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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a 2016 street bob ( bolt in cam , with tune ... exhaust, air filter etc. )

I've been replacing stuff over time for various reasons. Recently just replaced the 02 sensors and crankshaft position sensor b/c of some old error codes from the onboard diagnostic.

Noticed it about 2-4 months ago, most of the time I have to prime the bike twice to start up. Otherwise it just cranks for a while. Also noticed my the low beam went out yesterday ... doesn't seem related though. Any advice where to look?

Here's some extra info about the bike so we don't waste time..

New parts:
  • harley battery ( ~400 miles ago )
  • 02 sensors front and rear
  • crank shaft position senssor
  • compensator
  • regulator rectifier
  • stator
  • air filter is pretty clean
  • clutch pack maybe 3000 miles
  • spark plugs aren't that old
  • replaced the coil pack a while back ( ~9000 miles ago, b/c it was cracked )

Installed Parts:
  • two into one exhaust
  • new exhaust port gaskets when I put on the exhaust (~3-4000 miles ago)
  • SE air filter
  • bolt in cam, lifters, SS pushrods
  • tuned by small Harley shop

I drive it like hell, hard downshifts, WOT most of the time. Bike still runs fine and pulls hard.

Always replace fluids correctly.
 

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Check fuel pressure. Or at least look in the tank while priming the pump. With a low amount of gas there you might be able to see or hear a leak. How many miles on the fuel filter?
 

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Probably the best place to start is the official Harley Diagnostics Manual for your bike and run the tree for one problem at a time.

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the dynas were known to have a problem with the main ground , you may want to pull it and clean it good, not at the battery where it attaches to the frame, you will probably have to pull the battery box to get to it .
 

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Isn't the 2016 Street Bob a EFI bike? You do not have to prime a EFI bike. The electronics takes care of that. You could be flooding it out by "priming" it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Isn't the 2016 Street Bob a EFI bike? You do not have to prime a EFI bike. The electronics takes care of that. You could be flooding it out by "priming" it.
is that not what is happening when you switch the bike to on?

when I "prime it twice" I mean I flip the kill switch on and off so that the auto primer runs twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pull the trouble codes,,,, follow the diagnostic flow charts to arrive at a conclusion.
may have forgot to mention, I did check the codes.
most were old so not sure if they are related,


I got some codes for 02 sensor and crankshaft position sensor, I replaced those and the bike runs smoother but it didn't help the hard start issue

so far, I reset it couple of days ago and haven't ridden since. so gotta wait and see..



anyway, here's some of the codes I got
keep in mind the computer prob wasn't reset for at least 6k miles

ECM
p0152
p0374
p0562
u0156


BCM

B220152IGN switch off w/VSSIGN SWITCH DIAGNOSTICS

B220651Run/stop switch input open/shorted highENGINE STOP SWITCH DIAGNOSTICS

B227126BCM voltage lowBCM VOLTAGE DIAGNOSTICS

U01419Lost comm w/LHCMNO VEHICLE POWER OR LOST COMMUNICATION DTCS

U01428Lost comm w/RHCMNO VEHICLE POWER OR LOST COMMUNICATION DTCS

U015610Lost comm w/speedoNO VEHICLE POWER OR LOST COMMUNICATION DTCS
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Check fuel pressure. Or at least look in the tank while priming the pump. With a low amount of gas there you might be able to see or hear a leak. How many miles on the fuel filter?
don't think its ever been replaced. I've got 12k miles on the bike

what does looking in the tank do when I prime the pump ?
 

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is that not what is happening when you switch the bike to on?

when I "prime it twice" I mean I flip the kill switch on and off so that the auto primer runs twice.
No, it is not "priming". What you hear is the fuel pump pressurizing the lines. If you flip the kill switch off and right back on and the pump runs again then there is your problem, the line is not holding pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, it is not "priming". What you hear is the fuel pump pressurizing the lines. If you flip the kill switch off and right back on and the pump runs again then there is your problem, the line is not holding pressure.
ok I think the p0152 code could be for fuel pressure
 

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ok I think the p0152 code could be for fuel pressure
P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich

Harley Trouble Codes

It seems like you are having the same troubles you did a month ago when you started another thread and then abandoned it. Hard start, any ideas?

The first thing you need to do is get a Factory Service Manual. The next thing you need to do is pay attention to the folks here trying to help you and give updates about what you have tried and what the result was. Troubleshooting is a process, not a magic bullet.
 

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You also need to clear out those DTCs and see which ones come back, otherwise they aren't giving you any help, they'll just steer you in the wrong direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You also need to clear out those DTCs and see which ones come back, otherwise they aren't giving you any help, they'll just steer you in the wrong direction.

like I said I just reset them last week for the first time and have ridden since
 

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This doesn't seem to be going very well, does it?
 

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Sorry that I used the word "prime" when referring to pressurizing the fuel pump. It's just cuz I don't know the correct word for it, and can't spell pressurize.
I don't think there is a DTC for fuel pressure, but correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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This doesn't seem to be going very well, does it?
That seems to happen a lot with newbies. Apparently thick skin is rare.

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Check the fuel pressure. If that's good, then check the output on the engine temp sensor. If that's fine, look at the plugs. If they show fouling, replace them. I don't think that is the issue, but it would be a shame to spend a lot of time on it only to find that it was fouled plugs later. Also voltage drop the starter while you crank it, make sure its not dropping below specs.

If all of the above is good, and by that I mean you checked it all with gauges and meters, then its time to work on the tune. Initial fuel pulse and cranking fuel.

The first step in checking Harley codes is to purchase the electrical diagnostic manual.

The second step is to clear the codes and then see what comes back after a 20 min ride.

Codes pointing to a bad part is a myth. Codes direct you to a diagnostic procedure.
 
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