[Rounderz]

While rebuilding eninge I put in a new front motor mount.2001 FLHR When it came to to assemble top end, I couldn't get some bolts in, in the rear. This is my second time, and I took the top end out in the frame. Couldn't ge the rocker arm support bolts in, and one of the rocker cover bolts. Ended up screwing around with removing and then loosen mount.

My theory is new mount raised it it a little. Come back in a few miles and will be lower.

 

[Thermodyne]

New isolators will raise the engine a little.

The rear mounts also have an off center shaft hole. If you install them with the off set orientated high/rear, it will raise the motor enough to sometimes cause issues.

 

[Rounderz]

Does the manual mention anything about rubber isolators on pivot shaft being off set? I didn't notice they were

 

[gb1500]

prob need to do in sequence...you can take out the fr mount ....drop eng down with floor jack...then install rockker covers..if no room...but you need to check the top pivot arm setting(engine side to side lean) also... if thats an issue(with new rear mounts)...the rear mounts can be a buggar and also need the floor jack there to shift/lift around the alignment...id start with the rear mounts and let relax ...then do the rest of em

 

[Thermodyne]

Does the manual mention anything about rubber isolators on pivot shaft being off set? I didn't notice they were

Not really. Mounting the hole high and to the front is the only photo I've ever found.

And I find a lot of them low and front. I suspect techs did this to get room as the scooters were serviced.

Pulling the isolators and letting the trans drop down onto the shaft makes life easier on that rear rocker box.

 

[Rounderz]

Pulling the isolators and letting the trans drop down onto the shaft makes life easier on that rear rocker box.

I am confused, you mentioned somethinbg similar before. You would have to remove the pivot shaft, to pull out those bushings/isolators. Thats a bit of work too.

 

[Thermodyne]

I am confused, you mentioned somethinbg similar before. You would have to remove the pivot shaft, to pull out those bushings/isolators. Thats a bit of work too.

No, just take the nuts off, support the trans and pull them out. Easy peasy if your frame has bolt on end caps for both sides. If yours only has the bolt on cap on the left, then you pull that iso, tap the shaft to the left, shove the trans to the left, and reach in from behind to pull the right iso.

Heres the photo I have from an old manual. It shows high to the front.

These manuals we have now are amalgamated, and to make it all fit in the space available, some stuff got left out. I try to make them work up and to the front. But have had clearance issues with new style powertrains in old frames and turned them to forward and down.

 

[Rounderz]

I am thinking it will settle in some miles??????

 

[Stovebolt 55]

The isolators on my 07 have a notch in them which the manual says to set at between 11 and 12 oclock the picture shown in the above post shows a hole on the outer face at about that same position with the shaft up high.

 

[Rounderz]

If I remember right then,there is only one way to go cause that notch has to fit. I remember on my 07 last year. Can't remember this year but I am sure it was lined up

 

[Thermodyne]

The isolators on my 07 have a notch in them which the manual says to set at between 11 and 12 oclock the picture shown in the above post shows a hole on the outer face at about that same position with the shaft up high.
View attachment 272808

There are pins in the endcaps that sit in the slots. But sometimes the end caps are switched left to right.

Up, is actually up and a little forward of center once the pins pick up the slot.

 

[Rounderz]

Ya but then you would have to also mix up the mounts. I only pulled left side off.