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Hi all!

I have a 2006 Glide that has been giving me issues for a month and would like some input as paying for a dealer to work on it isn't an option right now.

The reader digest version is that after I've replaced the stator, rotor, voltage regulator and battery my bike goes into limp mode is seems. I remove the battery cables to reset the ECM and it seems to work until I go to ride it. Here's the real stumper, if I unplug the stator it runs perfect!!! Stator checks at 43 AC volts at 2000 rpm and there is zero continuity from pins to frame. *

order of events*
1. the volt gauge was spiking and the check engine light came on so I replaced the regulator
2. On a long ride the volts were dropping until the lights were dimming so I put a new battery in.
3. Riding for the next few days the volts continued to drop and I realized the battery wasn't charging so I replaced the stator. One of the coils were fried.
4 The bike at this point is still in limp mode so I figured the new regulator was bad. The dealer gave me a new regulator with HD forcing them too. 1 year warranty from HD
5 Same issues so I tore everything back apart to make sure the stator was installed properly and I noticed the spline in the rotor was gone so I replaced the rotor.
All parts were replaced with OEM HD
 

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There is a trouble shooting ladder for the charging system. You might want to grab the manual and run through it step by step.
Sage advise. Do this instead of throwing parts at it.

Sent from here to there.
 

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What code is the ecm throwing? It's charging now? I wouldn't do anything till I retreive the codes and at least consider what the ecm is trying to tell you. Work back from the code if you can.
 

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for the one hour labor at the dealer the diagnostics is fast. they do it every day. you spent on one part the dealer would have set you straight. do not be scared. communicate with the dealer .
 

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Run through all ground connections clean and tighten. If it were my guess I've seen many that need a direct ground wire 8ga wire from regular to motor ground. If it's fine when you unplug the stator its because that's when your pulling amps. Shits going wild because it's pulling ground from your electrical harness. Everything's fits this guess.
 

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That's why cars with rubber motor mounts have a ground wire going from engine to chassis and/ or the battery.
 

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[QUOTE="ArcAngel, post: 5903125, member: 105954"
If it were my guess I've seen many that need a direct ground wire 8ga wire from regular to motor ground.
[/QUOTE]

What does this mean?
 

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Hopalong
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Some add an 8 gauge wire ( approximately 1/8" thick conductor+ sheathing) directly from the battery ground side to the mounting bolt of the regulator, with a star washer between the terminal end and the regulator housing, to give a better bite & ground connection.
 

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Yes run wire from case of regulator to motor case and make sure your negative cable from batery is bolted and clean to motor. Should fix hopefully
 
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