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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1999 FXSTC , Softail custom


Any ideas on what I can do next to get a little
more performance.

What I'm looking for is something that can be done
relatively cheap and quick i.e. a "Bolt on" type
of enhancement, as opposed to major work.

Kinda like what I've done so far.

- added High flow kit on carb and re jetted
- added screaming eagle ignition
- added EV 27 cam
- added Krome werks straight pipes



So whats next ?

Considering;

- changing the solid rear wheel for a 40 spoke
stock rim.

I've been told this helps, ( I guess simply because
of the mass/weight of the solid wheel)
 

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Gus said:
1999 FXSTC , Softail custom

Any ideas on what I can do next to get a little
more performance.

What I'm looking for is something that can be done
relatively cheap and quick i.e. a "Bolt on" type
of enhancement, as opposed to major work.

Kinda like what I've done so far.

- added High flow kit on carb and re jetted
- added screaming eagle ignition
- added EV 27 cam
- added Krome werks straight pipes

So whats next ?

Considering;

- changing the solid rear wheel for a 40 spoke
stock rim.

I've been told this helps, ( I guess simply because
of the mass/weight of the solid wheel)
Hi Gus. Where in Vermont? I'm across the lake in Plattsburgh.

To answer your question, here are my recommendations. This is mostly based on my 25+ years of experience wrenching on Harleys. I'm sure you'll get more good input from others here on the site.

You seem to be on the right track, except for the exhaust. Straight pipes are worthless on an EVO unless you are racing it all the time at high rpms. You are losing a HUGE amount of torque at the bottom end of the rpm range using those pipes! If you want 2-2 pipes, I would recommend something like the V&H Straight Shots (with installed baffles), the Python III, or the Bartels system. For a cheaper route, try the Cycle Shack slip-ons. They aren't the best, but are a lot better than what you have.

If you really want to give it a kick in the pants, put on some good 2-1 pipes, like the Pro-Pipe or Thunderheader. It will feel like a completely different bike! I used to run straight pipes, and had a major dip in the torque curve below 3200 rpm. Once I switched to the V&H Pro-Pipe HS (w/ regular baffle), that dip disappeared completely and the bike pulls HARD from idle on up. Think about what engine speeds you are running in most of the time... usually 2000-3500 rpm. That's where you want the most torque, especially if you ride in the mountains a lot like I do. Leave the straight pipes for the Shovels and ironhead Sportys. Check out the following link. This site has a ton of good performance info, including extensive exhaust testing info!

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust_test_01.htm

You are running a good cam. The EV27 works very well and gives a lot of low-end and mid-range torque. Of course, you won't really feel that with the exhaust you are using. Remember, on a Harley, TORQUE is much more important than horsepower. I wouldn't even worry about HP numbers at all. Torque is what you want for a street-ridden bike. There are better cams out there, but the EV27 is a very good one. They do tend to make some valvetrain noise... more than stock. It's caused by the faster ramps and the extreme angle of the front exhaust pushrod to the lifter and rocker arm. This noise can also be minimized by using the stock gear with the new cam to reduce gear lash. Mine makes a lot of ticking noise, but I don't care. It runs great and besides... it's a Harley, meaning it's a noisy engine by design. So many people waste a lot of time and money trying to eliminate a little lifter noise that isn't hurting anythign.

Rule of thumb in choosing a cam..... for a street-ridden bike, you will want something with short duration and higher than stock lift. The longer the duration, the higher the engine speed has to be to get good torque.

Are you running the stock carb? When you say "Hi Flow kit", do you mean the air cleaner? What kind are you using? Personally, I prefer the S&S air cleaner. They work great on all bikes up to and including the big 120 inchers. Don't get duped into something like the Hypercharger. From all accounts I've heard/read, they actually hurt performance when the bike is moving. No matter that AC you are using, the best filter by far are from K&N. Nothing else compares..... :)

As for the rear wheel, that shouldn't be a concern as far as performance is concerned. The changes caused by the weight difference will make a negligible difference in "felt" power. It might add a very small amount of torque seen on the dyno, but I doubt you'd be able to feel much of a difference while riding. There are a lot of factors that show a slight improvement on the dyno that you won't feel on the street. Basically, unless you are racing it, or just like bragging about numbers ;), don't worry too much about minor weight changes.

Also, no matter what you do, and this is IMPORTANT, put it on a dyno for a good tuneup by an EXPERIENCED tuner. I have heard that there are a few good one in NH (not sure about VT), and there's a good one I go to at Barnyard Customs in Potsdam, NY. He only charges $50/hour and has squeezed torque and HP numbers in the 90s out of my EVO.

Here's what I've done to my 1995 Dyna so far to get those results....

Stock displacement
Stock pistons
Shaved heads and .030 gasket for compression ration of 9.8:1 (cost me $70 for machine work)
Stock heads ported and flowed using stock diameter Black Diamond valves and Comp Cam springs (Head work $400.00)
EV27 cam w/ stock lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods ($87 for pushrods... not the EZ install ones)
Dyna 2000i ignition with custom advance curve and stock HD (sometimes Champion) spark plugs
S&S Super E carb w/ Yost Power Tube
Extra-plate Energy One clutch kit with heavy duty spring ($85.00 from Energy One) These are the same plates used in the Rivera Racing Clutch kit
Annual dyno tuning in the spring

With this combo the bike will walk away from my friend's Stage 2 Twin-cam RK like it's stuck in 2nd gear. :D I've had it up to a top speed of 134 mph on a 1 mile track (145 at 6200 rpm on the dyno). If course, I don't race it very often, so top speed isn't what I'm shooting for. That's mainly a factor of gearing, anyway.

In order to take better advantage of the head work, I'll be switching to a Woods W6 cam (or a W6H w/ roller rockers... not sure yet) this winter. It's got the same low duration numbers as the EV27, but higher lift for more flow.

That's my 2 cents..... Hope this helps! Have fun! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello Todd,

I'm in the Burlington area.

Sorry for the mis name on the pipes, they do have baffling,
and I did have it Dyno'd, forgot the #'s exaclty but the
HP was like 78.

Carb is stock, but it has the "High flow kit"
done before I bought it, but its pretty standard.
And it was re jetted.

All in all I think it's tuned pretty good for what it has.

I'm ready to go to the next step.
 

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Gus said:
Hello Todd,

I'm in the Burlington area.

Sorry for the mis name on the pipes, they do have baffling,
and I did have it Dyno'd, forgot the #'s exaclty but the
HP was like 78.

Carb is stock, but it has the "High flow kit"
done before I bought it, but its pretty standard.
And it was re jetted.

All in all I think it's tuned pretty good for what it has.

I'm ready to go to the next step.
78 HP? That sounds about right for what you have. The torque should have been in the low to mid 80s. Remember... horsepower is not important, so don't even waste energy thinking about it... concentrate on making more TORQUE! Like I said before, if you really want a strong pulling bike, your next steps would be a better exhaust, preferably a 2-1 system. Get rid of the Thunderslide, if that's what the "High Flow" kit you have actually is... I've never heard of a "High Flow Kit".

The next step that is necessary for making more power is to up the compression ratio. Shaving the heads and using a thinner gasket is the best way to do it since you will retain the highly efficient stock pistons and will cost you a lot less $$. I'd advise against going above 10:1 or you will have detonation problems.

Make those changes, then get it dyno'd again, and you should have torque numbers somewhere in the upper 80s to mid 90s range, depending on who tunes it. That will put a smile on your face! :thumbsup:
 

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Change your cam to an ev-46. The ev-27 stops pulling at 5000 rpm.Want some more top end go ev-46.Just dynoed mine 1999 fxstc with ev-46,dyna ignition,mikuni carb,vance and hines big shots, everything else is stock and she ran 82 horse at 6200.Next start looking at you gearing if fast is what ya want.70 tooth sprocket will make her a bit quicker.
 

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Gus said:
Ya I guess what I was looking for was more in the mid range power.
What do you consider "mid-range"? If you are racing the bike, or riding above 3000 rpm 95% of the time, then yes, the EV46 will give you more mid range, and a little more top end, but you will lose of lot of the low end torque. The EV27's torque starts dropping off at 5000 rpm or so, but how often do you really ride with the engine speed that high? Not very often, I'd guess. If you do a lot of two-up riding or cruise through a lot of mountains, then you need to keep the duration under 240 if possible. The EV46 has 246 deg. duration... a bit much IMHO. Try for something with the same duration as the EV27, but with higher lift. That will keep your low end strong, but also add a bit more pull to the mid-range. The Woods W6 (or something with similiar numbers) would be a good choice.

Once again, I have to stress that horsepower is NOT very important... what you really want is the most torque in the rpm range you ride in most often. Everything else is wasted. If you concentrate on getting high HP numbers, you will most likely be disappointed with the bike's acceleration. You can't have both top and bottom end... it's just not possible. :)
 

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cubicinches said:
Change your cam to an ev-46. The ev-27 stops pulling at 5000 rpm.Want some more top end go ev-46.
I'm with you c.i. The EV-46 pulls extremely hard in mid-range, and at top-end/WOT you better be hangin' on tight. No complaints with the low end torque either. Most around here seem to favor the 27 though, and will provide plenty of technical details to back their preference. IMHO I would bet that some would change their minds after riding a comparable setup with a 46.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So it sounds like the 27 stops around 5K and the 46 at 6K is better,
just wondering how much more than 6K there is. ?

Isn't there a rev limiter that won't go much more than 6K ?
 

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Gus said:
So it sounds like the 27 stops around 5K and the 46 at 6K is better,
just wondering how much more than 6K there is. ?

Isn't there a rev limiter that won't go much more than 6K ?
I've ridden a comparable bike with the EV46 when I was shopping for a new cam and noticed a big difference in low end torque... there was a noticiable loss in torque below 3000 rpm. I don't ride at 6000 rpm every day, so the cam was useless to me. I (and most riders I know) rarely rev it above 4500 or so during normal shifting. On the dyno, the EV27 I'm using now is still making good power and torque up to 6200. No need to go any higher than that if I'm not racing it. Personally, I prefer to have the most torque in the range I "actually use" since I'm not interested in just bragging about numbers. After all, it's not a rice-rocket. But that's me... :)
 

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You could add a 85 inch kit , they run very well and are bolt on. The 100 kits are bore only and will make great numbers. mid teens on both hp/tq. Dunno what your budget is but the evo is a great base to work with. I have a 85 inch evo in a bad boy with 27 cams and it is a blast to ride.
 

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It all depends on what ya want to do, go fast on the street or make numbers on the dyno.I just know what works for me.I shift at 6200 when I'm racing someone, rev limiter is set at 6500.I also run a 70 tooth rear sprocket and Andrews close ratio gear set in my trans.Also Screamin Eagle race clutch.It runs pretty good for just bolt on parts and shes reliable.SPEED COST MONEY HOW FAST YA WANNA GO
 
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