V-Twin Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for the help on an earlier post about getting the rear tire off.
Since I'm due for the 10,000 mile service, I'm gonna change out the fluids, replace the brakes, Plus the rear tire...........
I was under the impression that the clutch didn't need adjusted unless the cable didn't have any play at the lever.
I don't think the service manual says anything except after a clutch install and again at the 500 mile mark.
On another subject, what to look for with a primary chain adjustment?
2005 FLHT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,385 Posts
Greesy said:
Thanks for the help on an earlier post about getting the rear tire off.
Since I'm due for the 10,000 mile service, I'm gonna change out the fluids, replace the brakes, Plus the rear tire...........
I was under the impression that the clutch didn't need adjusted unless the cable didn't have any play at the lever.
I don't think the service manual says anything except after a clutch install and again at the 500 mile mark.
On another subject, what to look for with a primary chain adjustment?
2005 FLHT.
I adjust mine every 5000 miles whether it needs it or not. Sometimes you will be suprised that it in fact needed adjusting even tho you did not realize it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
I check it every 5-10K miles, but I have not had to adjust it since I put an White Bros kit in to make the [email protected] easier to pull. Darn Cop clutch spring!

As far as the primary, you need to check your year specific shop manual for the hot and cold measurements.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,624 Posts
I adjust it when it needs it. I can only recall it needing it once in 67k miles. That was after doing slow races for about an hour.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
75 Posts
Greesy said:
Thanks for the help on an earlier post about getting the rear tire off.
Since I'm due for the 10,000 mile service, I'm gonna change out the fluids, replace the brakes, Plus the rear tire...........
I was under the impression that the clutch didn't need adjusted unless the cable didn't have any play at the lever.
I don't think the service manual says anything except after a clutch install and again at the 500 mile mark.
On another subject, what to look for with a primary chain adjustment?
2005 FLHT.
I check mine at the recommended service intervals. As for the primary chain I would get an automatic adjuster. I did on my 05 Flht and never had to check it again. It also made my primary quieter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,765 Posts
I adjusted mine at the 5,000 mile service. It needs to be adjusted the next time I sevice it. Im at 52,000 miles now. If you are easy on it and not slipping the crap out of it or drag racing you should be OK doing it around every 20,000 or so miles. You will be able to tell at your lever if is needing adjustment.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
685 Posts
Mtclassic said:
I adjust mine every 5000 miles whether it needs it or not. Sometimes you will be suprised that it in fact needed adjusting even tho you did not realize it.
If It doesn't need to be ajusted why would you do it????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,385 Posts
03 Roadking said:
If It doesn't need to be ajusted why would you do it????
because it is easy to do and it makes me feel good. I'm a motor and I slip my clutch all the time and I like having perfect clutch action. I can tell if my clutch is the slightest bit out of adjustment and for the 10 minutes it takes every 5000 miles it is well worth it to have it perfect. I welded a nut on the end of an 11/16inch socket to make it that much easier. I had to check my comp nut the other day and pulled my clutch down and after 50,000 miles it still looks like new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
I think most will find that adjusting the clutch (at the basket) closer to the 1/2 turn end of the adjustment scale rather than 3/4 turn as many do, will give them a smoother operation and the adjustment will last longer with just lever cable adjustments.

I always adjust mine to a half turn out, set the cable to almost NO slack, cold and check for slippage (accellerate hard once or twice). It has never slipped and I don't need to adjust again unlesslthe tranny gets "clunky". Since the slack increases as the bike warms up, this method eliminates the drag that can cause the clunk. It amazes me how many relate the clunk to the type of gear lube used. It is true that a thick oil like Redline HDSP can slow the gears down as they spin and make shifts smoother but most shifting problems are from clutch drag, caused by too much slack OR too much primary juice.

EZ
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top