Here's the dyno sheetPosting your dyno sheet would be most helpful. There are differences in the systems used by tuners, STD or SAE.
Plus, not all dyno tuners are created equal. Some suck and some are very good.
Before you start piecing together a build with parts chosen out of the blue, stop. Decide what you want the end product to do and what is important to you. How are you going to ride, what RPM you want run the engine, etc. The cam is going be what determines the power band. The head ports will complement the cam and can extend the power in the upper RPM range of the power band. The proper compression will help extract the best efficiency of the combination. But I would never start with, "Hmm, I have these pistons, let's figure out what cam I can run with them." That's ass backward.
Start with a realistic goal, choose cam and head work with the goal in mind, THEN select compression. And don't forget the tune which can make or ruin the whole build.
edit: and you can enhance or compromise the build with the right or wrong exhaust
If 110/100 was your goal then you should have been seeking advice to reach that goal.One last bit of advise since it's obvious you want a good running bike but don't have the experience to choose a combination of parts that will work together. Pick a shop with proven record of customer satisfaction and let them know what your goal is for your scoot. If the parts you have now and the other stuff you think you want (pipes, throttle body, etc.) aren't going to work well with XYZ heads, it's best to find out before you spend a lot more $$ and come back here, or the other forum wanting to how to fix it. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Best way to do that is with the help of a good shop that has some skin in the game because you went with their recommendations.
This!! @gree: Nails it.There are dynos that are calibrated and correct, and then there are dynos that read higher than they should, we refer to them as "happy" dynos here. In the Phx,Az. area you can see a spread of about 15+ HP on a 120 HP build. Mine and 3 of the local dealers that have "Dyno Days" HP Shootouts are within 1-2 HP at the lower level and are considered as conservative, or accurate, depending on your view point. The "Bar Braggers" use the other indys that post big numbers for their "Bragging Rights" customers, but those guys never go to the track or the Shootouts either. Around here in Phoenix, when discussing builds and HP the first question asked is "on whose dyno?" At that point you can decide whether to stop listening....
There are about a dozen common ways to trick an accurate dyno into reading high, or low, whichever you like. I'm not going to get into that because I don't want to educate the "happy dyno" owners with ideas that they didn't think of.
Bottom line. Find a reputable dyno guy, or try others just for a couple of pulls and see if the results are comparable. Asking a lot of questions of the really fast guys in your area, (you know the guys that race), will get you a start. If a fast guy giggles when you ask about a certain shop that has a dyno, you probably have a good start on an answer.
When discussing builds or dyno numbers I tell my customers " I'm not going to tell you what you want to hear, but I will tell you what you need to know." TIMINATOR
Me too.agreed with the last 2 posts
With a flat top piston at 98" and 79cc head he is at an honest 10:1 and the cam has a late 46 intake closing. Proper timing settings and there would be no timing pulled.What are you running for fuel? At 10.6 I suspect it has a lot of spark backed out to control detonation. And as you back the spark down the horse power follows.
