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Oil Change...

2K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  Maj 
#1 ·
I changed all the oils (Engine, Trans., & Primary) in my '02 FXDL today. I decided to change it at 500 miles rather than wait until the required 1000 mile service.
I must say... What a Pain! Don't get me wrong, I love doing stuff like this, but having to lie on the floor to get to the drain plugs (engine & tranny) sucks! I have got to get a lift before the next time.
Also I tried to keep the mess down to a minimum when I removed the oil filter, but...
Ended up having to wash the whole thing, but cleanliness is next to godliness!
 
#2 ·
I know what you are saying. No matter what I have tried, I always make a mess when changing the oil filter. I guess I still don't understand why H.D. has seperate oils for each component. Maybe I've owned too many Japanese bikes in the past where you change the engine oil and your done. One good thing about it, at least H.D. gives us dipsticks rather than a site glass.
 
#3 ·
site glass

lol...thats funny, I started on a vstar and being a short guy,(5'6") i always had "fun" trying ta hold the bike uprite and level with my right hand, while balanceing on my left hand and knee tryin to read that DAMN siteglass.....too funny...was it half full, full full, 1/4 full ...aw **** my arms tired, gotta try it again....lol
 
#4 ·
I guess I may be a little messy when I'm oil changing myself. But I can be a little neater when I try hard. There are things that you can buy that make changing the filter a little cleaner that catches the oil filter oil as you change it and routes it to catch pan. I guess I'm too cheep to ever buy one so I just use heavy aluminum foil to make me a deversion scoop. What ever works best for you is the way to go but you can get better at neatness with experience if you try hard enough. I have found that on a lift more stuff is in the way than just getting down on the ground.

Later,
 
#6 ·
Flash, here's a tip for a very clean oil change.
Simply punch a small vent hole in the top or 12 o’clock position with an awl or sharp punch and put a piece of friction tape over the hole (actually any sticky tape will work) then place a drip pan underneath and using the same tool punch two drip holes in the bottom or 6 o’clock position of the filter and remove the vent hole tape and let it drip for a couple of hours or overnight. You see very little oil in the filter equals very little spill when you remove it. I’ve tried this a couple of times. Hope it works for you.
 
#8 ·
Oil change

I own a road glide with lower fairings, and I agree the oil filter change is a messy job. After loosening the filter so you can turn it by hand. Take a small plastic bag like the one you get at the supermarket and slide it over the fiter. When you unscrew the filter the rest of the way the plastic bag catches the oil and filter, and keeps the oil off your hands. Just make sure you don't do this when the bike is too hot. I usually drain the pan first, replace the drain plug and by then the motor is cool enough.
 
#9 ·
Dawg, that's a handy little item, but kind of pricy for a piece of plastic. I've used an old Clorox bottle cut out to make a funnel thru the spout and it works. A neighbor of mine used aluminum foil for a trap and funnel and he swears by it. I kind of like the plastic bag idea, but I've never tried it.
 
#12 ·
I've had decent results using this method. Take the box the filter came in, open both ends, flatten it, fold into a slight "V" shape along the seams and slide it directly underneath the filter up against the filter mount. When you loosen the filter the "V" shape of the box channels the oil downhill to your waiting catch pan. Some oil will probably drip on the frame tube but thats way easier to wipe up than all the nooks and crannies of the front motor mount. You could probably fashion a similar device out of sheet plastic that would extend beyond the frame for truly no-mess results. This works for Evos but I'm guessing the TCs are the same.
 
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