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Discussion Starter #1
hello everyone...

need some help .. an experienced eye..

i got some seeping behind my rear case.. not sure if its my tappet block gasket or base cylinder gasket... its a stock 95 evo engine..

20,000 miles

i have attached 2 pics to explain where its coming from..the oil pressure switch has been removed to better see the area.. but i comes from back there and works its way past the oil pressure switch ,down to the bottom of the engine.. unfortunately i cleaned up the area hoping to see where it was coming from.. will make it harder to visualize where its coming from on the pics..

any help would be welcome..

thanks
 

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That's a classic Evo problem, so welcome to the club!

I get the same issue on the rear jug, but on the primary side instead. Its a common enough problem and totally random. Some folks get the jugs and cases machined dead flat, but that not cheap. Me I just used a good James base gasket with Hymolar gasket sealant and that's lasted 15 years now.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thats what i thought...

one last question..

kinda up in arms with the james or cometic gaskets..

are they similar in quality?

since i am gonna remove the jugs might as well do all the gaskets from tappet block to heads and rockers ..just wondering if there is a definite advantage from one company to another?

again many thanks on helping fellow rider out ...:)
 

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If you are going to redo the base gaskets, there is a simple procedure to leave the pistons in the cylinders so that you don't have to mess with the rings and cylinders. With only 20,000 on the engine, you shouldn't have to hone or bore, unless you have scoring or ridges. If such is the case and you don't want to seperate pistons/barrels, just lift the barrels up enough to clear the wrist pin and then remove the c-clip. Then push the pin out and everything is intact. Be sure to stuff the crankcase holes with rags so as not to lose the c-clip down the crankcase. Of course, you might want to bore it, do headwork and put in a good cam for more performance!! Have fun.
 

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Good idea on leaving the pistons in... I'll give that a try next time.

As for gaskets, the key word here I quality! And both James & Cometic have quality to burn, so it really comes down to personal preferences. If it helps, have a look at their catalogs and find a full 'top end' set.

Note....... The head and base gaskets often come in a range of thicknesses so you can tweak compression a little bit - I no expert so others can guide you on this. I think it's a trade off between thin, high comp but less stable/reliable and thicker, lower comp (normal compression) more stable.

Cheers
 

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Plus 1 on the James Gaskets...they solved my rocker box leak...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the advice...

will look onto both...

shame i gotta open her up...this will be her first surgery . i have played in the tranny many times..and primary too..those are fun spots

should i switch out the tappet block gaskets ?or leave as is..

that old saying "if it aint broke than don't fix it"
 

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Maybe you should make sure the leak is coming from the base gasket first (on evos, they are generally known to leak there). If that is the case, then you can leave the lifter block gaskets alone, unless you absolutely want to change them. You could get the 12 point 1/4" socket and make sure the bolts are tight. The gaskets are cheap and you will be able to inspect your lifters at the same time. But then it goes on and on...since you will have the lifters out you might as well open the cam chest up and change the cam bearing before it goes south. That bearing is cheap also (7-8 bucks). Use the torrington bearing...B138. Go slow and do it right.
 

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thanks for the advice...

will look onto both...

shame i gotta open her up...this will be her first surgery . i have played in the tranny many times..and primary too..those are fun spots

should i switch out the tappet block gaskets ?or leave as is..

that old saying "if it aint broke than don't fix it"
You're going to have to replace the lifter block gaskets. They are made out of the same crap the base gaskets are made from. They don't come off in one piece.

Word of advice with the lifter blocks, there is a little tool you need to align them when you put them back on. You don't absolutely have to have it, but it cuts down on chances of leaks. It's basically just a bolt that you thread into there and it puts the little oiler hole in the right spot while you put the rest of the bolts in. If that little oiler hole isn't aligned properly, you will have leaks from the lifter blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i will definitley pick up the block alignment tool..

question on the pushrods..

i will reuse the originals.. do i need to worry about TDC when putting everything back together or will the pushrods automatically seat themselves where they need to be.. i know the adjustables need to bleed down for proper adjustment

sorry for all the questions.. the hd manal is good but, i am more a visual type.. and the manual tends to make it sound more complicated than it really is..

thank you
 

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i will definitley pick up the block alignment tool..

question on the pushrods..

i will reuse the originals.. do i need to worry about TDC when putting everything back together or will the pushrods automatically seat themselves where they need to be.. i know the adjustables need to bleed down for proper adjustment

sorry for all the questions.. the hd manal is good but, i am more a visual type.. and the manual tends to make it sound more complicated than it really is..

thank you
Mark your pushrods with some tape and put them back in the same spot they came from: front intake side, front exhaust side, rear intake side, rear exhaust side. Unless they are damaged you should be fine reusing them. Just take an air hose and shoot it down the center to clear out any gunk and what not that may have built up. Wipe them down with some paint thinner also, that should clean them up pretty good. Then just lightly coat them with some engine oil before you put them back in.

I did the same thing with the tappets too. If they have excessive play in them I would replace them. Mine were in pretty good condition so I just reused them. But mark them also.
 

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It is advantageous to replace the stock push rods with adjustable ones. I know it is an added expense, but will pay for themselves later on.
 
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