[2wheelrider]

I was dusting off the bike getting ready for a ride and noticed two or three little drops of oil on the trans shift drum cover. upon further investigation I found oil residue between the head and cylinder on the rear cylinder. After a thoroughly cleaning the area (hole bike) I started it to warm it up and look for the leak. Bigger than sheet the head gasket is leaking right at the back of the rear cylinder. sense I have to pull the head I thought I would post a few picks of the project. So soon as I start I will post pics. It's a shame cause I will have to remove the entire motor in two weeks when my 126" mtr gets here. Wish it would have lasted another 2 weeks. OK...off to the shop.

 

[Road King Cole]

Really? You are going to change the head gasket because of a small seepage and your pulling the motor in two weeks anyhow?

Was it really leaking that bad? Didn't sound that bad to me, it would just give it that old skool look for two weeks...

rkc

 

[rbabos]

I believe he has it for sale and wants it right for the new owner ?
Ron

 

[LowRiderCustom]

The head gasket shouldn't leak oil since fuel and air are the only things that enter the combustion chamber. I have a feeling the rocker box gasket is leaking oil which is an easy fix.

 

[fatclassic]

Oil does pass through the head gasket by way of the rocker box drain, back down to the lower end, but I agree , I would really check the rocker box gasket.

 

[2wheelrider]

Man how I wish it were that simple. A rocker box gasket would be so simple. Yes it is the oil drain for the rear jug that is leaking. Thing is I don't want to take a chance on blowing a head gasket. Cometic head gaskets don't do well when oil starts seeping. If I take a chanchand keep riding it and it does blow the job would go from pulling the head, doing a little clean up, installing a new head gasket to... pulling the cylinder for resurfacing (head too) which means...rings re-hone or poss bore which means mo money.

As rbabos said I might be selling this motor if I can get what I'm asking. As it is right now I have been talked into pulling the entire motor out by a good friend of mine. On the promise that I can ride his dyna any time I want lol.
That way I can decide if I am going to keep it and stick it in a dyna frame. If thats the case then I will be installing a .630 cam and new valve springs for the higher lift. Otherwise I will pull both heads, clean both chambers & piston tops of carbon if needed. Put it back together and put it up for sell.

 

[2wheelrider]

OK so heres the bike on the lift only the seat has been removed so far

 

[2wheelrider]

sorry heres the pic

 

[2wheelrider]

Quick disconnect for the crossover gas line. makes things much easier. Specally when your gas tanks full. Also first thing I did was spray the exhaust studs with BP blaster rust solvent.

 

[SLPER]

Quick Connect

Quick disconnect for the crossover gas line. makes things much easier. Specally when your gas tanks full. Also first thing I did was spray the exhaust studs with BP blaster rust solvent.

I installed the quick connect during last build and it makes going back less of a PITA and clean.

Cheers!

 

[2wheelrider]

Striped a allin bolt on the air cleaner so I cut a slot in it and it worked great. Even better than the allens HA
Backing plate came off no problem carb also. The carb is a mikuni 48mm that will be going on the 126 when it gets here. Should do well.

 

[2wheelrider]

First two pics...knock sensor and temp senser for the IST ign...I like Tieing up the wireing over the mtr to the frame, keeps it out of the way.

 

[2wheelrider]

Bought this primary drain plug with a rear earth magnet in the end of it. It's one strong magnet!
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/harleydavidson.php

 

[2wheelrider]

Finally took off my primary cover, clutch,chain and compensator. I used my home made primary locking tool...Very high tech:redrolf: By the way the front drive sprocket and chain adjusting shoe is what comes with the baker DD6 gear set. That shoe has a very steep arc on top due to the large crank sprocket.

 

[2wheelrider]

Heres the rest of the primary removal pics. The clutch hub nut is reverse thread. For those that might not know
I used a pry bar to "gentlly" pry the clutch hub off the shaft as it was boogerd up with red lock-tite.

 

[2wheelrider]

removing the motor

Removed the stator and the oil filter adapter. Also the front stabilizer.Disconnected the oil lines, motor mount bolts.

 

[2wheelrider]

Last post

Lucklly I have a lift so I was able to lift the motor out alone. Also found that I have oil weeping from somewere so I'll be looking for that and doing a good cleaning wile I wait for the new motor to show up. Also I will be replaceing the main shaft seal and quad seal behind the main drive pully on the trans. But thats another story...Thanks for looking.

 

[Dyna Ryda]

Where did you get the QD for the fuel crossover?

BTW, I like your hi-tech primary locking tool, I use a peice of hi-tech wood

 

[DURWOOD]

I bought my quick disconnect off ebay,buy 2, then draining the tank is a breeze.

 

[2wheelrider]

here ya go! http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=harley+crossover+disconnect