V-Twin Forum banner

121 - 140 of 189 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #121
Stator cover? I think you mean the alternator rotor. Pull it off and see if its been hitting anything on the under side.

As for that .020 on the rod, .021 is a throwaway. You really want to run a wheel set that is right on the discard point?

To check sprocket shaft run out, use a dial indicator. Measure off the outer surface of the splines.
Śo when you say do you really want to run set right at throw away do you mean that like cmon man you don’t want to do that or do you mean that’s really where you. Want to run it.
than
I mean, do you really want to do that.

I would and have run some near end of life parts, but not when I'm spending $100 bills left and right on other stuff. Running a wheel set like that is for when you run 10 over rings in worn standard jugs with knurled pistons, and used fleabay cams with lapped valves in knurled guides. It works for a little while, and then it don't.
ok I’m going to change. Your correct. I’ve spent so dang much it’s just hard to pull the trigger but at this point I don’t want to do again in 10k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
Śo when you say do you really want to run set right at throw away do you mean that like cmon man you don’t want to do that or do you mean that’s really where you. Want to run it.
than

ok I’m going to change. Your correct. I’ve spent so dang much it’s just hard to pull the trigger but at this point I don’t want to do again in 10k miles.
Thank you for talking sense into me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,988 Posts
Śo when you say do you really want to run set right at throw away do you mean that like cmon man you don’t want to do that or do you mean that’s really where you. Want to run it.
thanks
bw
He's saying you're at the end of life. Think about a rebuild or crate motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
He's saying you're at the end of life. Think about a rebuild or crate motor.
This is a rebuild. Everything new except case at this point. I would have done a crate I had opportunity for really nice one but this started out as a shifter pawl. Grew from there. It’s been heck of experience. I can honestly say I know every bolt and screw on this thing. Thermodyme was correct I was just worrying too much on few things like the scratches on clutch basket and the grease pouring down it. There is no way for the chain to rub there unless it pops off the teeth. Everything was great until 8 threw those heads on hastily. I actually called the head guy the day I recieved and asked if he washed them and of course his answer was yes. However you guys are correct just because they spray down there’s still a ton of crap in there just like when you hone your cylinders. Man it sure ran great those 21 miles though. Lol. I’ll get my new flywheel, jugs, and pistons back next week and get her back together though. I wantednto learn and man did I. I couldn’t have done without your guys help. I appreciate it more then you know. Shane Connely has also been great. He’s great guy. Answers his phone and spends the time to explain things to me whenever I call. Thank you guys.
BW
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
I understand how to measure the sprocket side runout. I can’t find the specs in book. I guess honestly though I should do the total. Both sides added together to really tell you what the run out is. The springs are worn out in my compensator also. When compensator was completely off it was hitting magnets. the cover was hitting stator. well 3rd times a charm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
ok she’s broken all the way down. Dropped oil pan. Everything I’d spotless clean except Lille work left but all the oil pump, cam plate,oil lines, case inside and out. Primarychain and clutch plates. Everything cleaned up as brand new. Then surand wrapped up tight waiting on new wheels and bearings etc for the reinstall. Going to polish the fins and get all that looking great while waiting on the wheels and etc. she should be about as perfect as I can get it. Thanks for the help. I’ll be talking to ya soon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
So when I put my cam on the base circle my piston is not all the way up at top dead center. Why? Shouldn’t it be. I’m rototsing wheel until both lifters are moving up and down on the rear cylinder and no movement out of the front lifters and they are down at bottom of bore. This Has my front lifters on the base circle of cam. I would think the piston would also be all the way up at top dead center but it’s not. Is that correct?
Top dead center means the piston is all the way up. The cams have to be set to match the piston stroke. When I check cam timing I take the spark plug out, put a punch in the hole and use a dial micrometer to check the top of the piston stroke. If the valves aren't all the way closed the cams are out of time.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
20,455 Posts
Top dead center means the piston is all the way up. The cams have to be set to match the piston stroke. When I check cam timing I take the spark plug out, put a punch in the hole and use a dial micrometer to check the top of the piston stroke. If the valves aren't all the way closed the cams are out of time.
Valves are closed at TDC of the power stroke only. Most engines will have both valves slightly open at TDC of the exhaust stroke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
So thermodyme. When I originally replaced the crank seal behind the alternator cover I also replaced the spacer that’s in there. However my bike did not have a spacer or shim whatever to bring the alternator cover out. Only the one that’s more like a inner race. No washer or shim nothing like that and my book also does not speak of this shim either. But the clicking feeling I feel when rotating engine by hand is the magnets from the cover rubbing on the stator. What would cause this? It did it before I even started this build but like I say when you tighten the compensator nut it all but goes away. You can only very slightly feel it. Very very light just like the magnets are barely if at all touching the stator but if you loosen that compensator nut it’s horrible. Could this be the compensator springs are just worn out or do I need to shim this thing. I bought a new stator and cover about month ago and just returned last week because I thought problem was corrected until I loosened the compensator nut again the other night.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
I did use impact in the nut also. I know your not supposed too but I had to go break that thing loose originally.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
20,455 Posts
So thermodyme. When I originally replaced the crank seal behind the alternator cover I also replaced the spacer that’s in there. However my bike did not have a spacer or shim whatever to bring the alternator cover out. Only the one that’s more like a inner race. No washer or shim nothing like that and my book also does not speak of this shim either. But the clicking feeling I feel when rotating engine by hand is the magnets from the cover rubbing on the stator. What would cause this? It did it before I even started this build but like I say when you tighten the compensator nut it all but goes away. You can only very slightly feel it. Very very light just like the magnets are barely if at all touching the stator but if you loosen that compensator nut it’s horrible. Could this be the compensator springs are just worn out or do I need to shim this thing. I bought a new stator and cover about month ago and just returned last week because I thought problem was corrected until I loosened the compensator nut again the other night.
If your motor has a roller bearing on the left side of the case, there is a washer that goes in before the spacer and seal. Earlier timken bearing cases do not use the washer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
I did use impact in the nut also. I know your not supposed too but I had to go break that thing loose originally. This is the side with the new seal and everything still in it. This is the Timken correct.
264227
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter #136
Also I keep everything here’s pic of old spacer with witness mark. View attachment 264228
Dang I’ve checked the runout on both sides. I’ve got about 3thousands on primary side and pinion gear is 17thousandth. I just can’t find anything other then my side to side being at limit. There is quite a bit bluing but I think that’s original. Here’s pic isn’t this just the way it is.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
20,455 Posts
I did use impact in the nut also. I know your not supposed too but I had to go break that thing loose originally. This is the side with the new seal and everything still in it. This is the Timken correct.
2006 used roller bearings on both sides, so you should have a washer behind the spacer.

Did you use a seal installer to put that seal in? They don't like being driven in with just a hammer and drift.
 
121 - 140 of 189 Posts
Top