Bob Wood will definitely have something for you. I run a W6H in my evo FXD. VERY strong low and mid range. Probably not the right cam for your bagger. Ask Bob what to use. I can't remember which cam Bob recommends for baggers. I think it's a TW8 (or W8 for twincam).
Know that his load ramps are very aggressive, especially if you go with the high lift versions. There was no price difference between a W6 and a W6H, but DAMN! That's a lot of work to accomodate a .590 lift. Had to go with adj pushrods, roller rockers, clearance my tappet blocks, clearance my crankcase around the pinion gear to make room for that porkchop sumbitch, performance springs and associated hardware, and new tappets just in case. For a TC I think you'd also have to clearance rocker box lids. And the valve train is kind of noisy even when perfectly set up. Doesn't hurt anything. I don't think the high lift is intended for airflow. I think the "H" cams require more lift because the snappy load ramps would loft the tappet into free space without a tall cam under it. The .500 lift version of his cams may have a gentler ramp. Obviously this cam doesn't need .590 lift for airflow because it starts running out of air at about 5K, though it'll still pull strong well after that. Very tight LSA so you can't expect high revving power, but that's not what you're asking for.
Also, the cranking pressure can be significant due to early closing intake. Bob said 10:1 would be great with the W6H, but I don't recommend anything above 9.75:1 (I can only speak for W6H with light bike and ported head with big valves). My bike pinged in E. S.D. with crappy 87 octane, fully loaded plus some, windshield, 110-deg ambient, 75 mph into a headwind, trying to go up gentle grades on highway. Backed off timing and poured in some booster but it didn't completely solve it. Worst conditions, I know. So I consider mine right where I want it. With 90+ octane I'd probably have been fine. My cylinder pressure check with oil on the rings was 185 lb, which is right at the ragged edge of pump gas I think. Not sure what it would be with dry rings after breakin. Haven't checked since I put it together. Also, I may be better off without the big-assed valves and ported heads. I say that because I didn't ping at 80+ mph no matter what. Only at lower revs around 75 did it ping. Above 80 the improved turbulence of higher revs/flow increased my margin to detonation. It seems strange to think you could "lug" an engine at 75 mph but that's what is happening. So far as heads go read the Nightrider site if you want to see what stock heads on a well built engine can do.
Learn about quench (squish). It matters. If you're doing a top end at the same time (you are getting your CR up, aren't you?) you might as well tighten up your quench clearance. Set it around .035-.040 to improve turbulence and increase your margin to detonation. You gotta shorten your cylinders or use thinner gaskets to do this. You can shave your heads all day long and all you'll do is increase your CR and decrease valve clearance. Trim the base of your cylinders if you can find someone with a mandrel to hold the cyls. Trimming the base trues them up. They get wallowed out into a not-flat condition at the bases after a lot of miles. If your bike is new-ish you can trim the tops just as well. And for crying out loud don't use straight pipes or 2" dia pipes if you want torque. You probably already knew that.
Regards,
Chilly
