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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm dizzy from searching the archives about 95" builds. I'm trying to balance gaining additional power with a budget. I'd like to keep the cost under $1800.

I have a 2002 Road King Classic (FLHRCI).
SE Air Cleaner
Rinehart true duals
PCIIIr

I want to keep the Rineharts because to me, they sound perfect and look better than anything else out there. Plus I already have a $650 investment in them.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to ebay the PCIIIr and get a SERT. Mainly because if I keep the PCIIIr, I'll have to pay to have the Stage 1 flash done and there are more shops around Atlanta that can dyno a bike with a SERT than a PC.

I'd like to keep the compression under 10:1. I'd like to get close to 100HP/100TQ numbers. I know the Rineharts will result in lower numbers.

So, I'm looking for members out there who have done a 95" build and are using Rineharts. Anyone?

Lastly, can someone reply with a checklist of items I need to buy. It would be very helpful and IMO, would be worthly of a STICKY if someone would compile a 95" Build 101t post. Run through the different gaskets, bearings, cams, exhaust, etc. benefits. Might save a lot of newbie posts. :) I know I need the following:

Pistons
Cylinders
Cams
Gaskets
Heads (will send to someone for porting)
Bearings (torrington?)
Baisley Spring (what the hell is that and do I need it)

I'm an extremely compentent mechanic but I've never been inside an HD motor. I bought most of the cams tools but I still need to buy the inside cam bearing removal tool. I'll take the cam plate to the local HD dealer and have them press out the old cams and press in the new ones.

Thanks,
Michael
Roswell, GA
 

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thatoldbike said:
I'm dizzy from searching the archives about 95" builds. I'm trying to balance gaining additional power with a budget. I'd like to keep the cost under $1800.

I have a 2002 Road King Classic (FLHRCI).
SE Air Cleaner
Rinehart true duals
PCIIIr

I want to keep the Rineharts because to me, they sound perfect and look better than anything else out there. Plus I already have a $650 investment in them.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to ebay the PCIIIr and get a SERT. Mainly because if I keep the PCIIIr, I'll have to pay to have the Stage 1 flash done and there are more shops around Atlanta that can dyno a bike with a SERT than a PC.

I'd like to keep the compression under 10:1. I'd like to get close to 100HP/100TQ numbers. I know the Rineharts will result in lower numbers.

So, I'm looking for members out there who have done a 95" build and are using Rineharts. Anyone?

Lastly, can someone reply with a checklist of items I need to buy. It would be very helpful and IMO, would be worthly of a STICKY if someone would compile a 95" Build 101t post. Run through the different gaskets, bearings, cams, exhaust, etc. benefits. Might save a lot of newbie posts. :) I know I need the following:

Pistons
Cylinders
Cams
Gaskets
Heads (will send to someone for porting)
Bearings (torrington?)
Baisley Spring (what the hell is that and do I need it)

I'm an extremely compentent mechanic but I've never been inside an HD motor. I bought most of the cams tools but I still need to buy the inside cam bearing removal tool. I'll take the cam plate to the local HD dealer and have them press out the old cams and press in the new ones.

Thanks,
Michael
Roswell, GA
You ask for a lot. The problem is there are far too many combinations to cover it in single post. Everyone has different objectives and different riding habits. what is perfect for one might be useless to another.

Lets look at your objectives.
1) Low cost build
2) Streetable compression
3) 100/100 target
4) SERT for Tuning
5) 95" Bore
6) Headwork
7) Cams
8) Keep Rineharts

How do you ride? Are you always against the rev limiter or do you shift at 4k rpm? Do you ride solo all the time or 2 up mostly? How many miles per year do you put on? These questions will help determine your Cam choice.

Low cost build .. heres what I would recommend.

$130 Bore your cylinders
$120 SE cast pistons (flat top or hi-comp to be determined later)
$299 Street ported heads
$380 SERT
$75 +/- Misc Gaskets
$$ Torrington bearings
$12 Baisley spring
$100 +/- Cam chain tensioners (depending on cam choice)
$$$ Cams
$25 Measure combustion chambers
$70 Mill combustion chambers (if required)

If you ride 2 up and shift in the 4k range you will most likely be looking for a good torque cam that pulls down low. If you ride solo mostly and like to bounce off the rev limiter a lot, a mid range cam might be in order for you.

The next decision is the type of cam, Gear or Chain. If you put on 5-10K per year a chain cam would probably be a sufficient choice, keeps cost down and every 3-4 years you can check/change your chain tensioners. On the other hand if you put on 20-30K per year, you don't want to have to be in there once a year and a gear cam would probably suit the build better. Either way with a performance cam I would recommend lifters every 30K.

After a cam is picked, pistons are next. Once you know what you want for a cam you will have an idea of what compression ratio you will want to run. To pick a piston in the build I am recommending, you need to know what the combustion chamber size is. The chambers vary considerably on stock heads. They range anywhere from 84cc's to 90cc's and typically fall in the 87cc range. If you are on the high side then 10.25:1 SE Cast pistons might be in order. It is a cost effective way to make up for the over sized chambers and still yield a compression ratio in the range you are looking for. If the chambers are on the smaller side and the cam doesn't require as much compression, then measuring and milling the heads to compensate for the chamber size would be in order. It would also dictate the use of a flat top piston (SE cast recommended). This is a little most costly but not much, you can go this route with any of the compression ratio's if you want.

The Baisley spring will help keep your lifter quieter with a performance cam. It is a spring that controls the Oil Pressure By-Pass valve. It increases the pressure that the valve opens at and helps maintain good pressure to the lifters.

Bore your stock cylinders. Don't waste the extra money buying SE 95" cylinders. They are nothing more than the exact same thing on your bike now but with larger hole. Boring your cylinders is not just a cost savings of over 50% but since your cylinders are seasoned, they will hold the bore better over the life of the motor.

SERT is a excellent choice. It allows for maximum tuning of your build and allows you to increase the rev limiter to 6200 without the cost of a download. I wouldn't worry about the 100/100 thing at all. If you go with a torque cam it will yield lower numbers than a midrange cam. Just pick the cam based on riding and tune it for torque. HP numbers on a Road King is like suggesting you want to build a dump truck for drag racing.

Exhaust choice is as much looks as it is performance. If you want all out performance then looks don't matter. You like the sound and looks of your exhaust, to me thats 50% of the choice regardless of the performance aspect of it. Keep them and again Don't worry about the numbers game.

I assume you already have the factory manual since it sounds like you are doing the work yourself. If not GET ONE.

There are more things to consider but this should help you get on your way. If you have any question feel free to ask.
 

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98" build in progress w/Rineharts

Michael,

Many hours researching the same issues you have re: a BB build and the Rineharts...the only pipes for me. Although I am no expert, I have researched to death on this forum, other forums, friends and builders, etc. My build follows for your reference ('01 FLHRCI). You'll be right on the money with a proven performer that will hit very strong numbers if tuned properly.

- Revolution Performance 98" kit
- Andrews 37g cams
- Lifters
- Stage 1 head porting
- Intake porting
- Oil spring
- Cometic gasket set
- Rinehart Duals
- PCIII USB

The BB kit, cams, lifters, porting, gaskets, and oil spring have all been ordered from HDWrench (Steve at GMR Performance, 602-722-7336). My experience with him so far regarding his technical knowledge, suggestions, and support, including timely returned phone calls and emails, has been great.

With regard to GMR or Revolution Performance, check out http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=677031#post677031. The reply's to this post is a strong testament to who these guys are. Note the unsolicited responses re: HDWrench, wow. Also note a response from the president of Revolution Performance, strong.

Good luck with your build! I'll be posting some updates and numbers re: my build as they become available.

Dan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info:

Since my wife bought a horse, I ride solo the majority of the time in the North GA mountains. I ride 2 up maybe 20% of the time. I weigh 215 and my wife is about 115. I shift between 3k and 4k so I'm looking for the torque as far down as possible (the Rineharts don't help with that but...). I was thinking of the TW37 cam. I think I've seen them online for $240. I'll most likely go with chain cams since I ride about 8000 miles a year, have the tools, and won't have a huge sunk cost in gear cams if I decide to change them later.

Thanks,
Michael
 
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