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96 Fatboy/32 Amp original stator.

I did the math, and with everything on (Heated Grips, Dual headlight with high and low on, Brakes on, turn signal on, passing lamps on) I am looking at about 28 Amps....I think I need to free up some juice, and my math says I can get about 10 amps from replacing the front and rear bulbs, and the brake/running lamp - heated gear is in my future.

Do you have to use a load equalizer if you repalce the front and rear bulbs? I assume so, since they will draw less from the system and mess with the modules ability to work right.

With a very light weeping around the stator plug, I suspect I'll have to replace the stator one day, maybe in a year who knows....maybe never.

So tell me, if you wanted to add enough power to supply another 9 amps to your system, would it be better to just go with a 40 amp 3 phase system when I have to replace the stator, or should I replace with the LEDs and hope the stator lasts forever....(I know, dreaming there), or just do both? The cost is going to about the same, and I'll do all the work myself.

I do NOT care about the fancy blinking stuff, I just want standard lighting. If I were to go two up heated, I could easily turn off the grips and passing lamps so thats not a big deal for me - she has her own bike and ride it! :wootdnc:
 

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the stator on my 02 ultra (72,000 miles) was pretty badly burned so i decided to go with all led's instead of upgrading the stator to the tune of $500 +/-. after it was all put back together i started looking at led's. what i decided on is the led bulbs from ledtronics. it looks like i'm gonna have over $500 in bulbs and a load equalizer from radiantz. hindsight i probably should have upgraded the stator anyway. i have the standard light package for the ultra, saddlebag rail lights, floorboard lights front and rear, enhanced sound system amplifier, run a gps and sat radio, sometimes pull a trailer with 10 or so lights on it, and when it's cold wear gerbing's jacket pants gloves and socks. could be why my stator cooked off. if you havent done so already check out ledtronics bulbs.looks like pretty good stuff.
 

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45 amp

I thought about these options too. I am undecided after reading this:
http://www.emcv2.com/accserv/serv-rotspline/rotspline.htm

I have not heard of these splines being "soft". If you have ever heard of these splines funking up, please post it. I will check with my local indy and post it if he has anything to say.

STB

Yeah, I want the Gerbings heated clothing too................... .
 

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tibs said:
96 Fatboy/32 Amp original stator.

I did the math, and with everything on (Heated Grips, Dual headlight with high and low on, Brakes on, turn signal on, passing lamps on) I am looking at about 28 Amps....I think I need to free up some juice, and my math says I can get about 10 amps from replacing the front and rear bulbs, and the brake/running lamp - heated gear is in my future.

Do you have to use a load equalizer if you repalce the front and rear bulbs? I assume so, since they will draw less from the system and mess with the modules ability to work right.

With a very light weeping around the stator plug, I suspect I'll have to replace the stator one day, maybe in a year who knows....maybe never.

So tell me, if you wanted to add enough power to supply another 9 amps to your system, would it be better to just go with a 40 amp 3 phase system when I have to replace the stator, or should I replace with the LEDs and hope the stator lasts forever....(I know, dreaming there), or just do both? The cost is going to about the same, and I'll do all the work myself.

I do NOT care about the fancy blinking stuff, I just want standard lighting. If I were to go two up heated, I could easily turn off the grips and passing lamps so thats not a big deal for me - she has her own bike and ride it! :wootdnc:
you can replace the passing lamps w/led par-36 sealed beams,absolutely replace the running/turn lites front and rear w/leds. don't replace your brake/tail lights w/those bogus led bulbs. leave it stock or do 1t right $$ w/a heavycycles replacement
 

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This may be relevant... I had a customer with a V-Rod ask me just about the same thing, and well, I figure some of you may find this sickly entertaining or at least helpful.

;)



Original question:
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I have a 2004 stock Vrod. I ride all winter so I was given the Gerbings heated gloves, jacket and pants. I have since discovered that the electrical system on the Vrod can't handle the load of the heated gear.

I am considering changing out the running light/turn signal bulbs and replacing them with clear LEDs retaining the stock amber covers as well as replacing the brake light with an LED. My concern is that most of the LED replacements I have seen are too dim for my comfort, I want to be seen. Secondly, every turn signal replacement has a caveat that I MIGHT need a load balancer. I am not an electrical engineer so I have no clue what this is and whether I would need it or how I would know if I actually needed it.

I am looking for just a simple swap out of the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. Nothing fancy, no integrated turn signals in the brake light. No brake/running lights in the stock rear turn signals. Of course I am also going under the assumption that the LED swap will give me the amperage I need to keep the battery charged and my backside warm. :)

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Dealers reply: :duh?:
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Their recommendation was to ride the bike and see if the battery dies. They failed to realize that the fuel pump would most likely quit before that and with my luck on a highway in the middle of nowhere.

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My reply:
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I would say the main concern would be lights that are on all the time, then the brake light, and lastly, the turn signals. The front signals are run and signal, so they would fit in the first category, where the rear signals are only lit up when the signal is activated, and for a short time. You may be able to leave them alone for now.



OK, bear with me here.

The 1157 bulbs found in the taillight and front signals draw about 600mA on the low brightness (running light) and about 2.1 amps (2100mA) on the high brightness... when the signal or brake light is on, both filaments are lit, drawing about 2.7 amps for each bulb. The rear signals', single filament, 1156 bulbs draw about 2.1 amps.

Our LED boards for the turn signals draw about 38mA on low brightness (running light) and about 340mA on high brightness. The Stage 1 standard taillight (no signals inside) draws about 105mA on the running light circuit and about 505mA on brake light circuit, for a total of about 610mA when the brakes are applied.



You see where this is starting to look good, right?

Stock bulbs on running lights, two 1157 bulbs in front signals and one in the taillight: 3 x 600 = 1800mA (1.8 amps)

LED taillight and front signals on running lights: (2 x 38) + 105 = ~180ma

You just saved 1620mA or about 1.6 amps.

The LED taillight would also save you about 2 amps on brake light.

The front signals would save you about 2.3 amps when the signal is flashing. Add in a set of rear LED signals and there's another ~1.7 amps saved for each flash of the signals. Front and rear LED signals would drop each flash of the signals (one side) from ~4.8 amps (4800mA) down to ~.8 amps (800mA)... for a whopping 4 amp savings on each flash of the left or right signal.

One other though too... LED license plate light. That is also part of the running light circuit and the stock bulb light draws about 780mA and the LED version draws about 250mA... another half an amp saved.

your Gerbings gloves draw about 1.6 amps, the pants are about 3.2 amps and the jacket is about 5.5 amps... grand total to keep your buttocks warm: about 10.3 amps



OK, now that I probably confused to heck out of you...

If you went all LED running lights; front signals, taillight, and license plate light, you would gain back about 2.1 amps for your heated gear. Like I mentioned before, this is the most important because these lights are always lit.

Also, you would get the brake light current reduction of about 2 amps and the front signal reduction of 2.3 amps (of course, only when the signals are activated).

The rear signals would buy you back another 1.7 amps, but only when the signal is flashing... not very often and not for very long... this is where I would say you could leave the bulbs if you wanted to save a few bucks.


As far as the SmartEqualizer (brand name for a very good load balancer) goes, I am not positive of the current draw that might add back, but it would only be while the turn signals are flashing on... the load equalizer is to keep the bike's turn signal module happy and not flashing fast because it thinks a bulb is out due to the reduced power draw of the LED signals. Again, this only affects the turn signal circuitry and will only be drawing current when the signals are flashing. You should direct this question to Biketronics, the manufacturer... www.biketron.com is their website and they are very knowledgeable... nice people to deal with also!

So, yes, it would help out quite a bit by going to the LEDs :)

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Editor's note: if I made any mistakes or you could add something that would be helpful, please do!
 
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