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Discussion Starter #1
Been searching through the forum and getting bits of answers here and there. Hope you guys can fill in the rest.

I'm trying to run all my wires and hoses inside the handlebar. Therefore, I'm installing a hydraulic clutch (PM 9/16" controls with Joker 9/16" actuator) on my 2000 Deuce TC88. Using DOT4. Never rode a hydraulic clutch bike before so I don't have first hand knowledge about the feel.

Problem 1:
- As of now, the clutch is soft until nearing the end of travel (lever almost touching the grip) where it turns hard, just like the brake lever.
- Bike goes when I release the lever a little.
- The neutral light blinks erratically, seems the sensor is sensing something halfway there.
- Very hard to shift to neutral with engine running.
- I'm using everything else stock in the transmission. Do I need to change the pushrod?

Solution 1: Re-bled the system with the zip tie overnight method. Or something else that I'm not aware of.

Problem 2:
I too broke a bone on my left hand and will require a little clutch assistance. Thinking of putting a VPC on, probably the VP67T.
- Anyone used one with a hydraulic clutch before?
- Since there's no adjustment on a hydraulic clutch, can you still adjust the clutch lightness (via VPC)?
- Will I burn the clutch when I adjust to lightest setting on the VPC and use in conjunction with the above problem?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Cheers.
 

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Like Compressor#v, I too am running the HD Hydro-Clutch with VPC. I know there is no adjustment for the HD Hydro. I don't think the VPC is adjustable either.

Last week my bike was getting hard to shift with the engine running, and the clutch was "grabbing" when first engaging. So I changed out my clutch-pack last week, new steel plates and friction plates, and now the clutch engages right off the grip, whereas before it used to engage halfway out. I guess that was the indication of the amount of wear in it. The pull and release pressure is the same. But if your tranny is hard to shift with the engine running, perhaps your clutch is not releasing completely, and there still is drag somewhere. I'm not familiar with the PM or Joker set up. Perhaps you should consider running a mastercylinder, and actuator from the same manufacturer.​
 

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MaxHeadflow
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Reads like the slave piston is running out of travel. I'd try to screw the center adjuster in on the clutch until it gets tight then add a couple of turns. Let it set a while then back it off til loose then loosen 1/4 turn. Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thx for the heads up. My suspicion too that the piston is running out of travel. With trans in first gear, clutch pulled all the way in, I have a hard time pushing the bike forward (engine brake). Should the clutch engage right off the grip or halfway out? I guess that depends how much travel the piston has?

Paniolo:
I thought you can adjust "lightness of" the VPC? :huh:

Wanted the joker setup initially but on second (more like second hundredth) look, they are really thick. My initial and main reason for going hyd is to clean up the bars so a thick MC is out. But I like the joker actuator (the older concealed one, not the new JX) so much, I didn't wanna part with it. The actuator is for 9/16" bore though.

Recommended by my mech (who's a friend) to go aftermarket 9/16" bore instead of the HD kit. Said it's easier to pull. Sounds right that you need less force with a smaller bore but then the travel might be shorter. However, there're so many aftermarket ones that I make myself believe they have designed it properly.
 

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DrRipper said:
I thought you can adjust "lightness of" the VPC? :huh:
If there is a way to adjust it, I must have missed that one. I'll post the same question over on the HTT and see what they say.

Mark​
 
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