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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1.) With the old Delkron Cam plate, internal cam gears would bind on half of the 1/4 turn measurements and the top end tick was annoying. The baisley spring helped but tick still there.

2.) With the new feuling cam plate gears rotated smooth as glass. No binding

3.) Used 1 size bigger on Pin gear (same as before). No gear wine.

4.) At first start up lifters, top end etc was a little noisy. Then after running for a while things really settled down. I hear no ticking in the top end. no Gear wine below.

5). I do not have an oil gauge so I do not know what the pressure is/was. When I first started up, a little oil seeped out around the oil dip stick but then stopped. (did this with the Delkron plate after I installed the #2 Baisley spring) I did notice a little oil seeping out around the jag oil cooler adaptor. I will check to make sure it is tight. It has come loose before. Once the bike reached temps in the 180 to 190 range I looked into the oil tank and saw a good steady flow of oil be re-circulated back into the oil tank on my softail.

So, gear bind gone, ticking in the top end gone. So both of those are good signs.

Just need to double checked the area around the Jagg oil cooler adapter.

What's interesting, is now the ticking/top end noise is gone, I now hear other noises I am not familiar with. So I am wondering are they normal. Almost all from the left side so I know it is not the cam gears. May be in primary or may be just normal. New to me.

I recommend the new Feuling Cam plate if you are using or, are going to use a Feuling oil pump. (Note: this cam plate can not be used with a stock HD oil pump)

Kevin
 

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Where did you get yours and how much? I looked at them but no one had them in stock when I looked 6 months ago.
 

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davemhughes said:
Where did you get yours and how much? I looked at them but no one had them in stock when I looked 6 months ago.
I got mine from the site sponsor, Direct Parts.
 

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1.) With the old Delkron Cam plate, internal cam gears would bind on half of the 1/4 turn measurements and the top end tick was annoying. The baisley spring helped but tick still there.

FWIW, I have one of the other guys camplates (Delkron) and it works smooth as silk!! I'm not sure if I got a good one before the company switched hands or maybe the machinist that made mine had a good day!!! No binding, no gear whine, no top end noise, no nothing!! Delkron used to be a very reputable company in the racing community. Motors and trannys built with their components were among some of the strongest. I really don't know what happened to them since they sold the company..........:dunno:

I'm:xhere:
 

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Thanks.....I have a billet plate in my Fatboy but want a Feuling to go in my Ultra. Now just have to find a decent map.
 

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SO, did anyone swap the spring from the Delcron or Fueling cam plates with the Baisley? :whistle:
 

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I Hear you have to run a feuling pump with the feuling camplate?? is this true or not?
Thanks
I see in the first post you cant run stock pump, but has any onr had first hand experiance, Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
LAF said:
SO, did anyone swap the spring from the Delcron or Fueling cam plates with the Baisley? :whistle:
The Feuling Cam plate comes with a heavier spring. Below is a response to an email I found on another forum.

An e-mail response from Feuling regarding oil pressure question.
The by-pass spring does not create oil pressure only the oil pump can create pressure. The by-pass valve is what it says it is - a by-pass. This is put in the cam plate to protect the engine of too much pressure. When we state to stretch the stock spring .050" this sets the valve to pop off at +/- 55 psi. This means the engine shouldn't see much more than this for pressure ever. If you get one of our new Feuling cam plates we set each plate to pop off at 55 psi. We also just started making a tool to sell to techs that test the pressure relief valve and camplate.

Luke Leatherman
619-917-6222
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
DanNZ said:
I Hear you have to run a feuling pump with the feuling camplate?? is this true or not?
Thanks
I see in the first post you cant run stock pump, but has any onr had first hand experiance, Thanks
That is true. You must use a Feuling oil pump with their cam plate.
 

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kgoose said:
That is true. You must use a Feuling oil pump with their cam plate.
Yep BIG warning on the cam plate instructions.
 

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kgoose said:
The Feuling Cam plate comes with a heavier spring. Below is a response to an email I found on another forum.

An e-mail response from Feuling regarding oil pressure question.
The by-pass spring does not create oil pressure only the oil pump can create pressure. The by-pass valve is what it says it is - a by-pass. This is put in the cam plate to protect the engine of too much pressure. When we state to stretch the stock spring .050" this sets the valve to pop off at +/- 55 psi. This means the engine shouldn't see much more than this for pressure ever. If you get one of our new Feuling cam plates we set each plate to pop off at 55 psi. We also just started making a tool to sell to techs that test the pressure relief valve and camplate.

Luke Leatherman
619-917-6222
That is good info, but on the new pump and cam plate it does not tell you to stretch the spring as it used to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
LAF said:
That is good info, but on the new pump and cam plate it does not tell you to stretch the spring as it used to.
You do not stretch the spring on the Feuling Cam plate. The spring in their cam plate appears to be the same or similiar to the #2 spring Baisley sells and is already set up for their pump.

Not sure about the Delkron plate. The older Delkron I had used the same spring as a stock HD cam plate. So I put in a #2 Baisley spring. It helped some.

I would never stretch the stock spring anyways. Springs have memory from what I have read.
 

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Not sure about the Delkron plate. The older Delkron I had used the same spring as a stock HD cam plate. So I put in a #2 Baisley spring. It helped some.
I left in the spring that came with the plate but added a Zippers shim that I had turned down so it would open just a little earlier. 50-55psi at cold start, 15-20psi after warm up. Works for me.:chopper:
 

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feuling cam support plate

is in. Valves adjusted and it is quiet, not that it was noisy before, but it is quieter in the entire valve train: Feuling lifters too. Oil pressure is over 30 at idle, probably 35 on a hot idle at 1100 rpms. Glad I put it in 'cause................... when I drained the crankcase, it had nearly a quart of oil. The cam chest had very little oil, but then if it overfills, it probably drains through the crank bearing into the crankcase. Even though I have SnS cases, I figured one quart was at least half a quart too much. Uh, hmmm. So........

when I took the Feuling oil pump off, it smelled like sewer water. uh, what the heck is this black grime around the oil pump screw holes? My engine does not have grime! How dare that grime be there. Anyway, took pump apart and the narrow outer gear was broken and it smelled like burnt oil. Something was sucked in it from the oil pan after 6k miles following the build. The piece which either was sucked in from the oil pan or came off the oil pump gear when it broke was imprinted in the gear face. The filter caught whatever it was, though. Found a little piece of metal in the filter media. The good news is that Luke Leatherman gave me a new Feuling pump for $50 bucks. Shipping the old pump to him in the Feuling cam plate box probably did not hurt: customer loyalty .......... . Luke even overnighted it to me since I was going on a long putt the next weekend. Good customer service and a fair replacement price from Feuling even though the warranty period expired and it was not defective in all probability. Glad they are still in business. The new pump has 7000 scrolled on it. I guess it is a new design or they wanted to autograph it. The outer appearance of the scavenge interface plug coupling is a bit different, though, hole size etc. looked the same. I installed the "A" motor hex screw in the cam plate to block off the "B" motor port and used red locktite. I left the o ring on the blind boss on the "A" engine case just for grins and maybe to prevent any rubbing of the plate on that boss. Not sayin' that "is the way to do it', just sayin' that is how I did it.

So, there is a lot to be said for oil pressure gauges which my engine NOW has on it. No telling how much oil I was not pumping or not scavenging but the engine was quiet before I found the broken gear, so it probably under scavenged. I put on the HD oil filled gauge which is used by the EVO motors directly screwed into the EVO cases (I think). Any, it is a bit peculiar in that the gauge compartment rotates 360 degrees on the connecting fitting which is "fixed" to the back of the gauge. I guess it has an o ring type gasket between the oil gauge dial compartment and the boss on the back of the gauge so it can rotate. We were waiting for it to leak when we started the engine, but so far, no leak and no rotation of the gauge face. Guess that is the way HD built it.

Well, that was the last engine mod, so I hope she holds together for a few years or she will become an IT instead of a "she."

As soon as the True Track comes in, been waiting three weeks plus, I'll be set to putt to Washington, D.C. in May for Rolling Thunder. See ya there.

BTW, for those wondering how to center your oil pump, keep reading, 'cause we finally figured it out. Here is the deal: Put the oil pump on the cam plate with screws finger tight. You can put all four screws on the pump. Then, line up the flats on the oil pump gears. We had the primary side off too, so we turned the engine over on the comp nut with a socket wrench until the flats on the crankshaft pretty much lined up with the flats on the oil pump. We slipped the cam plate on and engaged the crankshaft flats with the oil pump flats. We had to rotate the crank a little bit to get the cam support plate to bottom out/mesh on the cases, which means the oil pump is seated on the crank flats. He is the deal: you are going to rotate the crankshaft to center the cam support plate first. Yeah, that's right. So, my buddy rotated the crank on the comp nut with the cam support plate bolts loosely installed so that the cam support plate would move if it needed to as the crank rotated. If the cam support plate moved, you could not see it since the tolerances are so small on crankshaft "wobble." Anyway, I tightened the cam support plate bolts down while my buddy rotated it figuring it aligned itself during the process. How it moves while rotating the crank when the cam support plate engages the dowels on the cases is beyond me. But, that is what Feuling says to do. Now the cam support plate is snugged down tightly with all the bolts and won't move. Now, you do the same thing for the oil pump: rotate crank so pump will center ON THE CAM PLATE , then snug them down. I'm sure you get the picture by now. Then torque everything down to specs. Ok, it took us two pump installations to figure it out, but we finally did. No alignment pins used at all. This is the procedure Feuling says to follow.

STB
 

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This is what I did:
Alignment Pin Usage Instructions
1-With the cam plate out of the engine block, orient and hold the oil pump into its mounted position. (see the shop manual)
2-Thread two alignment pins into diagonally-opposed holes and finger-tighten.
3-Then, (making sure the oil pump orings are in place, mount the cam plate onto the engine block. Take care the the o-rings don't fall off or get dislodged.
4-Insert and torque the cam plate bolts following the shop manual torquing instructions.
5-Then, torque the alignment pins to between 25 and 50 inch pounds. Do not over-tighten.
The actual torque isn't critical; the object is to firmly seat the pins into the holes.
6-Insert two oil pump mounting bolts (1" in length) into the open diagonally-opposed holes and torque to about 25 inch pounds.
7-Remove the two alignment pins and insert the remaining two oil pump mounting bolts.
8-Torque all four pump mounting bolts to factory specifications

This is right off Ken R's website!! Three of us did this w/o any problem whatsoever. :whistle:
 

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csoday said:
I run the stock plate, stock pump and no spring. Guess what, no problems. :beer:
Chuck - I'm really glads that works for you. That's what makes H-D's so interesting, the variety of parts and ease of being able to work on them yourself!!:beer:
:duh?:
 
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