V-Twin Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm putting a HD chrome inner primary cover on the DWG pretty soon and I wanted to know if there are any little tricks or tips to it other than what the service manual states? I read through it and it seems pretty straight forward. I'm a little confused about where and how you apply the RTV sealent. I just don't want any surprises.

Thanks, rpb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,300 Posts
On the engine and gearbox bolt bosses, ie the flats before you present the inner primary. Just the ones that could go into oil cavities, 5 of them I think. Either Three Bond or black RTV.

If you use the old style bolts use new lock plates.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,289 Posts
rpbrock said:
I'm putting a HD chrome inner primary cover on the DWG pretty soon and I wanted to know if there are any little tricks or tips to it other than what the service manual states? I read through it and it seems pretty straight forward. I'm a little confused about where and how you apply the RTV sealent. I just don't want any surprises.

Thanks, rpb
HD changed the oil seal for the starter jack shaft (12066 A) as well as the mainshaft oil seal (12052A) by October 2004. Make sure that you use the mentioned part## to avoid leaking if you bike is built before that date. By the way, how do I identify the month and the year of production?

How is the left side crank bearing support coming along? My 107" is alive and kicking now, weather sucks.....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Hippo and Klaus,

Congrats on getting your bike up and running again! 107... that's gotta put a big smile on your face. And I haven't checked the build date of my '04 put I have a dime size puddle after every ride. So I was guessing one of those two seals was taking a dump.

George from GP Designs emailed me today and he's almost got the prtotype finished for the Dynas and Softies. I don't know if he'll get it finished by months end or not? Still waiting for LAF to install his and see what he thinks. I guess we'll never know it's there and hopefully never have to find out. Anyway, I have new wheels, floating rotors, chrome calipers, stainless braided cables and brake lines, new alarm, and a few other new goodies coming in the next week or two to deal with before I have to worry about the new chrome primary coming.

Hippo, if the new HD inner case doesn't come with the new hardware and/or lock plates I will definitly get new lock plates. I'm thinking they have the new bearing installed. Thanks for the tips! I just hope the inner primary cover is nice and squared off and not warped on the mating edges.

By the way, the Jackshaft seal and the mainshaft seal just pop out don't they like a car wheel bearing seal? Or do I need anything special to pop'em out? And I thought I might put some petroleum jelly on the rubber parts before I installed the new seals.... this okay to do?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,289 Posts
rpbrock said:
Thanks Hippo and Klaus,


You can easily pry 'em out with a screw driver blade. Manual calls for an arbor press to install, we did it with a matching nut and a plastic mallet, no big deal. A few drops of SYN3 is a must for easy installation, you would contaminate your motor with anything else and void your warranty......

Have fun
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Be sure to clean the tran shaft of all dirt. Be sure to oil the shaft and seal well before you set the cover home. I forgot this step and burned up a seal once and developed a leak. Had to tear it down & correct. Never will do that again.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,644 Posts
I have my outer off and will have oputer off tomorrow. Should I replace the seals in the inner primary when putting back together? MIn ewas not chromed, just pulled off to get to tranny leak.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
berserker said:
I have my outer off and will have oputer off tomorrow. Should I replace the seals in the inner primary when putting back together? MIn ewas not chromed, just pulled off to get to tranny leak.
I'm going to be replacing mine unless the new chrome inner comes with the new style mainshaft seal already installed. I've had a mainshaft leak for about 6-8 months. After reading the PDF's Vienna hog put up I noticed my bike falls within the dates they were using the older style seal.

SPEAKING OF.... If you read the PDFs you'll notice HD tells the tech/shop/dealershop to use the remaining stock of the older style seals until they are all gone. What a bunch of crap. Another reason I won't have a dealership touch my bike. Highway robbin' basturds!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,289 Posts
rpbrock said:
I'm going to be replacing mine unless the new chrome inner comes with the new style mainshaft seal already installed. I've had a mainshaft leak for about 6-8 months. After reading the PDF's Vienna hog put up I noticed my bike falls within the dates they were using the older style seal.

SPEAKING OF.... If you read the PDFs you'll notice HD tells the tech/shop/dealershop to use the remaining stock of the older style seals until they are all gone. What a bunch of crap. Another reason I won't have a dealership touch my bike. Highway robbin' basturds!
That's why I ordered my stuff from Zanotti's with the latest part ## and I got the right ones. High volume dealer <=> no older parts

How is the reassembly going?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm waiting on some parts from M&M and some from Chi Town HD and I'm waiting on George to finish the new cr5ank support made for Dynas.... Then I'm going to NYC for a week so I won't even get to start on it for about 2 weeks.....

I don't think it's going to be a big deal. Gotta be a lot easier than changing the Spark plugs on my Expedition. Spen't 5+ hours doing that last night.....

I'll post up when I get everything on....
 

·
Life is what you make it
Joined
·
3,568 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,644 Posts
So many people using 5' cheaters, I think the one I used was about 18". Guess I grew up strong shoveling snow.

I am kind of leaning towards replaing all the seals, then will be good for a long time. Then again part of me is like well, if it anin't leaking leave it alone.

Ahh decisions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
berserker said:
So many people using 5' cheaters, I think the one I used was about 18". Guess I grew up strong shoveling snow.

I am kind of leaning towards replaing all the seals, then will be good for a long time. Then again part of me is like well, if it anin't leaking leave it alone.

Ahh decisions.
Yea... If it ain't, leave it... or it will...

Damn that guy must have put about 300 ft.-lbs (PLUS) of TQ on that comp nut with that cheater bar... that's a little more than the factory calls for ain't it? I'm not to sure I'm going to be using that technique.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,644 Posts
rpbrock said:
Damn that guy must have put about 300 ft.-lbs (PLUS) of TQ on that comp nut with that cheater bar... that's a little more than the factory calls for ain't it? I'm not to sure I'm going to be using that technique.
Some guys can't break the nut without using it.
Manual calls for breaker bar, back and forth heat and last resort impact. It actually use term last resort.

Mine wasn't that bad. Was surprised was geared up for a fight. I didn't have a 5' bar and was looking at what I could improvise. Found a bent trailing arm from sled. Didn't get that far.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was talking about tightning it back up. Just to go to town on it with no TQ wrench... a little scary. As for taking it off.... zip..zip... impact for me. I'll save my stength for putting it back on with the old craftsmant torque wrench.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top