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It's brake time. Thinking about trying Lyndall racing brake pads.Would like to hear some opinions
 

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Hard compound pads. A lot of guys really like them but I prefer softer compounds that don't last as long but are a little easier on your rotors. I change the pads every time I change tires anyway.
 

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I have run both, the lyndall's will hold up longer and stop a little better as well as less brake dust, but they are tougher on the disc. don't forget to chamfer the leading edge to stop noise
 

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not sober all the time
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I put Lyndall pads on the front and back of my '04 FLHRSI. I tried everything to stop the squealing on the front and finally pulled 'em and put Harley pads on the front to stop the noise. Now I have a couple of good spares for the rear.
 

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I like Lyndall's myself and haven't ant problem with the rotors and they do stop alot better than the stock pads without the dust problems.
 

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I have a 2010 Limited and the stock set-up is the best I've ever had on Harley. Lyndalls stop even better ?? WoW! That's impressive.. Changed front at 32,000 and rear at 43,000 miles.. Stock pads..
 

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I have a 2010 Limited and the stock set-up is the best I've ever had on Harley. Lyndalls stop even better ?? WoW! That's impressive.. Changed front at 32,000 and rear at 43,000 miles.. Stock pads..
As much as I hit the twisties hard, my brakes don't last that long.

few weeks ago I did a 100 mile ride on the twistest road you could dream up (north Carolina mountains) I have stock pads on now.
Friggen bike is covered with brake dust, and you don't want to leave that on your chrome

One fun ass and tiring ride tho :woohoo:
 

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Lyndall Z-Plus for me. I had em on my 04 Fatty before she was stolen. I will get them on on my new bike when it is time.
 

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Read some older threads. Lots of discussion on them. I just bought 3 pairs of Lyndall Z-plus from a fellow who swears by them. I also got rebuild kits for all MCs and calipers. Gonna have brand new brakes. The manual says to blow out the pistons with air pressure. Any suggestions on how get them out without a compressor. Maybe I'll just go ahead and bite the bullet, been wanting one for a long time, anyway. BTW, the manual also calls for a special tool for brake caliper piston removal, the stealer won't sell it to you. They'll sell you the parts, $150 just for the kits, so you can do your own work, but they won't sell you the tools they say you need to do the job. F**k 'em. I'll find a way. Hell, I couldn't even figure out what the tool is supposed to do.
 

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These pads are not harder on your rotors than HD's pads? They are easier on them and you stop better. I had the gold pads on both my 06 and 08 ultra and loved them.

Road from dry roads to rain with no problems at all.

If you follow these instructions your calipers will be clean and your brakes won't squeek

http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm
 

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I have used about 60 or so sets of lyndalls.Great pads, everyone loves them, but i have had some bad squealers. Maybe 10 sets. A swap back to new stock pads or EBC HH pads always cure it. FWIW, lyndall always stands behind their product 110%.
 

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The manual says to blow out the pistons with air pressure. Any suggestions on how get them out without a compressor. Maybe I'll just go ahead and bite the bullet, been wanting one for a long time, anyway. BTW, the manual also calls for a special tool for brake caliper piston removal, the stealer won't sell it to you. They'll sell you the parts, $150 just for the kits, so you can do your own work, but they won't sell you the tools they say you need to do the job. F**k 'em. I'll find a way. Hell, I couldn't even figure out what the tool is supposed to do.
I've rebuilt a few calipers before. What the air does. You dis-connect the brake line from the calper and blow air into the port. Pushes out the piston.

If the piston is out a bit from normal wear of the pads. Grab the top edge with channel lock plyers. Slowly twist back and forth while pulling. I leave the dust shield alone. Work it out.

Since the caliper is made of aluminum and the piston is usually made of steel. An old calipers boar would get egged shaped from use. Not so noticable with the piston more inside the boar with new shoes. As in sticking from being cock-eyed the more the piston is extended out from worn pads.

Haven't taken apart a Harly brake piston yet. From my experience on rebuilding. I've mostly found 2 rubber O rings at the bottom of the piston. If you see the O rings are flat topped worn, time to change them out.

Might want to swap out the pads sooner when worn around 2/3rds way to help with an egged out boar. Hope this helped.
 

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Ride a bike with Lyndalls for a few hundred miles last week. Grippy, but noisy as all get out. I'll stick with street compound Hawk pads. Been running them for years on my autos and they always stop fine for me with minimal dust.
 

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Thanks for the pointers, Dave. About to get started right now.
 

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Every set of Lyndall pads I have installed on both of my bikes squeal, and nothing has helped. I've chamfered the leading edge in the past, and the last time I did a complete rebuild front and rear. Still no change.

I have to say, they stop a whole lot better than the OEM pads so I just put up with the noise.
 

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I have run Lyndall pads for years. If they squeal, it is not the pads, the rotors have gotten a glaze on them. Have the rotors turned, or use some sandpaper and break the glaze. They will not squeal anymore. ;)
 

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Every set of Lyndall pads I have installed on both of my bikes squeal, and nothing has helped. I've chamfered the leading edge in the past, and the last time I did a complete rebuild front and rear. Still no change.

I have to say, they stop a whole lot better than the OEM pads so I just put up with the noise.
I cleaned the calipers, pistons, etc, chamfered the pads, deglazed the rotors, put that goop on the back of the pads, bla bla bla. I'd get peace and quiet for a few miles then back to the squealing. Although the Lyndall pads stop the bike with less effort, I can still skid the front and/or rear tire with factory pads. The tire is the limit of stopping efficiency, not the pads. So I choose to avoid the squeal and the battle to cure it by using factory pads on the front. Doesn't make me right, just my preference.
 

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Seem to remember. On squeals. Automotive issues and not bikes. All replys are correct.

The more metalic pieces in the pads compound will make it squeal, gripper. Then theres the squeal from the pad not being flat against the piston when applyed. Pad moves twisty back and forth hence the noise. Ever see on automotive pads the thin metal strip? Takes the place of the goop.

Just my dum idea on this.
 

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Been using Lyndall Z-Plus pads on front and rear brakes for several years with no noise or dust. Twice a year, I clean the brake calipers per instructions Lyndall web site. Occassionally, if I get on my brakes hard for an extended period (like twisties), the rotors and pads will need to be deglazed. I like them better than the OEM and EBC pads.
 

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Lyndall Gold with PM calipers here and no squeal whatsoever! Best pads I ever had,

Armin.
 
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