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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys

well took the dive into opening her up...

i will be honest , i crapped my pants the whole way through...LOL!!

i was expecting a lot more carbon build up compared to some i have seen.. actually pictures i have seen..

do this mean my carb is properly dialed in...

also should i clean up the piston head ?.. i have wiped it down but just a rag..

again guys.. thanks for the help...Once i get over my initial fear , i know it will feel great.....

:woohoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looked like base gasket or tappet block.. very hard to see it was right in the back end.....

once removed ,the base gasket was the one that failed.. im not surprised.. when u take a look at the james gasket..wow what a difference 15 yrs of technology can bring.. gonna do tappet blocks since i'm there..
 

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Halloo. Good job! Small pics on my computer, but the top of the piston does not look too bad. You could pull the piston(s) and clean up the ring lands and de-carbon the pistons, but if you are re-using the rings I would leave it be. Intake port in the front head appears clean also.

C........
 

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What does the inside of your cylinders look like? Are they really smooth? Or can you see the original honing marks?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
very smooth... no oil seems to be going by either..

i am gonna clean them up and coat them with some oil.. put some assembly lube on piston walls before install.. its crazy how much info there is on this subject...when i first looked up the uninstall in my manual it seemed way out of my comfort zone .. but with all the pics and videos out there seemed less complicated.

i honestly expected the worse when i opened her up.. ive been quit anal when it comes to service and cleaning.. so i guess its paid off in the long run(knock on wood)


Gonna slap in a new thunder fire chrome starter, braided oil lines..chrome tappet blocks and and maybe some shiny new pushrod covers.. and gonna get rid of that awful cowbell...


oh ya.. spit shine the crap out of her.. toothbrush and all..
 

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Great stuff mate. It's a piece of cake once you take that first step.

Put some clean bits of garden hose over the cylinder bolts as they help stop damage to the pistons and rings when they lean against them.

If you can try to spring for some adjustable pushrods... They are good!

Sent from my Motorcycle iPad app
 

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Ohhh... That piston top looks fine. You can scrap the chit off with a plastic scrapper or the like, I use a small putty knife ( but I do have to be careful about gouging the top)


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If your cylinders are smooth, I would suggest putting new rings on the pistons and rehoning the cylinders. Mine were about half and half, pretty smooth in some spots but you could still see the honing marks in some other spots. I put new rings on and rehoned them. I noticed an immediate difference when I took the first test ride. I don't know if it was the fresh rings in particular, but everything seemed more crisp, more responsive if that makes any sense.

A ring kit isn't much, and if you have honing stones, or can borrow some from a buddy, it's not difficult to rehone the jugs.
 

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Halloo. Hey, dirty, do you use torque plates when honing the Evo cylinders? All the old Shovels, Pans and Iron-heads were no problem when honing, but the consensus seems to be that not using torque plates on the Evo MIGHT cause problems with ring seating. Angel is my first Evo build (learning a lot about the "Evil") and if I re-ring I am going to have my local shop do the honing...just to be sure. Unless the majority are sure that honing without plates is OK.

C.......
 

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No, I didn't use torque plates; I'm not even totally sure what a torque plate is or how to use it. I just hooked the stones up to the drill, coated the inside of the cylinders with motor oil, clamped the cylinders down, and ran the stones through a couple times. I ran them through through the top and then again through the bottom. It gave me a uniform criss-cross type honing pattern.

I can't speak on whether or not this is was the right or wrong way to do this, I can only say that it worked for me. I've got about 8,000 miles on the top end rebuild without any issue so far.
 

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Halloo. Dirty, torque plates are just a couple of thick...well, plates...that are bolted onto each end of the cylinder and are torqued down to simulate the clamping forces the cylinder is subjected to during actual assembly on the motor. In theory (and in actuality, although how much I don't know) the cylinders distort under a clamping load, much more so than the old Shovels, Pans, etc., because they are aluminum with cast iron sleeves instead of straight iron. Do you use a flex hone or a ball hone?

C........
 

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Ok, well that makes sense. I don't really understand how it would make a difference though, whether the cylinder is under a load or not the honing stone is basically just scuffing the surface of the cylinder; I don't see how tension would affect the scuff. Anyway, I didn't use one.

Oh, I used a flex hone.
 
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