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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a Mustang seat and and love the back rest but it set me back farther than stock so I added a set of 4" up and 2" back risers. They put the bars right where I want them but now my wiring is too short. I am going to replace all the other cables and lines with braided but need to get some slack for the wiring, I may put these into the bars too just to clean it up. I found the plastic trap door behind the rear wheel but how in the world do you get your hand up in there, let alone cut the cable tie holding the wire bundle? Am I going to have to remove the rear wheel? Is there enough, or any, slack in the wiring under the gas tank? What are the options? Thanks, Dusty
 

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you didn't say what kind of bike, so i assume its a dyna since it the section. There should be plenty of wiring in the frame. Find the plug in the frame right in front of the tank and go on the other side of the frame and cut the wire tie . Pull the amount needed out and replace plug with a new tie wrap. make sure it get routed correctly around the neck....this is for a t/c model i assume
 

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There's a service loop that's accessible through the rear of the frame on the underside of the fender. There is black plastic cover or plug. Remove the plug, pull the loop and you'll get the slack you need to work up front. You might want to consider a manual while your at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Made my fixture today and got the FXDWGI strapped in, raised up the rear end with a scissor jack and there is not enough room to get my hands in there so I have decided to take the tank off and go ahead with the plan of running the wires inside of the bars. I have to cut and splice anyhow so I will do it under the tank and forget about the rear access panal, don't need to mess with it. Will just add some wire under the tank if needed.
 

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dusty67 said:
Made my fixture today and got the FXDWGI strapped in, raised up the rear end with a scissor jack and there is not enough room to get my hands in there so I have decided to take the tank off and go ahead with the plan of running the wires inside of the bars. I have to cut and splice anyhow so I will do it under the tank and forget about the rear access panal, don't need to mess with it. Will just add some wire under the tank if needed.
I found it helped to take the belt guard off,gave me 3 times more room to move my hands round and get the rear access panel.

Thanks to Duo Glide for his help by the way!!
 

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Cable in frame rail

I just put fat bars on my 04 fxdwg. Service manual said to cut wire tieunder seat and pull wire thru frame rail. When I did this, the wires came undone inside the frame rail. Hade to take off whole battery case assembley and work the wire into the frame rail from under the seat. There is plenty of slack there.
 

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I just installed new bars, cables, switch housings, and paint set on my DWG. Since I had the fender and tank off it wasn't that difficult to pull the harness thru the frame. The rear fender is not that difficult to unbolt and move out of ther way, look at the pics in the service manual. If I had the choice between removing the rear wheel or rear fender I'd do the fender. You will need to remove the belt guard to get at a bolt holding the fender to the frame. The wiring harness that runs to the tail light assembly disconnects from the main harness under the seat. If you remove the battery box you will have additional room. If you feed the harness thru from back to front you shouldn't pull any connectors off in the frame.

The switch harness' are staggered on the main harness so that they don't create a bulge and slide in the frame. Each switch harness is connected to the main harness with a deutsch connector that is easy to disassemble. Once the connectors off you can run the wires thru the bars. My new bars are 12.5", the original switch harness was more than long enough to make it thru the bar and tree but not to the main harness. You can get extensions from HD for about $17.00 a piece. They are about 9 - 12 inches long. The harness extensions are color coded to match the switch harness. This is much neater than splicing wires and is just about fool proof

I am mechanically inclined but not a professional wrench. I would rate the difficulty of doing this job at about a 5 out of 10. Just make sure you have a service manual, take your time, and be patient. Every nut and bolt you remove has a specific torque specified in the manual, be sure not to exceed them especially on any aluminum components.
 

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I just did this on my WG. I don't know where this plug or whatever it is in the rear fender is... I looked around, but never saw it. I also have huge hands, and figured from what I have read in the past, I wouldn't be able to get to the thing anyway... without taking the rear tire off.

Anyway...

As mentioned, clip the zip tie at the top of the neck holding the rubber plug in on the right side of the frame by the tank.

Take your seat off... take the seat bracket thing off to. Under the seat is a service loop, about 1.5" thick. I think there might be a zip tie holding it in place also.
It will free up some room if you take the bolts out and move the fuse box / electrical stuff... you don't have to remove it, just take the bolts out and pull it out to create some extra space.

you should be able to trace the loop and figure out which end is going up the frame, and which isn't. I just pushed an inch or two of the loop down, and then pulled at the neck an inch or two. It takes a coupld push/pulls, but it is really easy and there is no need to find the mysterious fender hole/hatch/plug/whatever the hell it is.

This was really easy - a lot easier than any of the threads I read before doing it. The harness basically goes back in the same way. I have read people coming up with fancy dowels to push wires back in, etc... not needed... just push the harness in an inch or so, then reach in under the seat area and start pulling the loop back down the frame.

If you are going to change your bars significantly, you will need to extend the wires coming down through the bars. I went to Wild1 10" baby apes, to replace my stock baby apes... they are maybe a half inch taller, but they are wider, so you do use more wire... but you do not have to add any length to the existing wire. I replaced the triple tree while I was at it, and the top tree is at least an inch taller than the stock tree. If you are sticking with the stock tree, I venture to say you can go with 12" apes and still not need extra wire.... you just don't push the harness back down the frame as far. I wouldn't go taller without adding wire though, as you pull more harness from the frame that doesn't go back down, you will eventually end up with excess that goes to the control cluster under your tank panel.
 
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