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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the lifters in my fxr a few months ago. The bike had 30k miles or so at the time. A little google/forum searching led me to Johnson hi lifts. Now, about 2-3k miles later, I have what I believe is a failed lifter. It sounds like one is collapsing when hot in the front head. I’m going to replace them again, but I was wondering if there was a consensus as to which would be the best for me. The bike is stock inside except for an ev27. I got this last set for $100 which would have been great if I didn’t have to replace them now. Should I go with s&s? How about the B lifters from the moco? Thanks!!
 

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Are you sure it's a lifter? A stethoscope or screwdriver will narrow it down.

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1986 FXRSC #3/1250 Original Owner
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Yes find out which ones are making noise. I have no idea what Johnsons hi lifts are. Find the one or ones that are making noise and replace them. I had a pan that the owner put Jims lifters in and after a few months one was making noise. I replaced one then six months later I replaced another. Both were collapsing which was obvious after taking them out. It's been good since then and that was over a year ago. It's a mechanical device that sometimes you can get a bad one or two
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you sure it's a lifter? A stethoscope or screwdriver will narrow it down.

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I have a valve train tick on the front cylinder that starts when the engine is hot. I’m fairly certain I have a lifter that is failing.
 

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there is a laundry list of possible sources for the noise..

the first thing is to isolate which ass3mbly is 5he source of the noise..
 

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First and foremost question, is Are they Stock Pushrods or Adjustable???
Little 5 speed Sportster here [Hydros] gets noisy when warmed up, then quiet again when Hot, or heat saturated..
I have Heard Nothing but good about Johnson Hy-Lift's...
I am Going to experiment with Cyco's on an Older engine sitting here...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They're adjustable pushrods. I readjusted them. Time will tell if that fixed it. I'm hopeful. I have only heard good things about Johnson as well. The price was good, too.

I get that there are a lot of possible causes for the noise, but seeing as how I just recently replaced the lifters, I suspect them first. Last thing I touched and all that.
 

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They're adjustable pushrods. I readjusted them. Time will tell if that fixed it. I'm hopeful. I have only heard good things about Johnson as well. The price was good, too.

I get that there are a lot of possible causes for the noise, but seeing as how I just recently replaced the lifters, I suspect them first. Last thing I touched and all that.
Agree... If you can Identify the Culprit Lifter... Preload it a bit More... Probably quiet down... Done it Many Times.
I much prefer Stock Lifters... But in this situation, Adjustable may be the Answer...
 

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I had the same issue, a rapping noise from the lifter or pushrods. I switched to RevTech, then Andrews adjustable rods. It would seem better at first, and then get noisy. Especially the front exhaust rod (I used a stereoscope to isolate the noise).
After years of trial & error I finally solved the problem. At one point, I noticed slight scuff marks inside the lifter block guides. I went back to standard rods, bought (3) of the HD 33443 tapered tappet guide alignment tools, tightened them down on 3 corners, then installed the 12 point screws, one at a time. With the lifter block exactly centered, the noise went away.

And, by the way, during this process, I learned that the MOCO initially offered 3 different lengths of the front exhaust pushrod, as they had many complaints. Since it’s at the outer end of the cam, that rod has the longest distance and worst angle to the rocker arm and was more apt to be noisy, So the standard (green) front exhaust rod, PN 17927-83 is 11.325” long , but they also offered 17928-83 at 11.355” and 17828-83 at 11.385” long. They are now listed as ‘no longer available’, but I found one of each longer ones used on E-bay. The 11.355” works best for my motor.
 

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I had the same issue, a rapping noise from the lifter or pushrods. I switched to RevTech, then Andrews adjustable rods. It would seem better at first, and then get noisy. Especially the front exhaust rod (I used a stereoscope to isolate the noise).
After years of trial & error I finally solved the problem. At one point, I noticed slight scuff marks inside the lifter block guides. I went back to standard rods, bought (3) of the HD 33443 tapered tappet guide alignment tools, tightened them down on 3 corners, then installed the 12 point screws, one at a time. With the lifter block exactly centered, the noise went away.

And, by the way, during this process, I learned that the MOCO initially offered 3 different lengths of the front exhaust pushrod, as they had many complaints. Since it’s at the outer end of the cam, that rod has the longest distance and worst angle to the rocker arm and was more apt to be noisy, So the standard (green) front exhaust rod, PN 17927-83 is 11.325” long , but they also offered 17928-83 at 11.355” and 17828-83 at 11.385” long. They are now listed as ‘no longer available’, but I found one of each longer ones used on E-bay. The 11.355” works best for my motor.
When all ya had to do was lengthen that adjustable..
One size does Not fit All...with Pushrod Adjustment as well!!!
 

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When all ya had to do was lengthen that adjustable..
One size does Not fit All...with Pushrod Adjustment as well!!!
And the alignment tool does a great job.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
does it take 3? I think I have two of those tools and used them when I installed my blocks. That should be enough, right? I readjusted my pushrods the other night and noticed the front exhaust finish is worn where its rubbing on the tube. It looks to be slightly bent, so I have a set of S&S on the way.
 

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Yes, 2 tools will be fine. What I noticed is that you have to tighten the tool(s) pretty snug, i.e. get the taper down to the threads so they evenly center the guide block. I also saw some wear marks on the adjustable front exhaust pushrod. Maybe it was rubbing the inside of the tube and that produced some of the noise? That's why I decided to go back to OEM solids. It's quiet now!
 
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