That's the longest "It wasn't my fault" ever.
You must be a math teacher. Sounds like you are really trying to justify that oil change kit you bought. I wonder how I have been able to not wear out anything over millions of miles without using this device.Final thoughts from three years of experience and oil changes .... 5 quarts in total HD TC-88 Engine Lube System.
Re- 6 qts oil... was actually shy of 5 qts (fat fingered)..too ling ago to remember...
Now using a CORS tool to drain 95% of dirty oil form my bike each oil change...
Most who change 3.5 quarts are changing only 112 of 160 oz total capacity meaning you are changing only 70% of your bike's oil...analogy- it would be like letting the local oil monkey at the quick change shop drain 5 quarts from your new truck, put in 3.5 qts of new oil and put 1.5 qts of the crap they just drained back into the motor... but, hey thats the way the dealers do it, so it must be OK, right?
I get 95% changed now, and love looking at amber colored oil for up to 2,000 miles after each change, and knowing that only about 1% of the original oil that cam in my Harley is still in her....most everyone else doing the standard H-D recommended oil changes still have 3 oz of the original H-D factory oil in their bikes at 50,000 and have 50,000 miles of wear with minimally 30% of lubrication fluids worn out just after a "fresh oil change". By changing 95% of the oil in a bike with 10,000 miles, with 2 CORS oil changes I am down to less than 1 % of original Factory Oil, and each oil change has only 5% (8 oz) of dirty oil recirculating in my engine after a "fresh oil change"...
Bye for now....
You must be a math teacher. Sounds like you are really trying to justify that oil change kit you bought. I wonder how I have been able to not wear out anything over millions of miles without using this device.
On a serious note the oil left in any motor does not hurt anything and your device does not get everything out like they are trying to get you to believe, but if it makes you sleep better keep doing it.
Also on one of your previous post you mentioned about oil bottles being underfilled. Most are filled by weight and done correctly, but may look low due to the plastic expanding and the fluid then looking lower in the bottle. Also the HD oil filter does not hold a quart like you mentioned. When you remove it and drain it you will get more like 3 to 4 ounces is all. I think i will go for a ride and try to wear out my bike with that dirty oil in it. Been trying to wear out my bikes for over 40 years now and i guess I am not doing a good job.
I apologize for being a little hard on you for having different points of views on servicing Harleys. To each his own. My mention of the miles I have road is a combination of all my bikes since 1964, including everything since like my diesel tractors, RV, even my airplane, plus the thousands of bikers I have sold oil to over the last 32 years with many of them having over 200,000 miles on them and still running great without any rebuild other than cam shoes and minor repairs. Just trying to point out that this 30/70% used oil mix you refer to doesn't amount to much.George, I am not a math teacher actually was my worst subject, until i had applied algebra with electronics, then the switches turned on to a whole new world...and good to know someone else on here is still riding mid-70's shovels..40+ years of riding and still haven't worn out a bike (s) oh, that is multiples ...curious of how many miles you have put on a single bike and how long it took for you to get blow by in the rings, valve guides and loosen up the tolerances on your crank, cams, etc? Shovels were good for about 50-60 K before a rebuild... But that was before good QC methods were placed into production in American vehicle manufacturing.
I have about 45,000 on my Roadie, have ridden cross country for multiple 600mile plus days, and trust will keep doing so for another five years or to 100,000 miles.
Yepper a good harley will go 100,000 miles (even with dinosaur lube) and interestingly enough, I am guessing you run synthetic oil in your bike due to the lower engine temperatures abated through synth ( temps created by friction and larger sizes of displacement), the fact that synths don't break down under extreme heat and cause wear?
My CORS tool cost a mere twenty bucks, and not trying to justify the cost...heck no, but it is laughable that one would drain the oil from any vehicle (especially one that is air cooled) and then refill with 30% of the oil just drained.... I think it is due to most folks not putting more than a couple thousand miles (if that) each year, trading their bikes off every few years, and harley realizing there will be other issues that will cause breakdowns before the engine oil takes its toll..., e.g, evo cam bearings, early twin cams with spring-loaded cam tensioners, (getting ready to drop $2grand for high pressure oil pump and hydraulic tensioners...getting cams, pushrods while in there). I love my harley, don't mind working on her, but from an engineering standpoint, harley has to been dragged kicking into innovation at every step, with the exception of V-Rod and most traditional h-d riders won't ever go near one, much less own one. As they say, you just can't argue with a hundred and ten year history...even if they did take a bailout and are buying credits annually from the EPA for running above the emissions standards limits each year...
BTW, I understand Cummins did testing on dry sump partial engine oil changes and determined that with good filtration they will go 1 million miles plus without a rebuild... But, these diesels are water cooled....
You go ahead run a 30/70 mix of dirty oil and trade bikes every few years and I will run cleaner 5/95 and run mine until she has no life left... Probably doesn't matter a hill of beans at the end of the road of life....I was just raised to to the job in the best manner possible... And IMHO, this is the best way...
5 quarts is still the answer for my bike....thanks for all of the retorts and no actual answers to the question...
Most likely when you drained your oil there was still some oil down in the crank case that wasn't returned to the oil tank. This happens if you let your bike set for quite awhile before draining the oil. If the bike hasn't been run close to the time of draining the oil from the tank can migrate back to the crankcase causing an over serviced condition when you put in the amount it calls for.Calls for 3.5on my standard, put in 3 but still shows overfill, took some out with turkey Baster
No body ever completely drained an 88" on here?
Ah, shucks guys, I thought at least one of you had completely drained the oil out of their own bike!!!
Let's add a little more to the story and see if anyone can help....
I figured while under the bike I would drain tranny too; no sense getting the oil pan back under later when only the viscocity is different.
Again, I am looking for a knowledgeable mechanic who has built a bike and filled the fluids (including the baffle compartment in the oil pan) from a dry condition. I may drain engine oil pan and tranny oil compartment again from the correct holes and measure the fluid removed and then remove the filter and drain it as well.
If this proves me wrong, then fine...but if this shows that a typical oil change only removes about 70% of the oil in the system, and the rest of you are only getting a partial oil change, then who is getting a better fluid change?