I have a 2000 Ultra Classic and need to change the rear tire. The garage can't change it unless I remove the wheel (they are booked up for weeks). I haven't done this before so would like some help if possible. How do I remove the rear wheel? I got the wheel off the ground and the saddlebags off. It would appear that I have to unhook the shocks at the bottom and let the swingarm drop, then remove the nut on the left side, remove the adjusters so the wheel will move forward to get the belt off and pull it out. Is there a rod that goes all the way through the hub that I have to remove, it would seem so? If anyone can help it would be appreciated. Thanks.
Need help
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You could try these usefull tips I've found helps!!!
Dermot.
This method allows rear tire
removal *without* removing any exhaust parts or wheel realignment. This method was suggested to me by the esteemed HogDr and I've used it 4 or 5 times...... A hydraulic lift is a must......
Step # 1..... Ah, you *do* have the shop manual for your bike, don't you?
Raise bike with lift *just* enough to take weight off rear
Remove both lower shock bolts and swing shocks rearward outta the way
Lower lift enough so that the axle is raised between the mufflers and the
saddlebag support rail
Remove axle. Pay attention to how snug the castle nut feels when you take it off cuz there's no room to get a torque wrench in there with the muffs still on........
Tie down rear caliper with zip ties so it stays put for the next step
Lift bike up and away from the wheel
Since the lift doesn't raise the bike straight up the wheel will be tilted
once the lift is fully extended. When reversing the procedure ya gotta take care to line up the rotor and caliper as you *s l o w l y* lower the lift
down onto the wheel. The lift coming back down sorta unstraight means ya gotta do it in stages and line up the wheel so it's perpendicular to the
floor. Spreading the calipers n pads with the wheel off makes it easier to
get the disc back between 'em.
I slip the belt over the pulley before lowering the lift and get the large
spacer wedged between the pulley and the swingarm before everything is lined up and too cramped to do so.
Replacing the axle all the way through is easy until you get to the
left-side adjuster. It can be a tug of war doing it solo and getting the
lift at *just* the right height. It'd probably be much easier to back off
the adjuster a few turns and then twist it back where it was. I ain't never
been one to do things the *easy* way. Seems like cheating somehow.
Not a bad idea to have another set of hands to line up the wheel while you tap the axle through the last spacer, swingarm and adjuster.
If you don't touch the adjusters you won't have to adjust alignment or belt
tension. Everything will be same as it was.
Don't forget a *light* coating of anti-seize on the axle before you slip it
back in.
Dermot (stole it from a yahoo group!)
Ride on,
Like you stole it!!!
Dermot.
This method allows rear tire
removal *without* removing any exhaust parts or wheel realignment. This method was suggested to me by the esteemed HogDr and I've used it 4 or 5 times...... A hydraulic lift is a must......
Step # 1..... Ah, you *do* have the shop manual for your bike, don't you?
Raise bike with lift *just* enough to take weight off rear
Remove both lower shock bolts and swing shocks rearward outta the way
Lower lift enough so that the axle is raised between the mufflers and the
saddlebag support rail
Remove axle. Pay attention to how snug the castle nut feels when you take it off cuz there's no room to get a torque wrench in there with the muffs still on........
Tie down rear caliper with zip ties so it stays put for the next step
Lift bike up and away from the wheel
Since the lift doesn't raise the bike straight up the wheel will be tilted
once the lift is fully extended. When reversing the procedure ya gotta take care to line up the rotor and caliper as you *s l o w l y* lower the lift
down onto the wheel. The lift coming back down sorta unstraight means ya gotta do it in stages and line up the wheel so it's perpendicular to the
floor. Spreading the calipers n pads with the wheel off makes it easier to
get the disc back between 'em.
I slip the belt over the pulley before lowering the lift and get the large
spacer wedged between the pulley and the swingarm before everything is lined up and too cramped to do so.
Replacing the axle all the way through is easy until you get to the
left-side adjuster. It can be a tug of war doing it solo and getting the
lift at *just* the right height. It'd probably be much easier to back off
the adjuster a few turns and then twist it back where it was. I ain't never
been one to do things the *easy* way. Seems like cheating somehow.
Not a bad idea to have another set of hands to line up the wheel while you tap the axle through the last spacer, swingarm and adjuster.
If you don't touch the adjusters you won't have to adjust alignment or belt
tension. Everything will be same as it was.
Don't forget a *light* coating of anti-seize on the axle before you slip it
back in.
Dermot (stole it from a yahoo group!)
Ride on,
Like you stole it!!!
I ended up taking it to the dealer and let him do it. But I saw how he did it so next time???????
Harleyhog, I like your suggestion and it makes sense. I have copied and pasted it into a file for next time. I think I will give it a shot.
Harleyhog, I like your suggestion and it makes sense. I have copied and pasted it into a file for next time. I think I will give it a shot.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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