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oil change question

4153 Views 34 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  spoon
I was trying to change the oil in my 99 Ultra CAlssic today and a strange thing happened. When I removed the drain plug and filter only a couple of quarts or less of oil drained out. Im positive it was nearly full when I started and there is still oil on the dipstick indicating that there is still oil in the pan. So why won't the rest of the oil drain out? Is there another drain plug somewhere? I removed the one on the shifter side at the bottom of the trans cover I believe it is. First time this has happened. Thanks.
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the most important of which was to get yourself your own service manual.
Why a service manual? It's not an engine overhaul; it's a simple oil change. All this stuff is also in the Owner's Manual, which stays with the bike - at least it does with mine.
Why a service manual? It's not an engine overhaul; it's a simple oil change. All this stuff is also in the Owner's Manual, which stays with the bike - at least it does with mine.
Yes, a simple oil change that spoon had to be lead through. Any other maintenance should not be instructed on this or any other forum when all the answers are in the manual.
Quote:
1. Remove the oil dip stick in the front of the motor.Right side, next to trans side cover
2. Pour 2 Quarts of new oil in the motor. Try three
3. Start engine for ~45 secs to allow oil to fully circulate so you can add the rest of the oil.
4. Add another 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 Quartsskip this unnecessary step
5. Wait for about a minute and check the level
6. If it is low add more oil Until the dip stick reads full WHEN THE BIKE IS LEVEL.on the kickstand
7. Take the bike for a 3-4 mile run.
8. When you return let it sit for a few minutes and then check the oil level on the dipstick and add as necessary until the level reads full.halfway between hot and cold eliminates most blowby and allows for error....never over fill
9. WRITE DOWN how much oil you used for YOUR MOTOR (there is as much as 3/4 of a bottle of oil differences in oil amounts from one motor to another)????!!!! on a piece of paper and place it where you can find it the next time you need to change your oil.
10. Place newspaper under the bike for the next 24 hours to locate any leaks
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spoon
I think most of us were saying the same thing you have a lot of money invested in your bike. If you plan on doing things you are not sure about get a service manual. And be carefull not to get over your head. I have been turning wrenches for over 35 years and some things I take my bike out to have done. I do this for a couple of reasons time, running into something I did not plan on ect. I do not think there is to much mechanicaly I cannot fiqure out with the right info ie service manual but like I tell my auto customers sometimes it is better to let someone who messes with them day in and out to work on them. May need special tools parts you may of not counted on ect. Good luck with everything and you will get some good advice on here.
My friends call me GOBB (grouchy old biker bast**d) but this post string has certainly made me smile. Ya'll have been so nice to the dude and the perfect inspiration for someone like me to back off and mellow out. Congrats to all of you for your restraint; a bit of burning embers but no real (though justified) flaming. I salute all of you. :clap::clap:

Spoon? :spank::spank::spank: Get a service manual. The more you use it the more informative you become.


Peace
Do Not Use Gear Oil In Your Primary!!!!! Use Engine Oil , Trans Fluid Or H-d Formula +

That really should be amended to say don't use heavy duty hypoid or differential gear lube in your primary. And never use any oils with friction modifiers (which many hypoid gear oils contain). What I was referring to is motorcycle gear lube for wet clutches...I run 80w Golden Spectro in mine...have run motor oil (10-40), Type X, the old HD chaincase lubricant....no real difference in any of them as far as I am concerned.

10-40w motor oil is about the same viscosity as an 80w gear oil...

DISCLAIMER; Always refer to your service manual for specific model recommendations and service procedures.
Spoon - listen up

well dam, dude. two thoughts: 1) you really need the service manual, and 2) should you be doing your own wrenching, really?

o, good gawd. yes. Go to the Engine Oils and Lubrication Forum and never, never ask this again.

pls see first comment with emphasis on item 2).

good luck.
Don't let these guys get you down Spoonman -

Winter's on its way, so why not take some of that down time to learn a bit of wrenching on your own?

Here's what you do -

First - get $3,000 bucks. Don't whine, you own a Harley so you should already be used to it.

Second - head to Sears and purchase one of those all-inclusive tool sets with the sockets, ratchets, Allen-heads, etc. Don't forget the 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches and hex drive bits. All SAE dude, forget metric. It's a freaking HARLEY!!

Third - head to your local HD shop and purchase a factory service manual and a wiring manual for your bike.

Forth - here's where the fun begins: Get your new tools and books together in your garage and TAKE YOUR BIKE COMPLETELY APART, bolt by bolt, all the way down to removing the engine from the frame.

Fifth - put it back together.

Nothing like hands-on experience to make a real wrench out of you.

If you foul up, you'll have to figure out, on your own, how to fix it.

Ah, what fun!! :hystria:

Best of luck,

C.W.
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That really should be amended to say don't use heavy duty hypoid or differential gear lube in your primary. And never use any oils with friction modifiers (which many hypoid gear oils contain). What I was referring to is motorcycle gear lube for wet clutches...I run 80w Golden Spectro in mine...have run motor oil (10-40), Type X, the old HD chaincase lubricant....no real difference in any of them as far as I am concerned.

10-40w motor oil is about the same viscosity as an 80w gear oil...

DISCLAIMER; Always refer to your service manual for specific model recommendations and service procedures.



GOOD INFO!!!!!! SAMF
...First -
:​
Forth - here's where the fun begins: Get your new tools and books together in your garage and TAKE YOUR BIKE COMPLETELY APART, bolt by bolt, all the way down to removing the engine from the frame.

Fifth - put it back together.
And that should get you done just in time to start arguing about the NEXT presidential election!! awrite!:clap:
service manual

In reading through this thread I thouhgt I would go ahead and order a service manual. I also thought that I would have no need to bother you guys here, so I went to google and typed, harley service manual, but it seems I was given to many choices. It also kept kicking me to a repair manual when I specifically typed servicemanual. Are these the same books. I also seemed to find many different names in the service and repair manual search.

So these questions I have. What is the name of the book I should get HD, Haynes. ?????????? What book service repair.????????? Can someone suggest a site I can go to to order one of these books. Thanks again

The repair manual seemed to have a category for oil, is this a good book to have above just the service manual?
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I like the factory one also clymer.( repair ) Just my 2 cents.
I like the factory book too. Here's another hint-
I always fill vertical oil filters before I install em. Even though the Harley filters are horizontal, I still fill em about half full, and can spin em on without losin any oil. Saves the engine havin to pump the filter completely full when you first start it. :)
Just go to your dealer asked for the service manual for your bike they will or should have it right there and it will be about $60.
Well it turns out that I didn't drain the tranny after all. I drained the primary by mistake first. :) So now I've done all 3. Hopefully by the time I need to change them again I'll remember whats where. I know, get a service manual. I heard y'all. Thanks again.
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