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Discussion Starter #161
So on the crank you have a washer, the spacer and then the rotor? And you measured the spacer and compared it to the old one?

If all of that stack is exactly as it should be, then there might be something up with the nut. Bottoming out on the threads before its actually tight?
Does anyone happen to know what depth the right side or cam side crankshaft bearing is supposed to be set too. I have the tool but before removing I checked it and it was at 17/64. Now I’ve installed the new one and it’s at 3/8. Before it was different on each side of crankcase and now it’s dead centered.
 

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Does anyone happen to know what depth the right side or cam side crankshaft bearing is supposed to be set too. I have the tool but before removing I checked it and it was at 17/64. Now I’ve installed the new one and it’s at 3/8. Before it was different on each side of crankcase and now it’s dead centered.
The right side case bearing installation depth is set by the tool set (3 tools) used to install it. You can measure it to the case, and then install the new bearing to match. But this is not recommended, because the bearings are known to creep to the right in use.

There is no spec published for the position of the bearing, just flush to slightly recessed as a description.

It should be noted, the tool guides the bearing perpendicular into the bore. Free pressing or driving the bearing into place can ruin the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Yeah I was afraid it walked. I just set it the depth of the tool I bought just to do it. Plus it seams to make more common sense that the bearing would supposed to be dead center since it’s just a press fit roller bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
The right side case bearing installation depth is set by the tool set (3 tools) used to install it. You can measure it to the case, and then install the new bearing to match. But this is not recommended, because the bearings are known to creep to the right in use.

There is no spec published for the position of the bearing, just flush to slightly recessed as a description.

It should be noted, the tool guides the bearing perpendicular into the bore. Free pressing or driving the bearing into place can ruin the case.
My washer I not chamfered like the one in photo. Harley part 8972. The one I removed from my bike is just a flat washer. No chamfer at all. The next spacer is chamfered both sides then the seal. But my washer doesn’t read out on it nor is it chamfered. :unsure::unsure:
what is your favorite engine assembly lube aNd why if you dint MiNd.
 

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My washer I not chamfered like the one in photo. Harley part 8972. The one I removed from my bike is just a flat washer. No chamfer at all. The next spacer is chamfered both sides then the seal. But my washer doesn’t read out on it nor is it chamfered. :unsure::unsure:
what is your favorite engine assembly lube aNd why if you dint MiNd.

If I had any doubts about that spacer washer, I would just grab a new one.

Set up lube is just sticky oil. It may have some high pressure additives for flat tappet cams, but you don't need that on a Harley motor. I generally use whatever I got for free. But with that said, there are exceptions. Flat tappet cams need molly paste. Tappets should only have motor oil for pre fill. And only motor oil for the piston skirts/cylinder walls.

On motor with fresh jugs, I like to start them out on lighter oil. 10-40 Rotella or some other C classified oil. Then add about a pint of Lucas to it. Then drain it out after the first 100 miles or so.

If I don't have any free set up oil, then I'll mix 50/50 oil with Lucas oil treatment. When I'm done with the setup, I just pour the leftover into the motor. Its been a while since I needed to do that, these days everyone is giving away setup lube.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
If I had any doubts about that spacer washer, I would just grab a new one.

Set up lube is just sticky oil. It may have some high pressure additives for flat tappet cams, but you don't need that on a Harley motor. I generally use whatever I got for free. But with that said, there are exceptions. Flat tappet cams need molly paste. Tappets should only have motor oil for pre fill. And only motor oil for the piston skirts/cylinder walls.

On motor with fresh jugs, I like to start them out on lighter oil. 10-40 Rotella or some other C classified oil. Then add about a pint of Lucas to it. Then drain it out after the first 100 miles or so.

If I don't have any free set up oil, then I'll mix 50/50 oil with Lucas oil treatment. When I'm done with the setup, I just pour the leftover into the motor. Its been a while since I needed to do that, these days everyone is giving away setup lube.
So wow I bought new thrust washer and the one I removed had zero chamfer the new one has great chamfer along with the word out stamped in it. So someone has been in this motor before and done some work. They just installed a flat washer back in place of the chamfered thrust washer. Granted it may be same thickness I haven’t checked yet but visually you can see difference night and day. I was asking about the lube just because everyone says this and that just wondered what your thoughts were on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
No not al all. However I still have same issue when I tighten the compensator nut I have resistance in my pushrods from spinning freely. I’ve placed every part exactly as should be according to the book. I’m going to grab a stator now and see if it makes any difference
 

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However I still have same issue when I tighten the compensator nut I have resistance in my pushrods from spinning freely.
I'm scratching my head over that one. It's been years since I had the compensator nut loose but when I tightened it, checking the pushrods never crossed my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
Dang spell checker. I’m sorry. When I tighten compensator nut im having issue with the rotor. The rotor spins with the crank and it rest up against the spacer which goes through the seal and presses against the thrust washer which is against the bearing. The issue I’m having is where the rotor and spacer make contact. The rotor is wearing a groove in itself by spinning freely against the spacer. It seams they would have installed a bearing or something there but it doesn’t.
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That’s the old rotor but the new one will do the same eventually. I just don’t see how they thought this was good.
thanks
bW
 

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brien,, this is a long thread,, and I'm too lazy to reread the whole thing,, so,, if I make a few mistakes in an explanation,, or it has already been answered by therm, or another, real harley wrench,, with the tools and knowledge,,,,, my apologies...

have you checked the crank kshaft endplay,,, and pinion bearing running clearances?
 

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Discussion Starter #172
My washer I not chamfered like the one in photo. Harley part 8972. The one I removed from my bike is just a flat washer. No chamfer at all. The next spacer is chamfered both sides then the seal. But my washer doesn’t read out on it nor is it chamfered. :unsure::unsure:
what is your favorite engine assembly lube aNd why if you dint MiNd.
brien,, this is a long thread,, and I'm too lazy to reread the whole thing,, so,, if I make a few mistakes in an explanation,, or it has already been answered by therm, or another, real harley wrench,, with the tools and knowledge,,,,, my apologies...

have you checked the crank kshaft endplay,,, and pinion bearing running clearances?
yes and We just replaced with new S&S crank. The pinion runout is .001 and end play is all but nothing when things are tightened up.
 

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Have someone remove .050 in. off of the end of the compensator nut.That will ensure that the nut is tightening down on all of the components and not just bottoming out .The only way that rotor can spin on the flywheel is if the splines were stripped out.It can rock if the nut is too long, bottoms out and the rotor is able to rock.
 

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brian is it a timken crank, or a floater on the sprocket shaft side,, sorry I just not up for reading 180 replies.. thx

btw,, you have had some first class help in this thread..
 

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Discussion Starter #176
It’s a floater and it feels like definitely feels as it’s bottoming out when I tighten to the specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #177
She’s getting close. 😀
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What an adventure it has been. The damn tools are what cost all the money.
 
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