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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2012 Tri-Glide
Owner claims front brake comes on, hard, by itself. After the first time it happened he cleaned and flushed the reservoir. Took a test ride and front brake applied itself again, hard enough to skid the tire. .He can hear something in the mc click, then brakes release.
Anyone ever heard of something like that? I can understand and pretty much feel the return valve is not working or clogged with debris, but what would cause the brake to apply on it’s own?
New master cylinder on the parts counter waiting to be picked up tomorrow.
 

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If it comes on by itself, and nothing has been altered in the breaks. Then that only leaves two things.

An antilock issue, the maintenance records might give a clue on this.

Or the brake is dragging and as it heats up, it locks.

I guess it could also be the driver. Some people just have to ride the breaks.
 

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Does it happen so often that you would see it firsthand during a test ride? Or was it just those 2 times and hasn't happened again?

Is the owner a longtime two-wheel rider fairly new to trikes? It could be something he is doing that he doesn't realize. Trikes aren't natural.

I might be mistaken but I don't think ABS went back that far for trikes.
 

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Concur with thermodyne,,, abs issue/malfunction..
I have seen the brake pedal or lever get rock hard and brakes will not apply,,, more frequently than what you dedcribe...
Does it have the linked brake system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I’ll have to confirm, but don’t think that trike has ABS or linked brakes.

It’s only happened those two times, he’s a little leery to continue testing. I think that last lockup soiled his drawers. Long time 2 wheel rider, last 4 or 5 years on a trike for medical reasons.

I’m interested in the noise he’s hearing in the mc just before brake releases. I’m across town from him right now, I’ll get down there in the next couple days. Let you guys know what we find.

Thanks for the leads
 

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he should have felt the calipers/rotors for heat when it happened that will tell alot...with 3 wheeler the front brakes are doing a hard job/pads not in right?...yes a new caliper will prob fix it...my rears kept locking up...rebuilt em twice and still no good with a fried caliper...got cust chrome one complete...110 buks and works perfect
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think we found the issue. Right side burnt to a crisp. Left looking normal.
Font Art Gas Personal protective equipment Wood
Font Art Gas Personal protective equipment Wood

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Wood Bumper Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Caliper. Right side.
Left brake was fine, no issue.
Bike doesn’t have ABS.
Owner told me “maybe that explains why it seems to pull to the right”. He also complained about excessive brake dust.
 

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Caliper or hose?
My Ultra had a bad hose on the right front that would lock up occasionally. Evidently an internal piece of it would act like a check valve and hold pressure on the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Rotor shows heat discolor but runs straight and has no ridge. How do I check the hose? It’s oem, one piece.
 

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Rotor shows heat discolor but runs straight and has no ridge. How do I check the hose? It’s oem, one piece.
When the caliper is dragging, you open the bleeder. if that fixes it, then its hose or m/c. Only having one drag eliminates the m/c.

The reason I ask is that calipers general get tight and stay tight. Hoses can be sneaky bitches and just lock up when it not convenient to diagnose them.

As for the rotor, if its discolored, its bad. Motorheads might do fine with one rotor different than the other, but it might cross up the folks who are less adaptable to wonky feeling brakes.

Be sure to check the wheel bearings while you have the wheel off. They sometimes don't do well with dissipating that heat either.
 
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