V-Twin Forum banner

141 - 160 of 189 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #143
So yeah I found the washer behind the spacer. I used a drive and rubber mallet not seal installer. I made one out of piece of 2" or 1.5" I dont recall. but one of them was perfect size so we made one out of the PVC pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #145
I'm sorry I mis-typed the number we are a little under the 2 on the dial indicator. The only thing I see wrong with these wheels is the side to side free-play is exactly .020 and the book says anything over .020.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #147
So at this point since I have new valves,seals, etc in the heads. What is the best way for me to clean them without drying the seals out or whatever.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,932 Posts
So at this point since I have new valves,seals, etc in the heads. What is the best way for me to clean them without drying the seals out or whatever.
Take them apart and throw the seals away. Keep the valves in order so they go back in the same hole.

Blow the castings out with compressed air. Then wash with what ever, soap and waster is fine, just don't let anything rust. CRC 5-56 works good for this. Use new seals, and be sure to protect them from the keeper groves when you run the valves through.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,932 Posts
I watched a little video on that. A guy had a shifted crank that measured like 012 out. He had a socket welded to the drive end of a compensator, and hammered on it with a 3/4 inch impact gun for about 30 seconds It went down to .004 run out when he spun it the second time.

Then he set the wheels in a big press, the way we did to torque bolted cranks. Hit it again with the impact, and re jigged it. It was 001.

No in the interest of honesty, he could have spent hours doing that and only showed us the end result, the video was clipped. But he sure made it look easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
But, unless it is pinned, that crank could slip, and each movement would be easier and easier, unless it galled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #152
I ordered the new crank. Something is going on one way or the other and it all comes down to the crank. Every single witness mark or whatever could have been caused by debris or crank. The oil analyst got with me today and said all looked normal for amount of time on bike and etc. but for some reason I find that hard to understand. I’ve been Cleaning sparkles for days. Plus the primary plug looked like it had Afro. One thing I’m not understanding is my alternator rotor has rubbed against the spacer and caused hell of a groove. I double and triple checked with all of you, with dealer, with book, everything is complete nothing missing and in order. The shaft comes out of case. Then the washer, then the spacer, then seal and that’s it. There’s nothing more to it. Some reason my rotor is spinning on the spacer and we’ll check it out and please tell me wha5 this could possibly be. First picture I’ve just set the spacer inside rotor so you would see what I’m saying
264256
264257

264258
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,932 Posts
I ordered the new crank. Something is going on one way or the other and it all comes down to the crank. Every single witness mark or whatever could have been caused by debris or crank. The oil analyst got with me today and said all looked normal for amount of time on bike and etc. but for some reason I find that hard to understand. I’ve been Cleaning sparkles for days. Plus the primary plug looked like it had Afro. One thing I’m not understanding is my alternator rotor has rubbed against the spacer and caused hell of a groove. I double and triple checked with all of you, with dealer, with book, everything is complete nothing missing and in order. The shaft comes out of case. Then the washer, then the spacer, then seal and that’s it. There’s nothing more to it. Some reason my rotor is spinning on the spacer and we’ll check it out and please tell me wha5 this could possibly be. First picture I’ve just set the spacer inside rotor so you would see what I’m saying
View attachment 264256 View attachment 264257
View attachment 264258
So on the crank you have a washer, the spacer and then the rotor? And you measured the spacer and compared it to the old one?

If all of that stack is exactly as it should be, then there might be something up with the nut. Bottoming out on the threads before its actually tight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #155
Does anyone know the specs on the washer that is against the left bearing and case. I’m trying to find out how thick it actually is. It’s number 4 in this photo. I can not find specs anywhere.
264270
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Does anyone know the specs on the washer that is against the left bearing and case. I’m trying to find out how thick it actually is. It’s number 4 in this photo. I can not find specs anywhere. View attachment 264270
Brian, I just wanted to say that I admire your determination on this project. Most people wouldn't have the nerve to attempt a rebuild of this size. The only people who haven't made mistakes are the ones who have never tried to do anything difficult. You will be an expert at the end of this project and you will enjoy your ride because YOU fixed it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Looking at pictures of that part online, it looks like one side of the washer could have a chamfer on the inside on one side. If so, was it installed with the chamfer pointing the right direction? Just a guess and probably out in left field.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #158
Brian, I just wanted to say that I admire your determination on this project. Most people wouldn't have the nerve to attempt a rebuild of this size. The only people who haven't made mistakes are the ones who have never tried to do anything difficult. You will be an expert at the end of this project and you will enjoy your ride because YOU fixed it.
Thank you. I can tell you one thing. I know every bolt and nut on this bike now. It’s been an adventure. Things are starting to work out much better this time around since I’ve done it all a couple of times now. At least now I understand why things go the way they do instead of just doing what the book says like before. Now I know why it says what it says and what each thing does. I appreciate your kind words. I hope you have a great week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #159
Just for future reference I poured the new break in oil I had remaining out last night and it had extra quantities of zinc in it for the break in period. All be damn if it did not have the metal sheen or shine to it that I was speaking of when I thought I had metal shavings in my new oil. That oil shines Silver just like it has very very fine metal shavings in it. That’s why my test and everything came back normal. I didn’t have excess metal shavings it was just the oil itself. When you pour it out it has a shiny silver sheen to it. Looks like fine particles of metal. May be I don’t know. It did have extra zinc added into it for break in. I’m goin* to use regular 20-50 Dino this time around. Just thought I’d let you guys know about this oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #160
Looking at pictures of that part online, it looks like one side of the washer could have a chamfer on the inside on one side. If so, was it installed with the chamfer pointing the right direction? Just a guess and probably out in left field.
I never removed the washer only the spacer. The spacer is chamfered on both sides. It had to be the compensator. One of the springs actually separated. Other then that everything is exactly the same. The only item In There i replaced at that time was the nut.
 
141 - 160 of 189 Posts
Top