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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Any one having some clue about this noise. The same noise even with the clutch engaged and transmission in gear so it´s not coming from the transmission. The compensator is a new screamin eagle.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
What model and year bike?

Why are you running the engine with the outer primary cover removed?
Streetglide 2010 with S&S 110 cu" kit
Running without the cover to see how the chain is running and causing this sound. It´s the same noise with the cover on.
 

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1) take that POS tensioner out of there and see what it sounds like with the oem tensioner. I think you have a rough idle that is causing the chain to slap the tensioner down on its stop.

2) While the chain is loose, check the run out on the sprocket shaft. And make sure the comp bolt has not backed out.

With the oem tensioner, you can tie it down with a wire tie, then roll the motor through by hand. If you can feel the top of the chain go from snug to loose, its going to make noise and wear out parts.

With a 110 you should be running a shim under the comp spring pack to add some pressure.
And if you have more than .006 runout, you need to fix the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1) take that POS tensioner out of there and see what it sounds like with the oem tensioner. I think you have a rough idle that is causing the chain to slap the tensioner down on its stop.

2) While the chain is loose, check the run out on the sprocket shaft. And make sure the comp bolt has not backed out.

With the oem tensioner, you can tie it down with a wire tie, then roll the motor through by hand. If you can feel the top of the chain go from snug to loose, its going to make noise and wear out parts.

With a 110 you should be running a shim under the comp spring pack to add some pressure.
And if you have more than .006 runout, you need to fix the crank.
1) POS is already taken away and in the second video is a manual tensioner installed and it still make that noise.
2) Comp bolt is Okey
3) I need to check the run out before I add shim. It´s not easy to check the run out on the comp side with the splines going all the way out on the shaft.
 

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Any one having some clue about this noise. The same noise even with the clutch engaged and transmission in gear so it´s not coming from the transmission. The compensator is a new screamin eagle.

Hi, You might want to check the alignment of the clutch basket to the compensator. Next i would check the teeth on the clutch basket. I would definitely get rid of the tensioner. If you can get the baker attitude adjuster.
Inspect the chain for wear spots (inside and out). If the alignment is good and the inspections are ok then i bet the baker fixes it.




 

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I watch the video again and you have to much slack in the chain. use the shims that come with that tensioner. I think the spec is 5/8 of an inch from the chain(pulled up towards the top of the primary, see youtube).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I watch the video again and you have to much slack in the chain. use the shims that come with that tensioner. I think the spec is 5/8 of an inch from the chain(pulled up towards the top of the primary, see youtube).
Measure for the 1/2” from the bottom of the SHOE to the top of the guideplate. If this measurement is too loose, you will need to add a shim under the springs I had like 3/8" so no need to add a shim.
I have The Screamin' Eagle Manual Primary Chain Tension Adjuster installed in the video with the cover on and same sound. It is adjusted on the tightest spot to the minimum play for a cold chain
 

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lose that piece of junk haden tensioner,,, the chain ztretches over time and miles,, the haden cant keep up,,, its a pain to add shims,,, the stock adjuster,,, pop the inspection cover off,, back off the screw,,, move the shoe assembly,, tighten the nut
.. done. i found it better to run the chain on the loose side,,,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
1) take that POS tensioner out of there and see what it sounds like with the oem tensioner. I think you have a rough idle that is causing the chain to slap the tensioner down on its stop.

2) While the chain is loose, check the run out on the sprocket shaft. And make sure the comp bolt has not backed out.

With the oem tensioner, you can tie it down with a wire tie, then roll the motor through by hand. If you can feel the top of the chain go from snug to loose, its going to make noise and wear out parts.

With a 110 you should be running a shim under the comp spring pack to add some pressure.
And if you have more than .006 runout, you need to fix the crank.
The sprocket shaft have a run out of 0.010 measured on the top of the splines close to the end of the shaft.
 

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The sprocket shaft have a run out of 0.010 measured on the top of the splines close to the end of the shaft.
You sir, need some crank work. Either send it off to dark horse and see what they will charge to set it right, or step up to an S&S crank.

10 is going to eat on everything in that chain case.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found this in the front cylinder. May bee it could be the source to the noise and ruff idle,
The grooves are only on the pushrod side
 

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I found this in the front cylinder. May bee it could be the source to the noise and ruff idle,
The grooves are only on the pushrod side
Can be an out of round jug, or can be a ring issue.

If the rings are still on the piston, take some photos of them. Look at the position of the oil wiper gaps. Then measure the fit in the piston groves with a feeler. After that check that they were installed correct side up.

You'll need to get the jug into a set of plates to see if its still round.
 

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You'll need to get the jug into a set of plates to see if its still round.
Do the jugs need to be in the plates to check ring gaps?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Do the jugs need to be in the plates to check ring gaps?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
If you are setting them to minimums, then yes.

Most rings ship today with so much gap you can barely make the maximum gap. Generally to get tight gaps, you have to order oversized rings.
 

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Nothing jumping out at me there. Really just too much carnage to say anything in particular caused it. Way too much carbon build up for that amount of mileage, and that could be a ring or cylinder issue. But could be from a lot of other things too.

By any chance did you keep a build sheet? Ring gaps piston clearance ect.
 

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Deleted question.

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