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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yesterday i was driving with my 1992 FXRS-Convertible. Suddenly i lost firing in another cylinder. I saw front wire was popped out of coil. I pressed it back - i felt it was going in too easy. I inspected closer - "damn, that's it, cannot continue" (i do not want to drive with just one cylinder). From the coil side of wire there was missing that connector part, i also tested with finger nail that it was not inside the coil "hole" either. Then i did desperate test, put wire into coil again, and started engine - for real surprise it was running with both cylinders! I drove smoothly to my garage, engine worked almost like normal, only in heavy accelerations it missed some beats.
At garage i checked with mirror - the hole in coil was really empty, nothing inside. I put an old (that "other brand" in picture) wire and did another short trip. I do not understand electricity, tell me how on eatrh that wire worked? FXRs work with that mystic jumping electric?
accel.jpg hole.jpg verrokki.jpg
 

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No mystery, electricity jumps.
It's called arcing.
Dont believe it??? Stick finger within about a half inch, of exposed wire, while running!!! Best on Rainy day!!!!
Reminds me of a Story about my 1974, '74" on one rainy day... but, you would need to have spent some time on a 4-speed to really appreciate where the Coil is Located on them!!!!
 

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Dont believe it??? Stick finger within about a half inch, of exposed wire, while running!!! Best on Rainy day!!!!
Reminds me of a Story about my 1974, '74" on one rainy day... but, you would need to have spent some time on a 4-speed to really appreciate where the Coil is Located on them!!!!
This reminds me of my youth when a city raised cousin was dared to pee on an electric fence.lol Back in the day of 6 cylinder and V8 cars I would open the hood in the pitch black looking for a leaking wire. A leaky wire will leave you stranded if riding in the rain and a roll of electric tape doesn't take up much room in your bag.

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Removing a coil wire from contact and holding it 1/4 to 1/2 inch away actually makes it hotter. Same with spark plugs. Widening the gap makes a more intense spark. Works great when the flatlanders go into high altitudes with carbed bikes.
 

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It just looks like the end of that one cable has pulled back into the boot.

If you ran that scooter very long with that wire arcing inside the coil tower, you may need a coil now. You'll have to clean it out with a wire brush and see how badly it burned the inside of the tower.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It just looks like the end of that one cable has pulled back into the boot.

If you ran that scooter very long with that wire arcing inside the coil tower, you may need a coil now. You'll have to clean it out with a wire brush and see how badly it burned the inside of the tower.
Thanks, that is a good hint. I have learned that with these machines you have to check everything, then double check what you just checked. After that you can do the main inspection. After repairing things repeat checking and double checking. And after test drive watch closely what you forgot to mount and or tighten...
 

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Thanks, that is a good hint. I have learned that with these machines you have to check everything, then double check what you just checked. After that you can do the main inspection. After repairing things repeat checking and double checking. And after test drive watch closely what you forgot to mount and or tighten...
Astute observation right there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
If you ran that scooter very long with that wire arcing inside the coil tower, you may need a coil now. You'll have to clean it out with a wire brush and see how badly it burned the inside of the tower.
Just cleaned insides of towers. Contacts of the one which popped out looks ok (shining solid copper), but another one looks suspicious. It has very hard, shining black coating. I do not have suitable wire brush now (and did not want to use sand paper) - I had nylon brush and tried to clean it with Dremell+soft head. Then I found a new coil from my boxes, but it seems to be for mechanically timed ignition (4,5 ohm), right? . EDIT: I answer to my own question... I found specs of this coil: "for Breaker points - for Dyna S ignition system - primary resistance: 5 Ohm"
old one: X1_old_coil.jpg new one: X2_new_coil.jpg

When looking for that new coil, i found some old speedos. These two (from FXR's) are broken - funny thing is that i have somewhere third broken one with 18500 miles in it. So, they are designed to last 18500 miles ;) ?
Y1_boken_ones.jpg
Then i found another one (km/h) - it is for smaller hole (3 1/4") than the ones for FXR (3 1/2") - i do not know for what model that is. And quite odd thing (km/h) is that i bought this from USA. I like that panel mounting reset button - could this be for some touring model?
Y2_new_3_1per4.jpg

get some decent wires/caps
What you suggest? I have made 200k km (125k miles) with Accel products, and this was the first time they failed me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
About those broken speedos. That right one is from this:
At that time (2012) she had 16959 miles (i doubt it !). Now happily in Finland in my collection.
 

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If the ign box calls for 5 ohms, the 4.5 ohm coil will be fine. Just be sure the box is set for waste spark.

As for the broken speedos, a lot of them got replaced back then because the turn signal counter went bad. The needle and odometer were still fine. Put a drill on it and see what it does.
 
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