[TIMINATOR]

Your dyno guy may have one of the few dynos that aren't "happy". The cam is small for that build, and the T-Body is un necessary until 115-120 Hp, but it also won't help you get there if the cam is that small. Crossbacks aren't my favorite either. Big injectors won't make HP unless the engine needs them. Hydraulic tensioners don't make HP by themselves either.
Wife's 95" at 9.8 comp. 251 cam, 2 into1 V&Hs, ported stock heads with good valve job and bored (.048") stock t-body and ported manifold made 94 HP and 102 Tq. on my very stingy dyno with a Phoenix,AZ. tune (it gets really hot here, as in 117 deg today July 5 th).
Try (Borrow?) an 251 SE cam. I am not a fan of the Feulings at all, we remove more than our share of them and use either SE or Redshift cams with better results. Never had anybody want their old cam put back in the engine. The tuner could easily be up to 5-7 HP right there. Some tuners are poop, even ones with a lot of advertising! So are some dyno tuner guys, but even if he is good and the box won't let him do what needs to be done, then there's only so much you're gonna get.
As far as; "are you satisfied with it?" I believe if you were, we wouldn't be having this conversation. TIMINATOR

 

[TIMINATOR]

There are dynos that are calibrated and correct, and then there are dynos that read higher than they should, we refer to them as "happy" dynos here. In the Phx,Az. area you can see a spread of about 15+ HP on a 120 HP build. Mine and 3 of the local dealers that have "Dyno Days" HP Shootouts are within 1-2 HP at the lower level and are considered as conservative, or accurate, depending on your view point. The "Bar Braggers" use the other indys that post big numbers for their "Bragging Rights" customers, but those guys never go to the track or the Shootouts either. Around here in Phoenix, when discussing builds and HP the first question asked is "on whose dyno?" At that point you can decide whether to stop listening....
There are about a dozen common ways to trick an accurate dyno into reading high, or low, whichever you like. I'm not going to get into that because I don't want to educate the "happy dyno" owners with ideas that they didn't think of.
Bottom line. Find a reputable dyno guy, or try others just for a couple of pulls and see if the results are comparable. Asking a lot of questions of the really fast guys in your area, (you know the guys that race), will get you a start. If a fast guy giggles when you ask about a certain shop that has a dyno, you probably have a good start on an answer.
When discussing builds or dyno numbers I tell my customers " I'm not going to tell you what you want to hear, but I will tell you what you need to know." TIMINATOR

 

[TIMINATOR]

I have read and agree also about the Dyno Jet deal. Since HP is a derived/computed number to a "standard" that was first used in the cowboy days, what does any of that matter? If the industry standard is the Dyno Jet, and all dynos relate in some way to cowboy/ "average" horse, none of how we got here matters. We are here, and use what has come before us to come up with easily comparable numbers.
If there are any (and I'm sure there are) gun guys here, the stupidest contrived "standard" is bullet energy. It factors in gravity to the energy formula! Really! If you measure the energy from 10ft. in front of the barrel how far has the bullet "dropped?" How much work has gravity done? Since on any distance shot you have to aim high to offset the bullet drop, isn't gravity working against you in the uphill part of the bullets arc? The lbs/ft bullet energy thing is entirely stupid on its first look. At the published numbers even a .357 should knock down even a reasonably sized shooter with recoil. A proper way to estimate bullet energy would be to have a suspended one pound weight from a nearly frictionless pivot, with a linear scale behind it and use a high speed camera to see how far the one pound weight moved. In a totally inelastic collision and near frictionless pivot, ft.lbs can be read off of how far the weight moved. I've tried this many times through the years and the accepted standard is waaaay off. But it is the standard and has been for many, many years, so it is what we use. Same deal. It doesn't matter how we measure, as long as we all use the same standard.
Sorry for the long winded explanation, but I hope it sheds some light on the situation at hand.
Bottom line: only Dyno Jet numbers are relevant to other Dyno Jet numbers. Super Flow numbers are different and should be only referenced to other Super Flow numbers.
Pat Hale came up with the Quarter Junior dragstrip program about 30 years ago to predict quarter mile ET and MPH from dyno numbers. It was very accurate when I had an engine and chassis dyno for cars. I can't use it any more because my copy is on a "floppy disc"!!!! I believe he had a bike version too, but have never used it. The dragstrip doesn't lie. HP can be computed from ET and MPH numbers because you have a known weight that you moved a known distance in a known time. ET can be easily changed by gearing, clutch drop RPM, and shift points, while Trap speed is more of a Horsepower indicator, assuming constant co-efficient of drag (don't sit up on one pass and crouch on the next).
Again, sorry about the length of the post. Knowledge is power. TIMINATOR