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I'd like to share some ideas about knives during this deer and holiday season that might save you some time and money, besides getting you better performance. And trust me, I've already made every mistake possible.
The most common question I get asked is, "What's the best knife/steel?"
Without trying to be a [email protected]$$, I ask what they need to cut. And the information is more important than you might think. And of course, your budget plays a very important part.
I've found Japanese laminate knives to be the best choice for kitchen use and food preparation--bar none. Oh, you can get a wicked edge on a premium Wustoff, but you can darn near do surgery with a Masahiro with a polished edge. Just about anyone can afford some of their models.
If you're a hunter, my advice could go one of three ways. That is, camp use, field dressing and caping.
For use around the camp for general use you cannot beat a Buck 119. Been there, done that, bugs fixed long ago. Everyone should own one. If you need something stronger, get a small axe.
For field dressing, get a name brand high carbon, low chromium 4-inch knife, either folding or fixed configuration. Something that is easy to clean seems the best advice. It's not necessary to break the pelvis, and if you insist on that style of field dressing, a small saw might be better. Again, a polished edge around 20 degrees is about right.
Finally, if you do get that trophy 6x6 elk, and you have the skill to do your own caping, get a small, fixed blade knife. Since the knife will see no use for any other job in camp, you may want to try the excellent cutting service of a carbon steel knife. The blade should have a wicked tip, a painfully thin blade and tightest angle you can maintain without the edge crumbling. If it dulls after one use, so be it.
As for steel, I'm a stainless fan. The technology in the last ten years has negated the stainless vs. carbon steel debate. True, there's nothing like the "packed edge" of a forged carbon knife with a mirror finish, but such a knife requires more care. It most likely will stain and tarnish.
I like the family of 154-CM, BG-42, VG-10 and the newer S30V. My wife's knife of CPM-440V (S60V) is quite glass-hard and can chip. It does have superior edge retention. **** Strider once wrote that most users could not tell the difference in a well made knife, anyhow. And I believe it. I also believe in quality heat-treat.
If you are lucky enough to own a knife heat-treated by Paul Bos, congratulations. You own a fine knife, and I'm jealous. I am proud of the fact that I own four of his knives, and each one cuts like a chainsaw. My wife owns a small Buck Mini-Alpha Hunter with a Bos' blade. It has a Loveless style drop-point that is by far the standard.
I do dabble in space-age stuff. I have to, I have to sharpen anything a client hands me. In that vein, I also own a new Spyderco made from ZDP-189 laminate. It is my understanding that Spyderco made about +/-600 of the knives and for some reason has decided to make it a short run. My guess is the expense of production and then the final end-cost to the client.
However, yikes, the edge scares me.
I recommend that you shop for knives like you shop for Wig-Wam socks, good boots, warm jackets and sleeping bags. Buy the best you can afford that fits your needs and your hands. Learn to sharpen, keep it clean. Keep a knife handy like you would your wallet or keys.
Then when it's really valuable in your life, give it to your grandchild.
The most common question I get asked is, "What's the best knife/steel?"
Without trying to be a [email protected]$$, I ask what they need to cut. And the information is more important than you might think. And of course, your budget plays a very important part.
I've found Japanese laminate knives to be the best choice for kitchen use and food preparation--bar none. Oh, you can get a wicked edge on a premium Wustoff, but you can darn near do surgery with a Masahiro with a polished edge. Just about anyone can afford some of their models.
If you're a hunter, my advice could go one of three ways. That is, camp use, field dressing and caping.
For use around the camp for general use you cannot beat a Buck 119. Been there, done that, bugs fixed long ago. Everyone should own one. If you need something stronger, get a small axe.
For field dressing, get a name brand high carbon, low chromium 4-inch knife, either folding or fixed configuration. Something that is easy to clean seems the best advice. It's not necessary to break the pelvis, and if you insist on that style of field dressing, a small saw might be better. Again, a polished edge around 20 degrees is about right.
Finally, if you do get that trophy 6x6 elk, and you have the skill to do your own caping, get a small, fixed blade knife. Since the knife will see no use for any other job in camp, you may want to try the excellent cutting service of a carbon steel knife. The blade should have a wicked tip, a painfully thin blade and tightest angle you can maintain without the edge crumbling. If it dulls after one use, so be it.
As for steel, I'm a stainless fan. The technology in the last ten years has negated the stainless vs. carbon steel debate. True, there's nothing like the "packed edge" of a forged carbon knife with a mirror finish, but such a knife requires more care. It most likely will stain and tarnish.
I like the family of 154-CM, BG-42, VG-10 and the newer S30V. My wife's knife of CPM-440V (S60V) is quite glass-hard and can chip. It does have superior edge retention. **** Strider once wrote that most users could not tell the difference in a well made knife, anyhow. And I believe it. I also believe in quality heat-treat.
If you are lucky enough to own a knife heat-treated by Paul Bos, congratulations. You own a fine knife, and I'm jealous. I am proud of the fact that I own four of his knives, and each one cuts like a chainsaw. My wife owns a small Buck Mini-Alpha Hunter with a Bos' blade. It has a Loveless style drop-point that is by far the standard.
I do dabble in space-age stuff. I have to, I have to sharpen anything a client hands me. In that vein, I also own a new Spyderco made from ZDP-189 laminate. It is my understanding that Spyderco made about +/-600 of the knives and for some reason has decided to make it a short run. My guess is the expense of production and then the final end-cost to the client.
However, yikes, the edge scares me.
I recommend that you shop for knives like you shop for Wig-Wam socks, good boots, warm jackets and sleeping bags. Buy the best you can afford that fits your needs and your hands. Learn to sharpen, keep it clean. Keep a knife handy like you would your wallet or keys.
Then when it's really valuable in your life, give it to your grandchild.