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Turboprop has that pipe on a TC in his FXR. Might want to message him.
Mild twin cam FXR
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Will do. Pipe fits fine. It’s just the useless cone on the TC cam cover that’s in the way. I’ll have ample room once it’s done. I will need to find or fab a bracket though so I’ll see if he has any hints.
Thanks
Thanks
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436 Posts
The Bassani Road Rage that is on my TC124 in my red/white FXR does not have any interference issues with the OEM TC cam cover or anything else. Daryl Bassani checked fitment with many FXRs to include those with big block TC engines. Pics of my red/white FXR are all over the net.
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47 Posts
Might be an aftermarket cam cover on my bike. Here’s the issue.
I have a performance machine cover on order that should deal with the issue nicely.
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72 Posts
Are you holding the pipe away from the cam cover when installing? When I install my RR3 I pull the pipe away from the cam cover at the bottom all the way with light force and use an extension in the other hand to snug up the nuts on the exhaust stud. While keeping the pipe held in that position I slowly tighten all nuts 0.25-0.5 turns at a time until ready for a torque wrench.
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I wrestled with it a bunch. To me the pipe should flow around and under the cone of the cam cover not over it as it seems to. That’s when I said to hell with it and took the cover off. Plenty of room that way and bolts up nicely. I’ll have the new cam cover soon and start back to work shortly. I’m still stalled out for a bit as I’m waiting for the ramjet kit to clear customs.
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Mine is on an evo not a TC so there is some difference, but the nose cone is not centered in that bend. The pipe is definitely closer at the bottom than the top. I know the S&S billet nose cones hit with the RR3. Also, I don't necessarily hold it held out as I torque the exhaust nuts, but hold it there until the nuts are tight enough to hold its own weight out away from the engine. The pipe is not in the correct location if it is hanging under its own weight and then tightened up.
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47 Posts
The cone on the TC, while being useless, is also pretty centered to the case. The Evo I’d say is slightly to the side so I can see it fitting better.... it looks like I’m missing only millimetres so if I really needed to I could mill the TC cam cover. I got a good deal on the new one and it will give the motor a fresh look.
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47 Posts
I took another look at the pipes and I did get them to fit with the stock cone. My issues was I was expecting to put the pipes in place at the cylinder heads then let them swing down into position. What you actually have to do is place the pipes under the cone and then swing the top of the headers into position. This gave me the clearance I needed.
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I also got a few parts in the mail (thank you Hardcore Cso I placed them on to start thinking fitment as well as decide on controls. Mids won as I’ll be going for a bit more of a forward position. I will barely have any risers to speak of as I hate the T bar fad, and this isn’t the type of bike I’ll be putting apes on.
I’m still waiting on the Ramjet crossmember kit in the mail as well as my rear ohlins.The kit has been stuck at customs for almost a month. Ramjet has been great though this is just part of the game when you’re ordering parts to Canada from the US. It’s holding me up from the major fabrication stuff but it’s a blessing in disguise as it’s given me time to decide on a few more details.
I also got a few parts in the mail (thank you Hardcore Cso I placed them on to start thinking fitment as well as decide on controls. Mids won as I’ll be going for a bit more of a forward position. I will barely have any risers to speak of as I hate the T bar fad, and this isn’t the type of bike I’ll be putting apes on.
I’m still waiting on the Ramjet crossmember kit in the mail as well as my rear ohlins.The kit has been stuck at customs for almost a month. Ramjet has been great though this is just part of the game when you’re ordering parts to Canada from the US. It’s holding me up from the major fabrication stuff but it’s a blessing in disguise as it’s given me time to decide on a few more details.
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47 Posts
One of the things that's been keeping me up at night is the front end. I had mentioned earlier that I picked up a nice 39mm front end from a sportster 48. After getting it bolted in I noticed right away that the fork lock was in the way. Well, I could cut it.... but then there's the steering stop too, too short, I could weld a piece of metal to the existing stop to fix that but to I really want to, the cleaner and preferred solution to me is to get an aftermarket triple tree. What's been bugging me are the brakes. Ideally I want to go dual, but these legs are single. I could find a new slider or a whole new dual fork if I wanted and be done with it, I already have a set of dual calipers and master ready to go but stock triple trees, at least the standard narrowglides, just aren't the beefy look I want for this build. I could go with a bigger single brake like a brembo or beringer but now I'm adding some good money to some stock ish single brake 39mm forks. All this back and forth to say that I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a Gigacycle Corsair kit. Anyone looking for some 39mm single disk legs and trees let me know!
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47 Posts
Here's another one I;ve been debating. I was hoping to get a deviant swingarm but it looks like that might not fit my timeline. Track dynamics seems to be hell to deal with from what I've read and I'd like to run this rear brake because I have it as well as the master cylinder for it (I will be changing the placement of the bracket to clear the later master cylinder and reservoir).
My bike is a 94 which means the upper shock mounts are closer to the "triangle" but the older shock mount position is also there. With the upper shock mount position moved back it means that retaining the bagger shock mount will actually move the shock slightly more vertical than original which should actually improve shock performance I'm thinking. I'm no expert, I'll have to take some measurements and see when my rear shocks arrive. If this works I'll just slap on a set of the older fender struts and call it a day. Any input is appreciated.
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Last but not least of my deliberations are wheels and axles. (Sorry no pictures here). The brake I want to run is for a 3/4 axle which is convenient. The easy solution is to go with a bare knuckle performance bagger-3/4" axle kit. Front axle is not an issue since the Corsair kit will run with a 3/4 axle as well. My real dilemma is I want to run a 17" spoke rear wheel (Chrome spoke/black rim) and 19" spoke front. I'd like to find these at a reasonable price for 3/4 axles. Anyone know where I can find that? I cannot seem to find anything but 16" rears.
My bike is a 94 which means the upper shock mounts are closer to the "triangle" but the older shock mount position is also there. With the upper shock mount position moved back it means that retaining the bagger shock mount will actually move the shock slightly more vertical than original which should actually improve shock performance I'm thinking. I'm no expert, I'll have to take some measurements and see when my rear shocks arrive. If this works I'll just slap on a set of the older fender struts and call it a day. Any input is appreciated.
Last but not least of my deliberations are wheels and axles. (Sorry no pictures here). The brake I want to run is for a 3/4 axle which is convenient. The easy solution is to go with a bare knuckle performance bagger-3/4" axle kit. Front axle is not an issue since the Corsair kit will run with a 3/4 axle as well. My real dilemma is I want to run a 17" spoke rear wheel (Chrome spoke/black rim) and 19" spoke front. I'd like to find these at a reasonable price for 3/4 axles. Anyone know where I can find that? I cannot seem to find anything but 16" rears.
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47 Posts
Was hoping for a solution which I didn’t have to lace and true a wheel. Thanks for the info. What are your thoughts about using the rear shock position? I suppose I can always cut and weld new mounts but I’ll eventually get an aluminum swing arm.
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47 Posts
Move the upper shock mount to the 86 and earlier position.
In turn retain the FLH swingarm shock mount position instead of welding on new mounting points.
From the looks of it this would actually put the shocks slightly more vertical than the stock position and stock swingarm but only by a few degrees.
I shouldn’t drink and post
In turn retain the FLH swingarm shock mount position instead of welding on new mounting points.
From the looks of it this would actually put the shocks slightly more vertical than the stock position and stock swingarm but only by a few degrees.
I shouldn’t drink and post
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436 Posts
You are leaving out key information like what year group FLH swingarm, will this bike have bags, particularly, RP, RD or convertible bags, etc.
As for shocks, you and I probably dont wear the same size pants or even the same style. Same applies to shocks. All three of my FXRs have a swingarm from an '02-'07 bagger and use the forward shock mount on the frame. This required a custom set of shocks as the length and geometry was way outside the factory layout. To get the length correct I had to put wheels on the bike and a scissor jack under the rear of the frame. I had to take about eight measurements on the bike once I had the height where I wanted it. I suspect you will have to do the same as your configuration is way outside the factory layout. The bags will add an additional complication as the shocks will have to fit within the channel on the back side of the bags. The odds of finding an off the rack shock with the correct length, travel, spring rate and valving will be a needle in haystack. I used RaceTech. But, there are many that have done similar things and swear that shocks from (whatever bike) fit perfectly and are 'The best'. You'll figure it out.
As for shocks, you and I probably dont wear the same size pants or even the same style. Same applies to shocks. All three of my FXRs have a swingarm from an '02-'07 bagger and use the forward shock mount on the frame. This required a custom set of shocks as the length and geometry was way outside the factory layout. To get the length correct I had to put wheels on the bike and a scissor jack under the rear of the frame. I had to take about eight measurements on the bike once I had the height where I wanted it. I suspect you will have to do the same as your configuration is way outside the factory layout. The bags will add an additional complication as the shocks will have to fit within the channel on the back side of the bags. The odds of finding an off the rack shock with the correct length, travel, spring rate and valving will be a needle in haystack. I used RaceTech. But, there are many that have done similar things and swear that shocks from (whatever bike) fit perfectly and are 'The best'. You'll figure it out.
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47 Posts
Thanks for this. No bags!
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47 Posts
Sorry for the lack of postings but there’s been little progress to report since I’ve been waiting on parts to arrive. The ramjet TC kit finally got released from customs.
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The parts fit up nicely. Should make for some easy welding.
One thing I’ve been trying to figure out before welding it all together is mid placement. With the clutch cable in the way it’s not possible to put the Dyna mids in there without the clutch cable running on the bracket constantly....
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looking for suggestions on this one. I’m hoping to have the bike on wheels next week so that I can get a feel of foot position and to see if mid controls are really what I want.
The parts fit up nicely. Should make for some easy welding.
One thing I’ve been trying to figure out before welding it all together is mid placement. With the clutch cable in the way it’s not possible to put the Dyna mids in there without the clutch cable running on the bracket constantly....
looking for suggestions on this one. I’m hoping to have the bike on wheels next week so that I can get a feel of foot position and to see if mid controls are really what I want.
Won't an FXR side-cover work (same bolt pattern) allowing your clutch cable to exit/enter from/into a more downward position (?).....current cover not correct.
This would allow the clutch-cable to run under those Dyna "mids" that you want to install......but it would be a good idea to check/mark the location of your mid-brackets now (with engine/transmission installed brake master-cylinder, etc.) prior to welding.
This would allow the clutch-cable to run under those Dyna "mids" that you want to install......but it would be a good idea to check/mark the location of your mid-brackets now (with engine/transmission installed brake master-cylinder, etc.) prior to welding.
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436 Posts
The transmission end cap is wrong. That bike needs the one that orientates the cable at a lower, more downward angle. OEM units are usually in shitty condition and uber expensive. The one from V-Twin is nice fits very well, and has a much lower cost.
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