape, and you know the gauge is off, no reason to worry yourself by activating it. Its like getting a cut on your arm and keep scratching off the scab before it's completely healed. And if you bought the bike used, there is really no way to be 100% sure about the bike's service history before it became your pride and joy. No matter what the P.O. told you.

There's nothing that says you can't replace the sensor or spring yourself. It just might give you some peace of mind. Might find something else going on while doing it. A leaking master cylinder cap, no biggie. Just replace the seal. Pull the bulb out of the headlight housing, it's no longer sealed. Just might be a bad o-ring on the bulb. Quoting the numbers indicates you have the shop manual. You've got to see how easy these things are to work on. All these things can be researched thoroughly online, they have been dealt with countless times. At best you'll get just a handful of answers to this question, with lots of opinions involved too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I bought the bike new and no I did not buy extended warranty , but the checks were done under warranty. Yes I can replace the spring and pressure valve and even the sensor No big deal. The compensator I can also replace. The headlight is a sealed LED unit. Harley wants $600 for a new one and there is no way to service it. The master cylinder caps can be replaced. Harley says they are only good for 2 years. I can probably take the speedo and tach gauge faces off and clean that. But you know I just don't like doing maintenance much anymore. as far as the ride and feel of the Harley. Nothing compares to it. It's not fast nor is it smooth, it's not economical but I didn't buy it for economy. Japanese bike have no soul. Harleys really satisfy. I like a little noise and vibration , make it feel alive and part of the riding experience.
 
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