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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My heads a double plugged and the spark plug boot will not fit do to clearance problems on right side with stock push rod tubes. The orginal plug tip rested against the tube which I was using a spacer on so the threaded reach part of the plu8g would not extend into the combustion chamber on the right side (heads thinner on Right side where extra plug goes so the plug extends into the combustion chamber). So I went and found some shorter reach NGK's to put in there which gave me a 1/8" clearance. What I really need is a shorter electrode plugs to give me the clearance I need. Which means "maybe" with trimming the boot down I can get it on...don't really want to trim too much as I am afraid I will have an arching problem. So the next thought is narrower pushrod tubes. Figuring a more narrow diameter tube will help give me the clearance I need. Going to try dimpling the orginal tube but doubt I will get the clearance I need.
 

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Sounds like a real headache. I hope you get it all figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well..........this has been very challenging to say the least.......pulled the heads and having them re-machined. Frustrating yes........but i guess it has to be this way to get it right.
 

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davemhughes said:
Well..........this has been very challenging to say the least.......pulled the heads and having them re-machined. Frustrating yes........but i guess it has to be this way to get it right.

Doesn't sound or even look like the original machinest did it right in the first place. I hope the shop is re doing it at their expense and using a more qualified machinest this time.
 

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Aside from the fitting problems, have you determined whether the dual plugs work? I presume that you are trying to eliminate pre-ignition because of high compression. They are rather unusual in a Twin cam for the street.
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davemhughes said:
Well..........this has been very challenging to say the least.......pulled the heads and having them re-machined. Frustrating yes........but i guess it has to be this way to get it right.
Did they machine the head so the sparkplug sits between the pusrods. EVO heads thats not to bad but still a pain in the rear to change plugs. TC it gets even worse. I know Zippers will dual plug your heads, but they drill them at an angle and come in behind the tubes so you can change plugs without having to diasssemble pusrod tubess & in some cases remove the pusrods too.

Zippers Part Number ZM-9306, $145.00. If you want to know Zippers take on dual plugging read their description.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/showproduct.asp?cat=850&prod=2066
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yes the heads are plugged between the pushrod tubes. The Zipper method sounds like a better way.

Yes its a compression and flame propigation issue. Mainly trying the get the most efficent controlled burn as possible.

The Dyna DC9-2 ignition system with 4 post output has been tested........getting going on mine will have to wait until I get the heads back.

The guy who has been doing all my machine woirk has always done a good job in the past. yes I like things done right the first time but when something is wrong I really care about people standing behind thier work.......an increasingly rare quality now days. He said he would make it right even if he has to completely redo the entire head project. Thats why I keep using this guy.....his word has always been good. (Big Al Taylor of Taylor Performance Machine out of Crestview, FL) Plus he really understands performance theory applications from working for several Nascar Motor shops and NHRA drag bike teams in the past. Plus he always treated me like a valued customer. So yes if I sound loyal to him its because he has earned it.

Lots of good input from all......as always thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
UpDate

Got the heads re-worked and the bike has been running now for 2 days. Thank god....been running it enough to put some heat into the heads then shutting it down. Ran it about a mile and it just purred. The high lift cams and dual plugs seem to be working well....put a little Mystery oil in the gas and will run some in it till break in is complete.

Learned a lot from this Dual plug performance Twincam build. Mainly when doing a true performance build like this and not just an off the shelf stuff.......patience is required and being able to adapt to all the variables. I will post the dyno numbers when the bike is broke in and all the fine tuning is done.

95ci .020 over
Mahle High Domed pistons (coated)
Heads: (Big Al) Level 3 port / double plugged / chamber re-shaped / comp releases
Valves : Ferrea Hollow stem 2.0 intake / exh 1.615 /Ferrea guides/ springs/ retainers / 5 angle grind
Accel plugs
Rivera Billet rocker support plate
Ultima roller rockers
S&S titanium adj pushrods
Feuling Super pump
Feuling lifters
Timken bearings
Cams: custom grind on Andrew's blanks....635 lift 258 intake 260 exh
Billet Cam support plate
Dyna TwinFire DC9-2 30k volt coil (4 pole)
Dyna graphite plug wires
Dyna TC88-2 Adj ignition module
Mik 45 with ported intake manfold
K&N Air filter
Exhaust: SE big shots (yes i know I need 2-1)
30 T front pulley
100LL fuel
Misc...odds and ends

and still.......one pissed off wife
 

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So, how were the heads re-machined? Did they put the holes somewhere else and plug the old ones?

I would ove to see pictures of them.

Also, what does the Mystery Oil do for break-in?

Congrats on getting it done right and being able to finally enjoy it!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will post some pics later..........

The M. Mystery oil adds upper cylinder lube.....I think its important during break in. I have used it in all our farm equipment and all previous motor builds. Some I am sure think its Voo Doo but I believe it works.
 

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Makes sense to me.

Can't wait for the pictures. I'm very curious about this.
 

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davemhughes said:
I will post some pics later..........

The M. Mystery oil adds upper cylinder lube.....I think its important during break in. I have used it in all our farm equipment and all previous motor builds. Some I am sure think its Voo Doo but I believe it works.
Got to say that oil in the fuel is definiteley voodoo, helps to put a fine very hard varnish on the cylinder walls during the burn and assists in glazing the bores which leads to less performance than without it.............of course if you are putting a teaspoon in then it will not be noticed........but if you are putting more in then it should be 2 stroke oil........which is designed to burn fully with each charge.

not to mention that this varnish will find its way into impossible to clean channels in a carb bike and cause tuning issues.

All the best, Ozzie
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Actually.......MMO is an "Ester" and they are well know in the air cooled piston driven aircraft industry to do Exactly the oppisite of what you are talking about. It breaks up existing slug and carbon and prevents the formarion. I use it in all my air tools also. Plus a product that has been around for 80+ years usually has some merit.

Sounds like a good topic for the oil / lube section.......maybe we can find out there what others think?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just posted this to oil/lube section and already quite a few posts.......good to get that kind of input.
 

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davemhughes said:
Actually.......MMO is an "Ester" and they are well know in the air cooled piston driven aircraft industry to do Exactly the oppisite of what you are talking about. It breaks up existing slug and carbon and prevents the formarion. I use it in all my air tools also. Plus a product that has been around for 80+ years usually has some merit.

Sounds like a good topic for the oil / lube section.......maybe we can find out there what others think?
Not trying to argue with you on this but I think you will find that these additives are used after the breakin period.................

All the best, Ozzie
 
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