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Discussion Starter #1
Am I supposed to remove the fuel gauge wire before removing tank?

I don;t see a connector for it. Don;t want to yank on the tank and pull it out without knowing first. If I lift the front up a little, I think I see the connector attached to side of frame. Very tight thought....

any thoughts?
 

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Arrogant Bastard
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Lift the tank up part way and you'll find the connector for the fuel guage on the left side of the frame. Get a helper with this, it's tough to balance the tank and pull the connector apart.




Joe
 

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Often there's a little "clip" under the tank that holds the wire up from drooping. Make sure the wire isn't under the clip. There's always enough room to lift the tank and access connector, but as previously said, it's tough to hold tank up high enough, then disconnect. A helper goes a long way.

Make sure you've removed the fuel line disconnect!
 

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Ironbutt
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I usually put a small piece of 2x4 under the rear of the tank. This lifts the tank enough to get to the wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
tank removal...

Thankx guys, sorry I didn;t get back you.

Yeah, Chooperdude, didn;t see that darn clip holder. I put a bunched up towel under tank to raise it enough to get my fingers in there to release connector from clip.

Always good to ask anyway...

Man oh man, the cables under the rubber trim is tight eah... now for the next part, removing pins from left and right hand controls connector so I can swap out stock bars with my new Chubby 504's.

For anyone who has done this, Do you think it's really worth the effort to do the internal wiring?

I'm sure I'll have other questions...
 

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Ironbutt
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ronyd said:
For anyone who has done this, Do you think it's really worth the effort to do the internal wiring?

I'm sure I'll have other questions...
Damn right. Internal is the only way to go. Don't want to ruin the look of those nice bars with some nasty wire running down the side. I've done internal wiring on a few bikes so ask away.
 

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You don't need to remove the tank to do internal wiring on the bars. undo the front mount and the rear mount. Place a rag over the rocker covers. Spray WD 40 between the tank and rubber mount. You can push the tank rearward towards the seat and have access to the Deutsch connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
internal wiring...

to miles to go,

1. Should I use some kind of lubricant on the wiring harness before feeding through bars to make it easier?

2. I got Wild 1 chuuby 504s. Yesterday I was sizing up the throttle,idle, clutch and brake line to make sure I was OK for stock length. Wild 1 has a 1" internal wiring hole, but not dimpled. When putting the control on with the clamp, I was wondering if, without the dimple, will the harness be inside the bar enough so I don;t have any crimping going on with the control clamp? Just little germlins running through my head. Just being a little anal about this stuff until I do it.

As far as getting to the point of putting the new bars on, I had no problems with tank removal, and releasing pins from the Molex connectors. Once I figured out how the mmolex connector works, I used a small pair of needlenose to pull up on the secondary lock. Then used a small paper clip to relase the pins. didn;t tsake me more than 15 minutes to do both connectors without a hitch.

I'm also installing the new Kuryakn Heat Demons that are placed inside the bar. I'm going to use the spare from the fuse block, so will be putting it on its own circuit. Thought this would be a better approach than splicing into headlight accessroy wire (which they recommended on the install procedures). Learned alot about the B+ Connector and going crazy looking for a 4 pin Deutsch connector that the Deluxe doesn;t have. These were my first options to pigtail into. But, $1.20 for a 5 amp fuse versus $20 for an adapter to use with the B+ Connector (and tieing into a 45 amp circuit..eeeeee), got a clean solution.

to crazibasid83, thankx for the tip on WD40. I'll use it to ease the pain of getting tsnk back on over the rubber trim.
 

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Regarding the stock insulation... I've often found it best to just remove that crap. It is not heat shrink, and it's not very "tight" to the wiring harness, end up tearing it as pulling it through.

Often, at our shop we would remove the stock insulation and get true heat shrink and apply that, then run that through the bars. Now, at this point, you have some ugly wires going from the exit opening of the bars down to under the tank. Well, in 06 (07?), Harley started using some really cool loom material on one of the Dyna models (Street Bob?). You could get a package of that cheap, and apply it. It looks REALLY professional. Just run it over your heat shrink, and try to jam it up the hole of the bar. Then use a tie wrap on the other end to lock it in place to the harness. It gives an excellent finished look.
 

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I guess my message did not get to you in time, you didnt need to remove the tank. If using the stock plastic wire cover, fold it in half, wrap it with electrical tape and use a lube. Dish soap works. You may want to take some 18 guage wire, route it through the bars. tape it to the loom and push and pull it through the bars.
 

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Comfortably numb.....
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You will love the 504's. Got them on my Heritage and put a set on my buddy's also. Hardest part is pulling the connectors so you're there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
loom material?

Chopperdude, what is this loom material and where would I get it?

Thankx for all the tips. I removed the tank really to get a clean look at everything. Didn;t want to start and later wished that I didn;t. Glad I did. Now I'll know I won't have any dings and scratches from dropping stuff on the tank.

Also, I just wanted to fill you in on the Heat Demons. I got anal about how to wire power to them. As mentioned, they just reccommend splicing into head light circuit (Orange/White wire), after the accessory fuse (15 amp). But, looking at the wiring diagram, the wire feeds other lights and such, so If the fuse does blow, it takes out anything on that wire. Is is possible, probably not, but I thought I would mull over other options. The B+ is another option. Just fuse the line, use the HD Adapter, and plug the Heaters into that. B+ is hot only when IGN is accessory or on. the heaters are basically isolated from everything else. they would have to take out the 30 amp circuit breaker. Then other option is to do a 12vdc Relay circuit, using a Bosch standard 5 pin SPDT relay. Overkill? Yes, but another option anyway. I have the diagram I made up for the circuit if anyone needs it.

I decided to use the B+ connector using HD accessory connector.
 
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