does anyone have the page out of the manual for a 99 Electraglide to install the baisley spring?I got the spring and want to put it in but dont have the manual.Was hoping somebody could scan the page that shows how to get the exhaust off and get the cam cover off.
Need page out of manual for install of Baisley spring
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
H
Harris
·Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Don't have a scanner.
The exhaust is pretty straight forward. Loosen the heat shields so you can access the various mounting bolts. Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust flanges in place at the heads. Remove the clamps on the high side just below the clutch release cover (where the transmission fluid goes in), and at the crossover, beneath the seat; and remove the bolts that hold each muffler to the saddlebag supports. You likely won't need to remove the exhaust, as you will now have enough play to move the pipes out of your way. It can help ALOT to get a set of ball-end allen wrenchs.
There are ten allen head screws that hold the cam cover on. Lets call the upper rear (left as you look at it) number "1", and work our way clockwise around to number "10". The torque sequence is as follows:
1-first
7-second
8-third
4-fourth
9-fifth
3-sixth
2-seventh
6-eighth
10-ninth
5-tenth
Torque them to 125-155 INCH/pounds.
Before replacing the cover, ensure that the blind holes in the crank case flange are clean, and free of oil. Anything in the holes will be pressurzed to the point the case can crack.
Hope that helps.
Harris
The exhaust is pretty straight forward. Loosen the heat shields so you can access the various mounting bolts. Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust flanges in place at the heads. Remove the clamps on the high side just below the clutch release cover (where the transmission fluid goes in), and at the crossover, beneath the seat; and remove the bolts that hold each muffler to the saddlebag supports. You likely won't need to remove the exhaust, as you will now have enough play to move the pipes out of your way. It can help ALOT to get a set of ball-end allen wrenchs.
There are ten allen head screws that hold the cam cover on. Lets call the upper rear (left as you look at it) number "1", and work our way clockwise around to number "10". The torque sequence is as follows:
1-first
7-second
8-third
4-fourth
9-fifth
3-sixth
2-seventh
6-eighth
10-ninth
5-tenth
Torque them to 125-155 INCH/pounds.
Before replacing the cover, ensure that the blind holes in the crank case flange are clean, and free of oil. Anything in the holes will be pressurzed to the point the case can crack.
Hope that helps.
Harris
Harris....thanks for the quick reply.I dont want to sound as if i have never worked on anything before,because i have done plenty of mechanical work on cars and trucks.....but exactally which cover will be the one i need to remove?I know it will be on the right side of the motor since that is where the exhaust is,but where is the cover?
thanks again,mike
thanks again,mike
H
Harris
·Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
That's the cover. The one the inside of your right foot is adjacent to, directly below the air cleaner. You should replace the gasket for it, and the exhausts as well, if they're original on your '99.
Doc,
Luckily I just picked the tip about making sure the threads are clear from the manual. Sorry to hear you've had proof it can occur.
Harris
Doc,
Luckily I just picked the tip about making sure the threads are clear from the manual. Sorry to hear you've had proof it can occur.
Harris
Oh my yes, the hole under the fwd oil port going to the filter drains into the cover holes and I japped the cover on with an impact and it hydrolocked and busted the case....this happened in 2000, maybe it was because of me they put it in the manual......NAH!!!!!Harris said:
Joined
·
4,884 Posts
hdmd88 said:
Man, those crankcase bosses don't look all that durable to me, either. I bet that if the hole were full of oil and old Loctite, you could get several hundred psi of hydraulic pressure inside one when you torque it down. That would be more than enough to crack the boss.
The factory added that section and updated it around the time they brought out my 2004 service manual. As you all probably know by now they lowered the torque and put in a warning. I've read about several owners who got cracks that way. Once cracked, it would be well nigh impossible to fix. Even if you removed the engine and split the crankcases, welding it would be tough due to need to remove all of the oil and dirt in the crack. Then you''d be left to do some machining and hope that it didn't warp too badly.
If that happened to me, I would probably want a new crankcase.
:sofa:
H
Harris
·Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
If yours has a newton/meter scale it's 14 to 17 N/M.
Harris
Harris
i dont think it has that.Its just some torque wrench i bought from Autozone.Its not the best,but it did the job of what i needed it for way back when.But i think it reads in foot pounds,and not inch pounds....unless they are one in the same.I dont know
mike
mike
H
Harris
·Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
No, they aren't the same. You can convert values (12 inch/pounds = 1 Foot/pound), so it's 10 to 12.5 ft/lbs.
Harris
Harris
Joined
·
4,884 Posts
I don't ordinarily like to contradict anyone so please forgive.....my 2004 Touring Service Book (p. 3-53) shows 90-120 in lbs.......sorry......(gulp).......:sofa:Harris said:
H
Harris
·Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Hmm,
Interesting. Mine (same year, same page) shows the 125-155. I'm guessing the made a mid-year change. My recollection is I bought the manual in Dec. 2003. Particularly interesting since mine carries the warning about being sure the blind holes are clean.
Out of curiousity I dug out my 2000 Manual, and it also shows (as NUC's does) a torque value of 90-120 in/lbs.
I would definitely go with that.
(90-120 in/lbs = 10.2-13.6 N/m = 7.5-10 ft/lbs)
Thanks,
Harris
Interesting. Mine (same year, same page) shows the 125-155. I'm guessing the made a mid-year change. My recollection is I bought the manual in Dec. 2003. Particularly interesting since mine carries the warning about being sure the blind holes are clean.
Out of curiousity I dug out my 2000 Manual, and it also shows (as NUC's does) a torque value of 90-120 in/lbs.
I would definitely go with that.
(90-120 in/lbs = 10.2-13.6 N/m = 7.5-10 ft/lbs)
Thanks,
Harris
Joined
·
4,884 Posts
Hi, Your book is approximately the same date as the running change that HD came out with. My book is dated 02-04 and it shows the 90-120 in-lb. value. The Part Number of my 2004 Touring Book is 99483-04A.Harris said:
There is a service bulletin that you can get from HarleyHog's website. It's dated 10-24-03 and is number M-1142. It's called 2004 Service Liiterature Update. I have it right here in front of me. The torque change is buried on page 2. There are other changes to Sportster and Dyna books listed as well. I wonder how many crankcases got munched before they lowered the torque?
OTOH. what I don't understand is why everybody is so anal about the cam cover. It's nothing but a cover. You could tighten the screws up by hand without a torque wrench and be a heck of a lot better off. I agree, use a torque wrench on critical stuff but the cover is not a big deal. Yet, I've read about stripped screws, cracked case bosses, and broken screws buried in the bosses with or without cracks. It just doesn't make sense. One needs to develop a feel for such things.
The cam cover on my Shovelhead is 23 years old and I've never used a torque wrench on it. The screw threads are just fine and it has yet to leak, even though I've used the gasket over again about five times. Go figure.
Regards,
NUC.
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!