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Discussion Starter #21
Not much for my 2005 in PDF, unless they merged all three in the single file (might be at 1400+ pages). I have the paper manuals, but sometimes having a PDF version is right handy.
It would be handier if the links from the contents page worked but most of the links within the text seem to work. I'd kind of like a hard copy and will likely order one anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Easy way to test the signal circuits on each side:

Unplug connector from TSSM

Test left side:

Use a jumper wire to connect terminal 1 and terminal 5 on connector (not tssm).

Turn ignition switch on, turn signal bulbs and indicator bulb should illuminate.

Test right side:

Jumper wire to terminal 1 and terminal 6 on connector (not tssm).
OK. Replaced both left side bulbs with fresh ones. When I tried the signals the left front no longer lit up at all. Pulled it back out and played with the socket a little. Put it back in and it worked. Kind of odd and concerning but moved on the jumper test.

Got the same result with the jumper in the 5 or 6 position. Both front bulbs illuminate, right rear bulb illuminates and right indicator illuminates. And of course the security light comes on. With the jumper in place it throws the same u1255 code, loss of serial data. Makes sense.

With the jumper in place I tested voltage to the two rear signal sockets. I got 11.5 to the right(working) one and 28 on the left(bad) one. So I guess there's a short someplace like a lot of guys above have been saying?
 

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You sure you read 28 on the left rear? DC volts? I don't know of any voltage source on your bike without the engine running where you can get more than the battery voltage.

And you are jumping pin 1 which is only 12 volts to to pin 5 (the left blinkers). You sure it was not .28 volts that you read?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You sure you read 28 on the left rear? DC volts? I don't know of any voltage source on your bike without the engine running where you can get more than the battery voltage.

And you are jumping pin 1 which is only 12 volts to to pin 5 (the left blinkers). You sure it was not .28 volts that you read?
yea sorry it was 28mv. millivolts? so negligible power.
 

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Where were you placing the + and - leads? If you were measuring in the socket to a good ground, you have a open wire between the TSSM and the rear signal. I had a rear tail light that would not illuminate. It was just a bad ground at the socket. If you were just reading from the inside of the socket to the outside of the socket, ground the outside of the socket with a temporary wire to a known good ground (like battery neg terminal) and if the light comes on, the socket has a bad ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Where were you placing the + and - leads? If you were measuring in the socket to a good ground, you have a open wire between the TSSM and the rear signal. I had a rear tail light that would not illuminate. It was just a bad ground at the socket. If you were just reading from the inside of the socket to the outside of the socket, ground the outside of the socket with a temporary wire to a known good ground (like battery neg terminal) and if the light comes on, the socket has a bad ground.
tried that and got the same reading.

Now I'm getting front signals solid and nothing on the rear regardless of the location of the jumper. I'm wondering about this TSSM socket. Does it come apart?
 

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No idea unless you blew the right rear bulb! You really need someone with electrical experience to help you before you mess something up.
 

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Yeah, time to start checking wire to wire in continuity or resistance mode and see what's broken. I'm guessing that either under the tank or around the neck is where your problem lies. When I ran the air line and extra wires for air ride and dash cam through mine, the tank was pretty difficult to get back on. Took a while to get everything laying flat again.

Try twisting the the steering from one side to the other when checking things, if it suddenly works/changes, you have your answer.

How much does a used harness for your year cost? Might be worth it to save the time to track it down and splice the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
No idea unless you blew the right rear bulb! You really need someone with electrical experience to help you before you mess something up.
Nah I've tried multiple new bulbs. Traced wires under the rear fender and don't see any bad insulation or bare wires.

I'm about the bail on it because A. I don't have the patience and B. your last line is correct.
 

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My next guess is that the wire going back to the right signal is now open also (or a bad ground). See if your rear brake light has now quit also. If so, a bad ground connection to the rear of the bike is my last guess.

And you state you "don't see any bad insulation or bare wires". You should be looking for an open wire, not a shorted wire. The insulation on a broken/open wire can look perfectly good.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I hadn't even thought about wiring to the bars honestly but now that Greg mentions it I think that's a distinct possibility. Nothing in the rear end has been messed with so I'm doubtful one of the wires in the fender is suddenly bad but the bike was hauled home in a u haul truck and I strapped it down from the bars. I was pissed so likely not really careful and may have smashed a wire in that harness.
 

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Wiring to the bars would have affected both front and rear lights, not rear only. Wiring under the tank could be flexed by moving the handlebars from right to left. I believe that's what he was referring to, not to the bar wiring where the switches are.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
OK well about half the wires coming out of the left hand control assembly are messed up so I' gonna start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Was the connector unplugged from the Turn Signal Module?

Is there an aftermarket turn signal or brake light module on the bike?
Yes, unplugged.

No, neither.

This started after bringing the bike home in a truck so it's either a result of the straps on the handlebars or removing/replacing the tank to replace the broken fuel injector.

I ordered a new left hand control wiring kit because whether that's the problem or not it will become a problem soon enough. I'll probably just remove the bundle of wires in there for the audio switch since I have no audio system and no intention of installing one. Simpler is better and it minimizes the wad of wires that has to fit under the clutch clamp.

If that doesn't fix the problem I'll let someone else figure it out for me.
 

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Yes, unplugged.

No, neither.
I think you have something going on there that is not original wiring.

When you put power to the left side lights, only the left side should light up.

When you put power to the right side lights, only the right side should light up.

Somehow the left and right have some sort of connection that is not oem configuration.

This is the kind of information that you should give when you describe the issue at the start of the thread...
 

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Discussion Starter #38
How much does a used harness for your year cost? Might be worth it to save the time to track it down and splice the wires.
No change moving the handlebars back and forth. A used harness is anywhere from $80-150 on ebay. Not a bad idea.
 

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I would remove the tank and check to see if the harness got pinched or crushed together, or if you installed any tywraps, that they are too tight and are pinching/ crushing the wires together,
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I would remove the tank and check to see if the harness got pinched or crushed together, or if you installed any tywraps, that they are too tight and are pinching/ crushing the wires together,
Did that earlier. Nothing suspect.

I just went through a turn signal trouble shooting flow chart in the electrical diagnostics manual My responses based on all the diagnositcs donw so far lead me to: check the continuity of the wire from the tssm to the socket.

I'll check that tomorrow and check that ground again but I even grounded it directly to the battery ground when I checked it for voltage earlier. So my guess is the ground is fine and I won't get continuity on the wire. Didn't get good voltage in the socket earlier. I don't think the #5 lead or wire in that connector is making a good connection to the TSSM.

Those grey and orange plugs come apart right? I don't want to break it or cut the wire but since it's in a plug I'll question if it's the wire or the connector when I don't get continuity.
 
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