V-Twin Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Always used Mobil 1 in my Harleys. Not the Vtwin stuff ,just the off the shelf stuff. Never had an oil related problem. Change the motor oil at 4000 miles most of the time, but seems like a waste of good oil. Old oil always has new oil feel to it if you know what I mean.Unlike regular motor oil after 4000 or 5000 miles that looks and feels like it needs to be changed.

Check out this site, has some interesting stuff on Mobil 1: neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

I know...I Know it is not a Harley motor but makes you think you may be waisting some money on oil changes :dunno: Need to let these guys do some testing on Harley oils.:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I really think any 20w50 synthetic oil will give you enough protection if you change it at 3000-4000 miles. But I also think you need a 75w90 gear oil in the trans. the MC oils just have a better additive package for air cooled engine applications.
 

·
2005 Road King Classic
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
lasher55 said:
Always used Mobil 1 in my Harleys. Not the Vtwin stuff ,just the off the shelf stuff. Never had an oil related problem. Change the motor oil at 4000 miles most of the time, but seems like a waste of good oil. Old oil always has new oil feel to it if you know what I mean.Unlike regular motor oil after 4000 or 5000 miles that looks and feels like it needs to be changed.

Check out this site, has some interesting stuff on Mobil 1: neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

I know...I Know it is not a Harley motor but makes you think you may be waisting some money on oil changes :dunno: Need to let these guys do some testing on Harley oils.:cheers:
You should be able to go 5000 miles on that oil minimum.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
48 Posts
Automotive oils in a MoCo V-Twin ?

I would use caution using automotive oil in the MoCo V-Twin. Most automotive oils are not the best for a wet clutch set up. Friction modifiers are the issue I believe.
I think Amsoil George could comment on this issue if he is around.
 

·
Life is short pray hard!
Joined
·
131 Posts
Unless you have a sportster your engine oil is not in contact with the clutch. Your clutch is lubricated by your primary oil, and I would agree that only motorcycle oil or primary chain case oil should used in that application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Ive been using synthetics since about 1978 when I used it in a four wheeler differential. It was fab then, and I believe it is superior now. All the bad rap is mostly due to using the wrong weight or having bad seals or weak seals(old), or not letting the break-in complete enough.
When one is putting so much money into a loved project, I can see why they may be hesitant with all the rumors. But the fact is that synthetics, when researched well and used properly, are absolutely unbeatable.
Guys spend thousands for parts & hop ups, then quibble over a 20$ oil change cost. Dont compute in my book. I have it in my 94 FLHTCU, and my 02 Explorer, my wifes 98 Escort, and an old 88 ranger 4 cyl. The ranger has 192000 miles on it, the escort has 130000 mi, and the others are too low miles to bother mentioning. But gas mileage is great, wear is great, no oil burning or loss, no leaks. I chnge at 5000 mi on each, regardless of time.
Use your head and use the right weights on each & pick your brand, it really doesnt matter too much which brand.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
Plus, I think there's more moly in the car oil? I have very positive story about swapping Sport Trans fluid for Kal-Gard moly trans fluid I'll share at another time.

:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Only use the Moble 1 in the motor side of my Ultra...still use HD primary and HD trans in those holes. Change Primary oil every 4k on mine...lots of wear going on in there with those clutch plates breaking down a little each time..that stuff looks pretty nasty after 4000 miles.:thumbsdn: Trans every 5K but think this could go a little longer as well..always looks the same coming out as going in. Very little heat or fuel degradation going on in the tranny:hmmm:

But at 21 bucks for 5 Qts of 15-50 at Wal Mart for the Mobil 1 or 12 bucks a Qt for the V-Twin stuff....I will stick with the regular Mobil 1:brows:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
I always use a product with some moly (usually kal-Gard) for my clutch-chaincase and trans, ditto for Mobil-1 car oil in the motor. I started doing it years ago to keep Sportster trans parts from galling (swapping metal)

I just got back from a road trip with my 06 Street Bob that I changed all the fluids in at 275 miles, the last 75 of which were fast hwy miles. The Bob now has a little over 3000 miles on it and everything looks good. the Mobil-1 15/50 is a golden buttery color indicating well seated rings and correct fuel mixtures ( to the degree oil can indicate that )

The trans has the full amount of SuperTech Full Synthetic 75W-140 extreme pressure gear lubricant...

The chaincase has a mixture of the SuperTech 75W-140 (16 oz) and (12 oz) of Polaris Premium Gearcase Lubricant... Quote: 100% synthetic friction reducing extreme pressure film protection for severe operating temperatures. Minimizes chain and sprocket wear while preventing rust, oxidation and corrosion of internal chaincase and transmission components. :unQuote

This is a thin lubricant that I added more as a experiment to evaluate clutch release as anything else. I did know I would be riding in near freezing temps though and thinner wouldn't hurt. In fact I have run ATF in the past in the chaincase with good results and much better clutch release... On the way home I met some guys from Portland OR heading to the east coast the long way along the US- Mexico border... The big guy, a 7 ft clone of Mr Clean told me that's all he uses in his chaincase for as long as he can remember...he was riding a very clean FLH Shovel with 140,000 miles on it...who would be dumb enough to argue anyway. Not advocating one way or the other, just saying moly on the clutch plates is nothing to be afraid of and the motors and trans love it.

The SuperTech 75W-140 has a warning regarding clutches except for topping off, but like I said It doesn't mean jack to me and I use it in the rear end of my Chevy with Limited slip too with excellent results.

The main reason I chose the lubricants that I have is purely practical...I can get them at any Wal-Mart anywhere and they are superior to what the Bob was shipped with.

Now if I could just do something about that 35 miles to the gallon hwy...taller gearing for sure is in the future...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The new Dynas have 6 speeds now right?...should be getting better than 35 MPG. Gunna have to keep that thing under 90 I guess :hystria: Just started using the SuperTech 75W 140 in my Ultra tranny about a 1000 miles ago...probably in my head, but seems to shift smoother.

My new plan on oil changes is for all 3 holes at the first of the season and not again till the end of the season...think I am wasting time and money with the 4k to 5k thing. Average 10k to 12k a year on the bike (most of it in the summer) with very little in town riding so just I just dont see a problem.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
lasher55 said:
The new Dynas have 6 speeds now right?...should be getting better than 35 MPG. Gunna have to keep that thing under 90 I guess :hystria: Just started using the SuperTech 75W 140 in my Ultra tranny about a 1000 miles ago...probably in my head, but seems to shift smoother.

My new plan on oil changes is for all 3 holes at the first of the season and not again till the end of the season...think I am wasting time and money with the 4k to 5k thing. Average 10k to 12k a year on the bike (most of it in the summer) with very little in town riding so just I just dont see a problem.
I called everybody in the world looking for a trans pulley with two more teeth, no luck! If one doesn't happen soon I'll have to make one to go with the rear international pulley that has two less teeth. That way I can use the stock length belt too. The motor can easily pull that gearing and once I have that, the 2-1, ECM and intake taken care of it should be a whole lot better. About the only time I can stand to keep it under 85 is when the winds pick way up, :cheers:
 

·
Addicted to American Iron
Joined
·
460 Posts
KKRider said:
I called everybody in the world looking for a trans pulley with two more teeth, no luck! If one doesn't happen soon I'll have to make one to go with the rear international pulley that has two less teeth. That way I can use the stock length belt too. The motor can easily pull that gearing and once I have that, the 2-1, ECM and intake taken care of it should be a whole lot better. About the only time I can stand to keep it under 85 is when the winds pick way up, :cheers:
Why not just pull the 32 T front pulley off and put a 34 T front pulley on. On my Fatboy I pulled the 32T off and went the other way and put a 30T on.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
davemhughes said:
Why not just pull the 32 T front pulley off and put a 34 T front pulley on. On my Fatboy I pulled the 32T off and went the other way and put a 30T on.
It's all different on the dyna 6 spd, different splines, larger o.d., etc. No one has tooled up yet :cheers:
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top