Gus said:
1999 FXSTC , Softail custom
Any ideas on what I can do next to get a little
more performance.
What I'm looking for is something that can be done
relatively cheap and quick i.e. a "Bolt on" type
of enhancement, as opposed to major work.
Kinda like what I've done so far.
- added High flow kit on carb and re jetted
- added screaming eagle ignition
- added EV 27 cam
- added Krome werks straight pipes
So whats next ?
Considering;
- changing the solid rear wheel for a 40 spoke
stock rim.
I've been told this helps, ( I guess simply because
of the mass/weight of the solid wheel)
Hi Gus. Where in Vermont? I'm across the lake in Plattsburgh.
To answer your question, here are my recommendations. This is mostly based on my 25+ years of experience wrenching on Harleys. I'm sure you'll get more good input from others here on the site.
You seem to be on the right track, except for the exhaust. Straight pipes are worthless on an EVO unless you are racing it all the time at high rpms. You are losing a HUGE amount of torque at the bottom end of the rpm range using those pipes! If you want 2-2 pipes, I would recommend something like the V&H Straight Shots (with installed baffles), the Python III, or the Bartels system. For a cheaper route, try the Cycle Shack slip-ons. They aren't the best, but are a lot better than what you have.
If you really want to give it a kick in the pants, put on some good 2-1 pipes, like the Pro-Pipe or Thunderheader. It will feel like a completely different bike! I used to run straight pipes, and had a major dip in the torque curve below 3200 rpm. Once I switched to the V&H Pro-Pipe HS (w/ regular baffle), that dip disappeared completely and the bike pulls HARD from idle on up. Think about what engine speeds you are running in most of the time... usually 2000-3500 rpm. That's where you want the most torque, especially if you ride in the mountains a lot like I do. Leave the straight pipes for the Shovels and ironhead Sportys. Check out the following link. This site has a ton of good performance info, including extensive exhaust testing info!
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust_test_01.htm
You are running a good cam. The EV27 works very well and gives a lot of low-end and mid-range torque. Of course, you won't really feel that with the exhaust you are using. Remember, on a Harley, TORQUE is much more important than horsepower. I wouldn't even worry about HP numbers at all. Torque is what you want for a street-ridden bike. There are better cams out there, but the EV27 is a very good one. They do tend to make some valvetrain noise... more than stock. It's caused by the faster ramps and the extreme angle of the front exhaust pushrod to the lifter and rocker arm. This noise can also be minimized by using the stock gear with the new cam to reduce gear lash. Mine makes a lot of ticking noise, but I don't care. It runs great and besides... it's a Harley, meaning it's a noisy engine by design. So many people waste a lot of time and money trying to eliminate a little lifter noise that isn't hurting anythign.
Rule of thumb in choosing a cam..... for a street-ridden bike, you will want something with short duration and higher than stock lift. The longer the duration, the higher the engine speed has to be to get good torque.
Are you running the stock carb? When you say "Hi Flow kit", do you mean the air cleaner? What kind are you using? Personally, I prefer the S&S air cleaner. They work great on all bikes up to and including the big 120 inchers. Don't get duped into something like the Hypercharger. From all accounts I've heard/read, they actually hurt performance when the bike is moving. No matter that AC you are using, the best filter by far are from K&N. Nothing else compares.....
As for the rear wheel, that shouldn't be a concern as far as performance is concerned. The changes caused by the weight difference will make a negligible difference in "felt" power. It might add a very small amount of torque seen on the dyno, but I doubt you'd be able to feel much of a difference while riding. There are a lot of factors that show a slight improvement on the dyno that you won't feel on the street. Basically, unless you are racing it, or just like bragging about numbers
, don't worry too much about minor weight changes.
Also, no matter what you do, and this is IMPORTANT, put it on a dyno for a good tuneup by an EXPERIENCED tuner. I have heard that there are a few good one in NH (not sure about VT), and there's a good one I go to at Barnyard Customs in Potsdam, NY. He only charges $50/hour and has squeezed torque and HP numbers in the 90s out of my EVO.
Here's what I've done to my 1995 Dyna so far to get those results....
Stock displacement
Stock pistons
Shaved heads and .030 gasket for compression ration of 9.8:1 (cost me $70 for machine work)
Stock heads ported and flowed using stock diameter Black Diamond valves and Comp Cam springs (Head work $400.00)
EV27 cam w/ stock lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods ($87 for pushrods... not the EZ install ones)
Dyna 2000i ignition with custom advance curve and stock HD (sometimes Champion) spark plugs
S&S Super E carb w/ Yost Power Tube
Extra-plate Energy One clutch kit with heavy duty spring ($85.00 from Energy One) These are the same plates used in the Rivera Racing Clutch kit
Annual dyno tuning in the spring
With this combo the bike will walk away from my friend's Stage 2 Twin-cam RK like it's stuck in 2nd gear.
I've had it up to a top speed of 134 mph on a 1 mile track (145 at 6200 rpm on the dyno). If course, I don't race it very often, so top speed isn't what I'm shooting for. That's mainly a factor of gearing, anyway.
In order to take better advantage of the head work, I'll be switching to a Woods W6 cam (or a W6H w/ roller rockers... not sure yet) this winter. It's got the same low duration numbers as the EV27, but higher lift for more flow.
That's my 2 cents..... Hope this helps! Have fun!
