In a strange way there is almost no difference between this setup. The 98 needle is a little leaner then the 97 needle so the richer pilot tends to compensate a bit.
Generally speaking here in Phoenix with that engine combination a good starting point would be real close to either. Personally I would start with the 20 pilot and if you want to avoid buying the 98 needle (should come with the 97) you can drop the 97 all the way in, ie clip in the top groove, just to get a reference. The 50 pump nozzle is a must (should come with a 70) and the 165 main is a good start.
It is very important to get the accel pump adjustments right, both the start and the end. The best setting for the screw on top of the carb body which is the end is usually turned all the way in to where the head is flush with the carb body. The start screw on the throttle lever is easy to get to with the carb on the bike, the more you turn it in the later the pump starts, geberally you want it to come in inmediately off idle.
To give you some sort of idea, very generally speaking the stock 97 needle with the clip in the very top groove is roughly the same as the 98 needle with the clip in the middle groove. The reason you don't run the needle with the clip in the extreme grooves is that if you want to make a minor adjustment you have to go and find another needle, other then that it's no biggie.
These carbs are real flexible and the bike will run fine with any of these settings, but if it isn't spot on it will cost you big time in fuel mileage.
Don't forget to cut the top fins on both cylinders for clearance with the carb bowl. It will look like it fits without the cutting, but the carb will not be level and it will affect the float level some as well as transmit heat into the carb body. All you have to cut is a piece maybe 3/8" wide and 1/2" to 3/4" deep off each fin and you can't see it with the carb on the bike. 2 minutes with a die grinder.