V-Twin Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here’s a synopsis. I recently had Wild 1 Chubby bars installed on my FLSTFI…chrome controls, internal wiring, braided steel cables, and turn signal relocation. I think Wild 1 makes a good product and I’m happy with the completed work. My issue is mainly handlebar width and pullback.

Therefore, I plan on replacing the existing bars with better fitting W1 bars, and I’ve been informed that all wiring/cable lengths will work fine. To note: I have tools and know how to use them. I’ve taken everything off the bars before…less the left handgrip and wiring. . I have a couple questions for those who may be able to share their knowledge/suggestions/insights with me.

  • Can I detach the electrical wiring from the controls on the on the handlebars, or do they disconnect from the wiring harness further “in?” If the latter…please provide some clarity. Turn signals should be a non-issue since they were relocated to forks.
  • What’s the best way to route wiring through the new bars? Thinking about it, I believe a coat hanger may work.
  • From surface appearances, this doesn’t appear too difficult. Labor at the place I orignally had it done is 3.5 hours, so I’m wondering what I may be in store for. Experience has proven to me that if it looks easy, it usually is not.
  • Assuming I get this far, what's the easiest way for me to remove the left hand grip?

Thanks for any assistance and ride safe!
 

·
Free Idears Available
Joined
·
2,270 Posts
Just curious....are those the 504 wild1's? If not, which are they and what are you switching to? What exactly don't you like about them?

I bought the HD shop manual (about $50) and while it doesn't cover everything, it has a lot of detail about things like hand control removal....some stuff you would never know without having the manual. There are only two ways I know of to run the wires....cut somewhere and splice/solder together or take the tank off and undo the connectors and then extract the wires carefully from the connectors so they can be run through the bars. (fishing line and a small washer that will fit through the wire slots)

You may find the dealer has already cut/spliced inside the switch housings when it was done the first time, and evey time it is done those wires get a little shorter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Originally posted by 762-MM Here’s a synopsis.

  • Can I detach the electrical wiring from the controls on the on the handlebars, or do they disconnect from the wiring harness further “in?” If the latter…please provide some clarity.
  • Typically it is not a good idea to 'disconnect wiring from the switches they are sealed to some extent to prevent corrosion inside them. Remove the fuel tank and find the connectors, remove the pins after drawing a diagram of what wire colors go to what pin location - this way if you have to extend the wiring you can.
  • What’s the best way to route wiring through the new bars? Thinking about it, I believe a coat hanger may work.I just did this on my g/f new chubby's, I initally ran a string thorugh the handlebars and tied it to hte wiring harness - I also taped the wiring harness to keep the wires from folding back on them selves, the string was un-needed - the wiring harness taped was enoung to push through the bars easily - all I needed was a thin hook to fish the end out of the slot at the center of the bar.
  • From surface appearances, this doesn’t appear too difficult. Labor at the place I orignally had it done is 3.5 hours, so I’m wondering what I may be in store for. Experience has proven to me that if it looks easy, it usually is not. patience is all you need
  • Assuming I get this far, what's the easiest way for me to remove the left hand grip?lift the edge of the grip with a thin screwdriver and squirt a little wd-40 under the raised edge - twist back and forth while pulling rearward - this asumes it won't just twist off by itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Logical:

I was ‘sold’ Wild 1 bars and at first didn’t know the model. After talking to Cycle Visions in San Diego about it, they at initially said I had the W1 503s…and gave me the specs. I then checked with W1 and they never produced a model with the given measurements. I went back to the shop and talked to the tech who installed everything…he then looked up the bars and told me I had CycleSmiths bars (J&P #10-007)(35.5” wide, 12” pullback, 3.5 rise). They were the same price as W1 bars. The 503s would have been a bad fit too.

I’m between the 504s and the 508s. I’m looking for something with less width and more pullback. So far, I’m finding nothing between the 504 and 508 specs…which would work great for me. I’m picking up a service manual in the morning…should have had one anyway


Rustler:

I hear you loud and clear “Patience is all you need.” I plan on taking my time and look forward to seeing under the tank on this bike for the first time. The tech that did the handlebar work before said just what you did…no disconnect at the controls…get to the connectors. Luckily, he said there should be enough length with what I’m trying to fit that no extending will be necessary. Of course I’m not sure yet which bars yet to mount. Thanks for the tips/tricks. Right on with the web site. I’m a native Texan(Houston) living in CA going on two years. Your site compelled to take a quick snapshot (while listening to Charlie Pride) of the first thing I did to my place when I moved here in 2000.



Thanks again!
I’ll let you both know how things work out when removal and replacement is complete.

……in search of the perfect bars….
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top