Is it possible to do a.....

935 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by johnny_red, Dec 31, 2005

akebhart

Discussion Starter · Dec 30, 2005

Big bore build without pulling tyhe engine from the frame?

I am getting ready to do a cam change here in a few weeks...but am beginning to gather info on next winters project(95 inch big bore kit). From what I can see it looks pretty straight forward. Here is the basic procedure as I see it....tell me if im missing something or I am way off in my thinking.

1. remove gas tank, seat, disco battery, remove Air cleaner, throttle body, and exhaust system.

2. remove rockers, pushrods, push rod covers and rocker box.

3. with piston in lowest position....remove heads....then cyclinder

4. remove wrist pin and piston.

5. install by reversing steps 1-4...get ECM stage 1or2 flash...go to Dyno shop.

6. Have Fun

Sound about right? Any advice from you wrenches who have already done this would be appreciated.

Other Than the Wrist pin tool....are there any other specialty tools required?

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springer-

· #2 · Dec 30, 2005 (Edited)

Yes, you can do all that with the engine in the frame. Additionally, you don't need the pistons in the all the way down location. It will probably be easier to remove the cylinder with the piston at the top of its stroke. That way you don't have to keep the flywheels from turning while disassembling.

Little hint. Get some new 1/2" rubber oil line and and cut it into 8 3"-4" long pieces and then split the pieces the long way with a razor. As soon as the cylinder is removed, put the pieces over the cylinder studs. This will prevent damaging the new pistons and rings after you install them on the rods. Leave them in place until you have the new cylinders lowered on to the pistons and the ring compressor removed. Then just before lowering the cylinder you can remove then from the stud, that is what the slice down the side is for.

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MegaGlide

· #3 · Dec 30, 2005

Um, do you have a factory service manual for your bike?

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akebhart

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 30, 2005

Um, do you have a factory service manual for your bike?

LOL....Yeah I have a manual...not a factory manual...but a good manual.

Wouldn't dream of doing anything like this without one.

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springer-

· #5 · Dec 30, 2005

akebhart said:
LOL....Yeah I have a manual...not a factory manual...but a good manual.

Wouldn't dream of doing anything like this without one.

Get the factory manual !!!!!

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akebhart

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 30, 2005

Fair enough....factory manual on the shopping list. Right now this all preliminary....have plenty of time to get more familiar with what needs to be done. But is my basic process right? I realize its a little more complicated than that but I think I got it in the right order.

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JMynes

· #7 · Dec 30, 2005

I think I would disconnect the battery first. Spill a little gas......make a little spark. You fill in the rest.

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pa-glazier

· #8 · Dec 30, 2005

akebhart said:
Big bore build without pulling tyhe engine from the frame?

I am getting ready to do a cam change here in a few weeks...but am beginning to gather info on next winters project(95 inch big bore kit). From what I can see it looks pretty straight forward. Here is the basic procedure as I see it....tell me if im missing something or I am way off in my thinking.

1. remove gas tank, seat, disco battery, remove Air cleaner, throttle body, and exhaust system.

2. remove rockers, pushrods, push rod covers and rocker box.

3. with piston in lowest position....remove heads....then cyclinder

4. remove wrist pin and piston.

5. install by reversing steps 1-4...get ECM stage 1or2 flash...go to Dyno shop.

6. Have Fun

Sound about right? Any advice from you wrenches who have already done this would be appreciated.

Other Than the Wrist pin tool....are there any other specialty tools required?

Skip the ECM flash (they only get your bike in the ballpark) . Get the SE race tuner at one of the online discount Harley parts dealers. The stage 1 and 2 downloads come with it and you will need the race tuner or power commander to let the dyno tuner adjust your bike anyway (this is all assuming that your bike is fuel injected). Save your money on the wrist pin tool. You can remove the pin with a scribe or a small screwdriver. Make sure that you stuff some clean rags or something around your connecting rods as soon as you start to lift the cylinders off to prevent something from falling into you bottom end (like a wrist pin clip).

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johnny_red

· #9 · Dec 31, 2005

Very informative site here with step by step pictures. Gives a good idea what to expect.
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/1550/bbonline.htm

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