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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys!
I bouhgt a 2004 Softail (USA model) and I am totally pissed off with its high idle speed. I just can't believe how piece of **** this high RPM is compared to other Harleys like EVO-s and other Twin cams with carb.
What a mistake from Harley-Davidson to go with this EFI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found out quickly that it was impossible to lower it at home. (what a shame!)
I went to the closest dealer (Budapest) to get the job done and they started to explain that higher RPM is better because of oil pressure and battery charge and all that ****.
At the end they tried to lower my RPM with a device called scanalizer but 752RPM was the lowest limit that the computer allowed and after the service guy disconnected the cable the rev went back to 1050 RPM again. I was told that the computer needed some time to learn the new order. (Bullshit)

My question is if it is possible to get down with idle RPM without changing the EFI for carburettor and sending the whole EFI **** back to Millwaukee?
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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Yes it is possible. You can do it at home with a SE Race Tuner (SERT). The lowest you will get on a hot bike is 800 though. On a cold bike about 1000. And on a warm bike about 980. Though I'm not sure why you would want to lug an engine like that, and the SERT offers a lot of tuning options, at ~400 dollars it would be an expensive idle adjustment.

Did your dealer save the setting (reflash the ECM) before he was done with your setting adjustment?
 

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ELE said:
Hi guys!
I bouhgt a 2004 Softail (USA model) and I am totally pissed off with its high idle speed. I just can't believe how piece of **** this high RPM is compared to other Harleys like EVO-s and other Twin cams with carb.
What a mistake from Harley-Davidson to go with this EFI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found out quickly that it was impossible to lower it at home. (what a shame!)
I went to the closest dealer (Budapest) to get the job done and they started to explain that higher RPM is better because of oil pressure and battery charge and all that ****.
At the end they tried to lower my RPM with a device called scanalizer but 752RPM was the lowest limit that the computer allowed and after the service guy disconnected the cable the rev went back to 1050 RPM again. I was told that the computer needed some time to learn the new order. (Bullshit)

My question is if it is possible to get down with idle RPM without changing the EFI for carburettor and sending the whole EFI **** back to Millwaukee?
Are you done venting yet? If so, read your owner's manual and you'll find the idle speed to around 1000rpm +/-50 rpm preset in the EFI for a number of good reasons that you can find here in the appropriate forum section. If you run the idle much lower than the minimum speed, you kill the the crank over time, drain the battery and reduce service life of the engine overall. The mechanic gave you all the right reasons to stay with the correct idle speed. BTW, I run a carb and run it at 1000 rpm idle speed. Call me an idiot if you feel like it.........Each to its own I guess.
As to the conversion, yes it can be done. Some folks did it and spent a lot of money, most of them had Marelli EFIs.

BTW, a nice introduction in the 'My story, in the beginning' would have been nice.........
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the your quick reply first of all!

You know I am 44 and a have been riding for 31 years. I had several different bikes starting with russian bikes through even 176 HP japanese sport bikes. My previous bike was a Suzuki 1400 Intruder. I was not interested too much in Harleys until my friend bought a '97 EVO last year.
Man that bike is a real living one! It has no balance shaft and has that ta-tata-ta-tata type famous unique idle sound that my bike does not really have.
Sometimes it comes out for a couple of minutes (a couple of minutes after cold start) but then it goes back over 1000RPM again.
So with no experience about Harleys I bought my softail before xmas and started to build it. Otherwise I am satisfied with this baby so far. It has enough torque and the handling is quite good.
By the way my original profession is car mechanic so I do understand that a bit higher idle speed makes technical sense but I don't care. I won't stop until I fix this "problem". I don't want to go under 700RPM but the factory setup really sucks!
I'm just surprised that other people don't complain about missing this original Harley sound character.
 

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idle

I guess I don't complain about the high idle for two reasons:

1.) it's better for the bike
2.) I don't spend enough time sitting around with the engine idling to be concerned about it.

I'm sorry that you don't like the way your bike idles, but that's just the way it is designed. Maybe your best bet would be to sell your TC Softail and buy an Evo powered bike? There are plenty of very nice evos on the market and they will give you that more "traditional" sound and ride.
 

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A Noo Boy wrestles with EFI

Your not alone out there Ele.
I'm having trouble living with this fuel injection. I was all for throwing the EFI into a bin, but was persuaded by various articles to stay with it. I have installed a Power Commander IIIB, the problems are high tick over and the feeling that the fuel does not shut off fully when you close the throttle. In various articles, the Power Commander is seen as the poor brother to the
Screaming Eagle Race Tuner Kit. As a newcomer to this forum, already I'm disappointed to read that the tick over on SERTcannot be dropped to 700 RPM, personally I would have liked 600 RPM, Its my bike, not Harleys and I want it to go potato-potato and not sound like a Ducati...I do not have any answers but will give the fuel injection a go for a bit longer and hope to learn more..good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One more thing

This high idle RPM just ain't fun!

Two more reasons:

1) When I switch 1st gear it clicks so loud that the whole bike wants to fall apart. I feel like a beginner at the traffic light. Is it good for the tranny?

2) When I shift gear upwards the RPM does not drop low enough and I just cannot switch as professionally as I would like to. (Only experienced riders know what my point is)

Answering some previous notes I don't know if the service guy saved the setting correctly on my bike. He definitely changed something because under some conditions the RPM is lower now. (And it is awesome during those couple of seconds) I can imagine that there are some other conditions in the program just overwritting (overruling) the hot idle RPM setting. If there is somebody reading this note with on hand Harley EFI experience please advise.
 

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Don't know why some folks are so focused on getting their Harley to sound like an old 1 lung Ingersol-Rand hit & miss engine. Put a set of S&S 510 cams in it and it will lope real nice at 1k rpm.
AP
 

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how to lower your idle rpm

I dont think you should run your bike at that rpm. If you must find a dealer with a Digital Tech. and someone who knows how to use it. You have to have the engine at temp. and know where to go in the digital tech tool bar. Once you have the bike to temp two arrows will show up. One is to adjust the idle up and one to go down. When you make your changes there is a box to save your changes. You cant adjust the idle with a scanalizer, it will only allow you to raise or lower the idle for tests only. I hope this info helps you.
 

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ELE said:
This high idle RPM just ain't fun!

Two more reasons:

1) When I switch 1st gear it clicks so loud that the whole bike wants to fall apart. I feel like a beginner at the traffic light. Is it good for the tranny?

2) When I shift gear upwards the RPM does not drop low enough and I just cannot switch as professionally as I would like to. (Only experienced riders know what my point is)

Answering some previous notes I don't know if the service guy saved the setting correctly on my bike. He definitely changed something because under some conditions the RPM is lower now. (And it is awesome during those couple of seconds) I can imagine that there are some other conditions in the program just overwritting (overruling) the hot idle RPM setting. If there is somebody reading this note with on hand Harley EFI experience please advise.
Primary chain and clutch adjustment should take care of the shiffting issues. Lightning fast upshifts and a Harley may not work together....
 

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XLIII
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ELE said:
1) ...When I switch 1st gear it clicks so loud that the whole bike wants to fall apart. I feel like a beginner at the traffic light. Is it good for the tranny?...

At what speed are you downshifting to first?
 

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Doing time, behind bars!
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That's not a BUG ...........

ELE said:
2) When I shift gear upwards the RPM does not drop low enough and I just cannot switch as professionally as I would like to. (Only experienced riders know what my point is)
It is a FEATURE, to steal a Microsoft line, not sure if the USA models got it or not, but it is a secret project H-D worked on called the Anti-Blip or Blipless model

Some members know about this but are afraid to speak of it ......... probably EPA related, worried about how much fuel you burn up

:whistle:
 

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Ele
Again I agree. The gear change has always clunked on the Harleys, part of the character,however it does seem more severe on the EFI's especially
when they are running cold with higher RPM. The throttle also does not seem to shut off cleanly when you back off on the throttle. I thought this was
because I had fitted the Power Commander and only modified the signal and not changed the signal as the SERT appears to. Look in the engine mods forum, there are members who have converted from EFI to carbs. Here in the EFI forum these are the converted! Meanwhile I'll will hang around to learn more if thats ok! Mike
 
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