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Discussion Starter #1
I just got back from a 2500 mile ride, I didn't think I'd make it home but my 00 FLHTCI is a good girl and responds to my talking sweet to it.
Anyhow, about 1,000 miles from home she started acting up, missfiring, sputtering, poping and backfiring. I could get her to calm down by gently getting to a constant speed usually between 61-65 mph and holding it constant. It does pull very well though at WOT. I brought it into a dealer in NC to get a diagnostics check, no trouble codes at all. I have the HD race tuner in it and they said that was the problem and they don't like the race tuner at all. I didn't have the dongle witht me (I didn't know your supposed to carry that around with you) so they couldn't get into the ECM.
So far this year I've replaced the ECM, throttle body and replaced the PC3 with race tuner so I could get it looked at anywhere by an HD dealer without hearing about why I have something that's not HD in my bike.
I do a lot of long distance riding and get far from home frequently. (I am an iron but assoc. member) and don't like have something I can't figure out by myself on the side of the road. Been riding panheads (and still do) for 35 years so I know about roadside repairs.
I'm thinking about replacing the EFI with a good old carburator, probably a Mik45 and S&S or crane ignition, any input from anyone?? My bikes a;
2000 FLHTCI
95"
S&S 512 gear drive
I love this bike and have it set up to fit me like old pair of jeans. Thought of a new bike but I don't think there any better that what I've got.
 

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It could be a bad connection to one of the injectors. I've heard several people that found that the harness to the injectors had no service loop, so when the engine rocks in the rubber mounts it pulls on the wires, the outer insulation stretches but the wire does not and breaks causing an open circuit.
 

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I do a lot of miles too and when I bought my '00 EG had the option for FI and passed in favor of a carb over concerns of long term high mile reliabilty.
The bike has over 130,000 miles on it now and has never had a fuel delivery issue.
I went to a CV 44 with my 95" kit and added gear drive cams.
I had a Mikuni 42 but I like the CV44 a lot better,it gets better mileage and isn't bothered by changes in altitude like the Mikuni was.
 

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My guess would be the cam sensor or crank position sensor. They did away with the cam sensor at some point, but can't remember which year.
 

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WS6 Formula said:
It could be a bad connection to one of the injectors. I've heard several people that found that the harness to the injectors had no service loop, so when the engine rocks in the rubber mounts it pulls on the wires, the outer insulation stretches but the wire does not and breaks causing an open circuit.
I had this problem, but the scoot never backfired. Just an intermittent miss at speed, occasionally. If any of the electrical components go south, the scoot will start throwing codes. Mine never threw any codes. Also, there is the possibility the internal fuel hose could have pin holes in it , allowing it to suck air when the fuel in the tank drops below the holes. Sounds like it's starving for fuel. I even carry the cables for my SERT with me, just in case.
 

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I hear you.

After spending far too much money trying to get the MM efi to work on my '00 Ultra over the years I finally threw my hands in the air this spring and switched to a stock CV carb.

The bike has run flawlessly from the very first start. Pulls harder throughout the whole range as well.

HQ 95" kit(10:8:1 comp.)
HQ tuneable ignition
SE filter
White Bros. 2-1 E pipe
Baker DD 6
 

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Discussion Starter #9
42 or 45mm

Do you think 45mm would be to much for my bike? I am leaning towards the mikuni, I put a 42 on my wife's dyna (EVO) and it was like I put nitrus in it. I couldn't believe the difference. It just pulls and pulls and pulls...
 

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peterpan3 said:
Do you think 45mm would be to much for my bike? I am leaning towards the mikuni, I put a 42 on my wife's dyna (EVO) and it was like I put nitrus in it. I couldn't believe the difference. It just pulls and pulls and pulls...
You've got mail.

TC
 

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peterpan3 said:
Do you think 45mm would be to much for my bike? I am leaning towards the mikuni, I put a 42 on my wife's dyna (EVO) and it was like I put nitrus in it. I couldn't believe the difference. It just pulls and pulls and pulls...
I was just about to answer ... Mikuni is the fix for all your EFI ailments. I've had all kinds of set-ups, but I've yet to have a fuelie that could match throttle response and reliability like the Mikuni 42HSR I'm currently running. Mine's otherwise stock, 88TC, not sure if the 45 is too much for your bike. But my hunch is that the 42 is the better choice.
 

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by comparison to the Delphi efi, the Magnetti Marelli efi system is pretty poor. If you can find a competent efi tuner and wrench, the MM system can be troubleshot and can be made to work decently. But the Delphi system is superior to the MM system, no question about it. Also remember, carburetors are not perfect either, everyone seems to forget to tell you that part. The main problems with H-D and the efi systems are the MM system as a whole was a poor implementation, lack of wrenches out there that truly understand how the efi system works and how to actually tune it, engine sensor failures or out of tolerance behavior, electrical wiring issues or owner induced problems. imho, when efi is working correctly, it's benefits far outweigh it's liabilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mik 42mm

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll dump my mm efi and go with the 42mm mikuni. I do pretty good with carburators and have a few pans and 2 evo's that I keep running very well.
My bigest issue was getting service out on the road. I wander far from home if no-one watches me an I can't believe the attitude of most HD dealers towards older machines. I mean my flh is 7 years old now and you have to order parts for the efi and nevermind getting them to work on it. All there interested in is the guy who has deep pockets and has all the expensive stuff bolted on. You can't even get EVO parts anymore....Not from HD anyway.
Support is better at most aftermarket shops in the woods and dark ally's.
I guess I need to set this bike up so I can fix it with a rock and duct tape on the side of the road, just like my panhead..
OK, I've spouted off..........
Has anyone tried the S&S ignition for twin cams??? it looks interesting and I'm thinking of trying it.
 

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Good luck with the conversion, I know a number of folks on this board have done so and if you search you will find threads regarding the change over.

Until you do have you tried a new set of plugs wires? Wanna know why I ask? lol
 

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Engine mount (with slot for choke) ……. 16315-99 $5.51
Choke cable ……. 29229-88B $8.80
Choke elbow ……. 27580-88 $2.18
Choke boot ……. 27582-88 $1.78
Intake manifold ……. 27613-99 $22.43
Manifold seals ……. 26995-86B $1.51 X 2
Seal ring (carb/manifold)…… 27002-89 $4.91
Ignition Harness ……. 32435-00 $104.43
Manifold sensor (MAP) ……. 32316-99 $26.95
Manifold sensor seal ……. 11291 $0.99
Retaining clip ……. 38723-99 $0.13
Retaining clip screw ……. 68042-99 $0.85
Stock Petcock- 61338-94D $53.00
Stock CV40 Carb- 27412-99D $168.00
MM EFI Tank Conversion from Pingel $40.00
Ignition Module

Source http://www.head-quarters.com/html/efi_to_carb.html
 

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1,456 Posts
vafatboy said:
Engine mount (with slot for choke) ……. 16315-99 $5.51
Choke cable ……. 29229-88B $8.80
Choke elbow ……. 27580-88 $2.18
Choke boot ……. 27582-88 $1.78
Intake manifold ……. 27613-99 $22.43
Manifold seals ……. 26995-86B $1.51 X 2
Seal ring (carb/manifold)…… 27002-89 $4.91
Ignition Harness ……. 32435-00 $104.43
Manifold sensor (MAP) ……. 32316-99 $26.95
Manifold sensor seal ……. 11291 $0.99
Retaining clip ……. 38723-99 $0.13
Retaining clip screw ……. 68042-99 $0.85
Stock Petcock- 61338-94D $53.00
Stock CV40 Carb- 27412-99D $168.00
MM EFI Tank Conversion from Pingel $40.00
Ignition Module

Source http://www.head-quarters.com/html/efi_to_carb.html
Has anybody figured out how to get the problem with the speedo and alarm fixed when doing the conversion? The old thread on this just kindof crapped out.
 

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I must be in the minority here. My MM works great for the most part. The only problems I have had are hot low speed idle issues. I have that figured out now too to where I can get it back without undue problems. Have a mild build on my scoot and run a Dobeck DFO. To me way better than the PCIII usb I have. Cheaper, can be converted back to stock pretty damn quick and I just like the looks of something that looks like a 2 barrel carb.

I will say that everything has to be up to snuff on your bike to make the MM work like it should, especially the electrical system. A weak battery and you can be screwed. Although if I had my druthers I would have a carb on my bike but I don't so I learned the MM pretty good and what effects it and how. keepem sharp
 

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EvilMonger
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Peacekeeper said:
Has anybody figured out how to get the problem with the speedo and alarm fixed when doing the conversion? The old thread on this just kindof crapped out.
I don't have an alarm on my 2000 FLTRSEI and I have no speedo issues with my carb conversion.
 

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Another option is to change over to Delphi FI.

I have a Thayer FI sub-harness that converts the M&M FI to Delphi FI, and a Delphi coil and mounting bracket if you are interested. You should be able to pick up a used Delphi TB, and ECM with Race/Tuner on e-bay, Or you can contact Dave Thayer, at Thayer sales, he as ALL that stuff available.

If you want to go with a carb, that's good too, but don't think that a carb is your ONLY option.​
 
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