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2010 Harley Street Glide
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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been asked to death...
2010 SG 96" stock stage 1 with SE backing plate and SE slip-on muffler

I just changed the factory air cleaner to the SE air cleaner about a month ago.
I run my oil full when checked hot...
20,000 km on bike.
1) How can I tell if it needs umbrella valve replacement or not?

2) Should it be lower on the dipstick? I like having it full to cool the engine down better.
 

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that motor doesnt have umbrella's,,,, if its slinging oil,, you need a breather kit,,, it fits between the rocker arms,,, they need replaced periodically.,,, on the older ones,,its an upgrade...
 

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2010 Harley Street Glide
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Discussion Starter #4
that motor doesnt have umbrella's,,,, if its slinging oil,, you need a breather kit,,, it fits between the rocker arms,,, they need replaced periodically.,,, on the older ones,,its an upgrade...
Similar to umbrella valves on EVOs.
Do you have oil carry over out the breathers into the filter?
I thinks so. Oil in the bottom of the filter dripping down the right side on to the cam chest/oil pump cover
 

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I know this has been asked to death...
2010 SG 96" stock stage 1 with SE backing plate and SE slip-on muffler

I just changed the factory air cleaner to the SE air cleaner about a month ago.
I run my oil full when checked hot...
20,000 km on bike.
1) How can I tell if it needs umbrella valve replacement or not?

2) Should it be lower on the dipstick? I like having it full to cool the engine down better.

Oil level should make no difference.

The breather valves are one way valves. Easy check is to drain the oil with the oil cap on tight. The oil should just dribble out, and then run full on when you open the oil cap.

Past that, the valves get old and need replacing over time. And as the engine wears it can have more blow by than the valves can handle. The system is very limited as designed. One of the things some of us do is to drill the drain holes in the rocker supports to a larger size. So they are able to return more oil to the cases. We also block off the passages to the air box and redirect the vents to the rear frame rail with some hose and nipples.

 

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2010 Harley Street Glide
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Discussion Starter #8
I have done them on my old sportster. The rear rocker cover was always a pain.
Do I need any special tools to get the rear rocker apart AND out?
I think I remember reading somewhere that the rear is even a bigger pain than my old rigid sporty.
Is there a special tool to get at the rear Rocker box.
Also, If I ever wanted to remove the entire rocker box is there a tool that will help for that?
 

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2010 Harley Street Glide
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Discussion Starter #9
Oil level should make no difference.

The breather valves are one way valves. Easy check is to drain the oil with the oil cap on tight. The oil should just dribble out, and then run full on when you open the oil cap.

Past that, the valves get old and need replacing over time. And as the engine wears it can have more blow by than the valves can handle. The system is very limited as designed. One of the things some of us do is to drill the drain holes in the rocker supports to a larger size. So they are able to return more oil to the cases. We also block off the passages to the air box and redirect the vents to the rear frame rail with some hose and nipples.

Yes I also had an external catch can on my sporty.
I do want to so that. I ha e the SE backing plate so I would have to mod the air cleaner backing plate stand offs.
I was thinking of doing the DK customs mod even before I noticed the oil.. The one thing that was holding me back was I wanted to plug the oil passages in the plate with a drill and tap using a pair of
12 x24 set screws in the holes as done in the DK customs video rather than silicone. A am paranoid that the silicone may come out and get into the intake body. However,can't find 12x24 set screws anywhere in my local fastener stores or Home depot etc...
How have others done them with an SE backing plate?
 

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This is a repair kit. I believe it is for the original cast type breather assy. I have a couple of them and haven't bothered to see if it fits the early and late style.
None of the parts from the early style carry over to the late style.

If anyone wants to upgrade from early style to the late style, you need to pick up the shorter late style screws also. If not, then a few small washers or spacers should make up the difference. But then nobody would be able to see the new additions to your rat bike.

Like has been said, they need to be replaced from time to time. There is no line for them in the maintenance schedule. They're like any other rubber piece on the bike. You got your 10 years of use out of them. Just part of keeping the bike on the road.
 

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Yes I also had an external catch can on my sporty.
I do want to so that. I ha e the SE backing plate so I would have to mod the air cleaner backing plate stand offs.
I was thinking of doing the DK customs mod even before I noticed the oil.. The one thing that was holding me back was I wanted to plug the oil passages in the plate with a drill and tap using a pair of
12 x24 set screws in the holes as done in the DK customs video rather than silicone. A am paranoid that the silicone may come out and get into the intake body. However,can't find 12x24 set screws anywhere in my local fastener stores or Home depot etc...
How have others done them with an SE backing plate?
You might try here for the set screws. Don't know how much they charge for shipping. 12-24 x 1/4 Socket Set Screw Cup Point Alloy
 

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Discussion Starter #12
None of the parts from the early style carry over to the late style.

If anyone wants to upgrade from early style to the late style, you need to pick up the shorter late style screws also. If not, then a few small washers or spacers should make up the difference. But then nobody would be able to see the new additions to your rat bike.

Like has been said, they need to be replaced from time to time. There is no line for them in the maintenance schedule. They're like any other rubber piece on the bike. You got your 10 years of use out of them. Just part of keeping the bike on the road.
Yes, I know things wear out. I have only had this bike one season. Bought it last spring with 10,000 km on it. Are the later style breathers in my 2010 or are they the older aluminium style?
 

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Yes I also had an external catch can on my sporty.
I do want to so that. I ha e the SE backing plate so I would have to mod the air cleaner backing plate stand offs.
I was thinking of doing the DK customs mod even before I noticed the oil.. The one thing that was holding me back was I wanted to plug the oil passages in the plate with a drill and tap using a pair of
12 x24 set screws in the holes as done in the DK customs video rather than silicone. A am paranoid that the silicone may come out and get into the intake body. However,can't find 12x24 set screws anywhere in my local fastener stores or Home depot etc...
How have others done them with an SE backing plate?
Just plum it and run the hose down the frame beside the fuel overflow hose. Let the drips hit the pike. Costs like $7.

Why catch the oil, you plan on pouring it back in?
 

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I looked up 2010 and they had the earlier style pictured in the exploded diagram. I looked up 2015 and they had the later style. I didn't look up every year because they think I'm some sort of dealer trying to steal their information (Just before locking me out for a week or a month).. So I don't know what year was the changeover. That said, the kit for the new style has a part no. of 17025-03A. And the screws are now #4400. The part number for the 2010 showed that it had been superseded to the same part number.

Here is a link, you can look all you want until they kick you out too.

The newer style is a lot cleaner design. You could always put in a road draft tube like everyone is suggesting. Before doing anything, at least pop off the top cover of the easier rocker box to see what you have. They look nothing alike. The rear rocker is no big deal. Just go piece by piece.

Don't think you are working on an Ironhead Sportster. They make those ratcheting allen wrenches just for the top cover screws, or you could just grind a little off of a regular allen wrench, and take your time. I never had a problem using a regular wrench, but I had more patience when I was younger. Just work on one layer at a time. Don't think you will remove a screw or 2 and take the whole thing off at once.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just plum it and run the hose down the frame beside the fuel overflow hose. Let the drips hit the pike. Costs like $7.

Why catch the oil, you plan on pouring it back in?
I am going to connect it but want a better option for plugging the breather holes in the backing plate.
Nope,lol I just don't want it on the ground or spraying on my bike in the wind. Easy enough to drain once in a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I looked up 2010 and they had the earlier style pictured in the exploded diagram. I looked up 2015 and they had the later style. I didn't look up every year because they think I'm some sort of dealer trying to steal their information (Just before locking me out for a week or a month).. So I don't know what year was the changeover. That said, the kit for the new style has a part no. of 17025-03A. And the screws are now #4400. The part number for the 2010 showed that it had been superseded to the same part number.

Here is a link, you can look all you want until they kick you out too.

The newer style is a lot cleaner design. You could always put in a road draft tube like everyone is suggesting. Before doing anything, at least pop off the top cover of the easier rocker box to see what you have. They look nothing alike. The rear rocker is no big deal. Just go piece by piece.

Don't think you are working on an Ironhead Sportster. They make those ratcheting allen wrenches just for the top cover screws, or you could just grind a little off of a regular allen wrench, and take your time. I never had a problem using a regular wrench, but I had more patience when I was younger. Just work on one layer at a time. Don't think you will remove a screw or 2 and take the whole thing off at once.
Cool thanks for checking that
 

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As far as plugging the holes in the backing plate… all you need to do is measure that hole diameter and look up what size tap will fit.Then just Red Loctite the appropriate size set screw. It's not hard at all.
 

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When I got my bike, it had the old style SE breather setup with hoses going everywhere. They were dry rotting and needed replacement. That would have been easy to just plumb to go out back and dump on the ground. Instead, I switched to the newer style where all the action is enclosed within the backing plate. I want to say that at the same time, I rehabbed the stock head breathers. I did have an older solid mount FX where I ran a road draft tube, no problems with that setup either. I switched to the newer style stamped steel breathers sometime later, just something that was coming sooner or later. It's been over 10 years now, so maybe I'm due for a refresh. I've have had no problems with the current setup

If you have oil going into the A/C, it would be better to clear up the underlying problem than to just try and put the residue somewhere else. That could be right on your rear tire. There are little bottles that could receive the spooge, but you can't forget that it's there.
 

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When I got my bike, it had the old style SE breather setup with hoses going everywhere. They were dry rotting and needed replacement. That would have been easy to just plumb to go out back and dump on the ground. Instead, I switched to the newer style where all the action is enclosed within the backing plate. I want to say that at the same time, I rehabbed the stock head breathers. I did have an older solid mount FX where I ran a road draft tube, no problems with that setup either. I switched to the newer style stamped steel breathers sometime later, just something that was coming sooner or later. It's been over 10 years now, so maybe I'm due for a refresh. I've have had no problems with the current setup

If you have oil going into the A/C, it would be better to clear up the underlying problem than to just try and put the residue somewhere else. That could be right on your rear tire. There are little bottles that could receive the spooge, but you can't forget that it's there.
Oil carry over is not something that can be completely eliminated. Under some conditions, like long high speed runs on the slab, the breather separaters are going to fill up and it will push a little oil out the breathers. You can make it better, but you can't stop it.

As for oil on the tire, please. How can an occasional drop of oil cause any difficulty with the purchase on that rear tire? There was a time when Harley's sprayed oil on the rear chain any time the motor was running. Never heard of anyone loosing purchase and wrecking from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Time for external breathers. So how can you tell what is an acceptable amount and what is too much.
 
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