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Sniper
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1,659 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Searched the site on this subject and the majority of posts just suggested different style bars for those looking for pullback. I just need to know if the stock wires and cables all fit simply going to the 08 and up pullback bars. The Harley catalog isn't all that helpfull on this issue. Part number 56176-08. Anyone put these on and can answer that question??
 

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Sniper
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1,659 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yea I did some more research on the net after I posted this, darn cables etc are expensive. If I spend that kinda dough I'll just go with the Wild One 577B bars I had on my 2010 FLHX. Bars n parts plus letting the dealer do the job cause it's a PITA = $1000 YIKES
 

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Meehaw
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238 Posts
Yea, I was at the dealer the other day getting my recall taken care of. The parts guy gave me an estimate on some 14 inch Chubbies. A grand, I am gonna do it myself. 6 hours at $75 an hour for labor is more than I wanna pay. It shouldn't be too bad a job.
 

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Premium Member
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171 Posts
Yea, I was at the dealer the other day getting my recall taken care of. The parts guy gave me an estimate on some 14 inch Chubbies. A grand, I am gonna do it myself. 6 hours at $75 an hour for labor is more than I wanna pay. It shouldn't be too bad a job.
6 to 8 hrs labor is the going rate to do a bar swap, internal wiring, and replace brake line and clutch cable. I've done several and it takes every bit of that amount of time to do it properly.
 

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Premium Member
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669 Posts
Check out Santee bars from Custom Chrome, half the cost of Chubby's and they the quality is the same. I did 11" apers last winter, they are more like 12" rise and came out nicely. If ya got half a brain you can do it yourself. :) Splice the wires in the middle and add plenty extra just in case you decide to go a few more inches of rise later. For me the 12" rise was perfect, I don't want my arms in the line of sight. Make sure to get the 1 piece Harley bar clamp and polyurethane bar bushings. Save the rest of the money for beer. :beer:
 

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Meehaw
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238 Posts
6 to 8 hrs labor is the going rate to do a bar swap, internal wiring, and replace brake line and clutch cable. I've done several and it takes every bit of that amount of time to do it properly.
I don't doubt that they quoted me correctly, I am just a cheap S.O.B. I am fairly good with the tool box, so I will just do it myself.
 

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Meehaw
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238 Posts
Check out Santee bars from Custom Chrome, half the cost of Chubby's and they the quality is the same. I did 11" apers last winter, they are more like 12" rise and came out nicely. If ya got half a brain you can do it yourself. :) Splice the wires in the middle and add plenty extra just in case you decide to go a few more inches of rise later. For me the 12" rise was perfect, I don't want my arms in the line of sight. Make sure to get the 1 piece Harley bar clamp and polyurethane bar bushings. Save the rest of the money for beer. :beer:
I will check them out. And beer money is important. Might be the most essential part of the job :beer:
 

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Premium Member
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1,809 Posts
Heritage softail bars will usually cure most reach issues,they are cheap and require no changes in cables or wiring.
 

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Sniper
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1,659 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
One of the biggest PITA s of the swap is the wire extensions. I used the ones from NAMZ on my last swap, saves a ton of time and they are color coded to the stock Harley wires.
 

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615 Posts
You dont need wire extensions with those bars there is plenty of slack under the fairing just a little rerouting,you will need the tool to remove the pins from the connectors so you can get the wires through the bars then reinsert the pins in the connectors after you get the wires through the bars.Of course if you dont run the wires thru the bars you only need brake and clutch cables I used a plus six inch clutch cable and had a indie build me a brake cable so cant help with that,but if you chose to run wires thru the bars good luck it aint easy mine is not TBW and I still had a heck of a time on the throttle side,took off the sheathing and pulled the wires thru staggered enlarged the holes with a dremel helped but still very tight fit I used cycle ones 13'' bars .I initially put on the touring pullback bars hated the wrist position,I was really sore after riding ,then went with 10'' bars but they didnt work for me felt same as stock 13,s did the trick ,im 6 foot tall but kinda short arms. good luck holler back if you need help..Tom...
 

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Sniper
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1,659 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Tom, one of the reasons I went to the Wild One Chubby bars on the 2010 was the holes they drilled for the wires were generous and much less painful. Didn't feel like doin all that crap for the 2012 though. I may just put on black stock bars for now and if I have to change cables etc etc, go with the WO 577B bars again
 

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130 Posts
put the pull back bars on my 2010 ultra (non abs) easy job just rerouted the clutch cable, plenty of room for every thing else and they make a huge difference i just rented a ultra when i was in vegas and it felt akward and i was leaning foward. one tip is if you unbolt the risers at the bottom you can leave the radio in place makes it much easier. also the clutch cable is fine now as you do the job you can see where it needs to go. if you have abs brake cables might be different?
 

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Sniper
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1,659 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I went non ABS on this bike, my SE Ultra had it. Decisions decisions, I must admit I liked the hot rod look of the 12 inch apes. The fairing mirrors on the FLHX leave a little to be desired, I see much better with the bar mounted ones. Even tried stickin on one of the little convex mirrors on the fairing ones but distance is really hard to judge.
 

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Ironbutt
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7,415 Posts
6 to 8 hrs labor is the going rate to do a bar swap, internal wiring, and replace brake line and clutch cable. I've done several and it takes every bit of that amount of time to do it properly.
Yea, i've done a few bar swaps. Just replacing the clutch cable is a job. Gotta remove the exhaust and tranny face. Unless you're a pro 6-8 hours is conservative.
 

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130 Posts
sorry i have been working a lot. clutch cable was fine no binding. the wires wasent bad just send a hard wire through and tape your soft wires to it and a little soap and water will help (patiance also) when i ordered the bars parts guy started looking up other part numbers and i said hey i just want the bars. i had researched it and went with the pull back bars and they are very nice, makes for a much better ride. ps i have had the tall bars also.
 
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