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Discussion Starter #1
Just switched to the V&H ProPipe HS on my 04 Road King after reading numerous posts about how great it sounds and performs. It may not be the #1 all time performer, but it sounds better than anything I have heard and definitely adds a whole bunch of "hang on" factor to the performance -

EXCEPT

between about 2500 and 3000 RPM, the bike feels like it's missing badly and has even thrown code P1353 (Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI) 4 times in about 150 miles of riding. Cleared the codes and continued, only to get the check engine light again. From 2000 up to 2500 she purrs nicely, and above 2500 does better. Around 3000 when the cams kick in, it is downright sassy.

A couple of threads suggest that the ProPipe flows so well the problem is likely that I'm running WAAAY to lean. Could that cause the 1353 code? I'm running a PCIII USB and loaded the canned map that is closest to my build. I've attached a screenshot of the map. Yanked the plugs, and the rear plug is stark white, the front plug only very slightly darker.

Assuming that my suspicion is correct and I have to add fuel at 2500 and above, how much is a good starting point? Should the cylinder trim be changed? The obvious solution is to dyno it but there seem to be no competent dyno guys around that don't want throw your bike on the dyno for 6 hours in exchange for their next mortgage payment.

Anyone had any experience with tweaking these?

04 Road King
95" BB Kit
Flat Top Pistons
SE Air Cleaner
SE211 Cams
V&H ProPipe HS
Stock Heads (until this winter)
 

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Sounds like you have the solution to your problem - you have to add more fuel when you put on a better-flowing pipe. Nothing is wrong with the pipe. You just haven't completed the process.
 

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Baffle mods

I made good experience with closing one and later a second row of the 4 rows of holes of the standard baffle. A few hose clamps would do it. Took care of the torque dip down in the 2500 - 3000 range. After that check the code, plugs etc. I would not start messing with the PC setting without having tried this first. Got this trick from some of the resident experts and verified it on the dyno myself.
 

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Hellbound Train
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The problem isn't the pipe (Propipe HS is one of the best), it's the tuning. Do you have a printout from the dyno.
 

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Baffle mods comp

Here is a comparison between the Propipe without modifying the baffle and with one row of holes closed. Can't find the run with 2 holes closed. It however showed a steeper slope of the curve and topped out at 103 tq at 4100 rpm. All settings are identical, slight difference in the needle only.
Anyway, it doesn't matter since I blew up the motor and have to put a new one together........



Blue curve => 1 row closed
red curve => stock

Sorry about the pic quality, my screenshot software leaves a lot to be desired. If you guys have the dynojet runviewer download, I'll post the run files for ya'
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for all of the great info. I'm pretty good at stupid wrenching tricks so I really appreciate the tips.

I think I'll try adding a bunch of fuel in the 2500-3000 range then remove it in increments if that's too rich. The map has a dropoff of fuel at 2500 compared to the fuel delivered at 2000.

Plugging at least one row of holes also seems like it has a positive effect. I'll give that a shot as well.
No doubt I need to get it to a dyno as soon as I can find someone who knows WTF they're doing.
 

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Mikie said:
The obvious solution is to dyno it but there seem to be no competent dyno guys around that don't want throw your bike on the dyno for 6 hours in exchange for their next mortgage payment.

QUOTE]
Great neighborhood huh?
Have held up my build for two years til I can find a competent tuner within a 300 mile radius...
Guess that's never gonna happen so gonna do my build over the winter and if I gotta go 600-1000 miles to get it tuned, i will in the spring....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I live in the Seattle area and there's not much around here in the way of good, honest indy wrenches. Not sure how you feel about stealer's service departments, but I stopped into Bears and Roses HD in Bend, OR with a minor problem while on a road trip and they impressed the hell out of me with their service and expertise. They also charge about 40% less for service work than any dealer in this area. One of the guys I was with on that trip actually rode all the way there (330 miles) to get his scoot serviced. Not sure how close Bend is to you, but it seems to be worth considering.
 

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I have scratched so many local(100 mile radius) stealers and indys off my list to ever go back to. Bend doesn't sound so bad, just developed a problem yesterday. Maybe depending on what code I get tomorrow when I do the code thing, I'll take it there. About 160-180 miles...I think :(
 

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Keep in mind if you run a Propipe lean, at highway speeds and heavy (ie; 2 up with gear) you can get some yellowing of the pipe about 10" - 12" forward of the exhaust outlet. Get that lean burn fixed asap.

Semper Fi,
Steve...Pensacola
USMC 1972 - 2003

1995 FXDWG...with Propipe
 

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Question for ViennaHog..........

Which version of the V&H ProPipe do you have? and which baffle?

Do you have the long baffle or short? Street or Competition?

Lastly, which rows of the baffle did you close? the inlet side or the outlet side?

Thanks!!
 

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FOG
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Totenkopf said:
Which version of the V&H ProPipe do you have? and which baffle?

Do you have the long baffle or short? Street or Competition?

Lastly, which rows of the baffle did you close? the inlet side or the outlet side?

Thanks!!
My indie runs a pretty good dyno shop. I have a '03 FXD (Carb)with Stage 1 upgrade. I don't know what jets he used. He put two hose clamps over the two last rows of inlet holes on the street baffle of my ProPipe HS. He said it dynoed well (I don't know the numbers) and he was pleased with the mod. He has an extra ProPipe HS street baffle with a probe hole drilled in it which he uses when he's got a bike with a ProPipe on the dyno.

I'm pleased with it....runs and sounds great and has no decel popping or pipe yellowing. I got 47.1 mpg on a 120 mile back road putt at 55-65 mph last Thursday.

T113
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have the ProPipe HS with the street baffle. For now, I put a clamp over the last row of holes (inlet side - side closest to the motor). Is that the correct row?

I also added fuel to the PCIII map in the 2500-3000 RPM range, 2% - 20% throttle position. I think I'd rather have it running a bit rich and remove fuel than to run it lean and risk trashing the pistons.

I may also add another clamp to cover a second row of holes on the baffle, depending upon how the test ride goes. Waiting for the monsoon season to pause long enough to get her out for a test run.
 

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FOG
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Mikie said:
I have the ProPipe HS with the street baffle. For now, I put a clamp over the last row of holes (inlet side - side closest to the motor). Is that the correct row?
My indie put the hose clamps over the two rows of holes closest to other end of the baffle....toward the fiberglass end or outlet side....away from the engine. Sorry....I apparently misunderstood your location question. I don't know if it makes any difference which holes are covered.

While I don't know a thing about FI adjustments, I'd assume a little rich would be a lot better than lean.

T113
 

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PNW Indie

Mikie - I am in the Pacific Northwest as well and looking for a good tuner. Wondering if you have heard anything regarding R&R American Cycles’ capabilities? They are in Auburn, WA. I have only been discussing future mods to my ’04 FXSTI with them but have been impressed with the wealth of information they have been able to share. Subsequent research has led me to believe they do know what they are talking about.

Ride safe.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I'm familiar with them and have been to their shop a couple of times.

I don't want to make any general statements about them, but I know 2 guys who went there for dyno work and they were not happy with the results, plus it was quite expensive. It may be that I just know of 2 exceptional cases, but based on what I heard I personally won't be showing up there any time soon. I heard they recently got a 'new' dyno, so perhaps they have improved.

They seem to be really nice people.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On the right track

Snuck out of work early and put the clamps over the outer two rows of holes on the baffles. Went for a test ride and things are really looking up. 'Stumbles' a lot less and best of all - no codes. Traffic was so bad I really couldn't do a complete test ride, but hit a side street and was doing 60 in a 35 before I knew it. So smooth I couldn't even tell.

Need to work on the map a little bit and I think it will be fine until I find a dyno. The 211's have quite a bit of overlap (40) so the pipes are probably scavenging much more efficiently and maybe even robbing the intake a little.

Absolutely can't beat the sound and quality of the ProPipe IMHO. Many thanks to everyone who helped out.
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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Hey Mikie, do you have the packing in the baffle too? I'm trying to get my PP's tuned up too.
Thanks!!
 

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I don't be Mikie, but I'll answer about my PP. Yup....got the last two rows of baffle holes covered and running the packing. I like it.....runs great.

T113
 

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Got it thanks! Coming back from Myrtle Beach I yellow'd the pipe right where Steveusmc said it would. Will covering the holes help or should I fatten up my carb a touch? I have the Sporty needle and a 190 main. BB, Cams and heads too.
 
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