V-Twin Forum banner
1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Fukengruven
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been debating the idea of switching out my factory apes to a carlini style drag bar. On a scale of 1 to 10 , 1easy-10 hardest, how hard is it to do?
I had my factory cables changed out to braided, when I first got it, they told me I would have to change it all out. At a 6-7hr install .
Bars w 7" riser ..........250.00
cables......................250.00
install 6hrs @70.00.....420.00
w/o tax and ??...........920.00 rough total...
I would like to try myself, but dont wanna get stuck with my bike non-functional...
I would appreciate a lil advice, input from those who have done it in the past..
The dealer was pushing for them to install (of course), but I figured before I let them I would check here for valuable input.


Thanks in Advance!!
:thanks:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Handle bars

I have a 06 Super Glide I changed all of mine with 06 Street Bob parts it took me about 4 hrs and im sure it could be done faster the main thing is too get your brake bled and adjust the throttle cables it doesnt take rocket science.A friend of mine had a leak beteween the jug and the case the dealer wanted 450.00 labor too replace it I did it in about 6 hrs for lunch on him.You just need pati

nce.
 

·
Woo Hoo!
Joined
·
178 Posts
Most of the Dyna's use the same clutch, throttle & idle cables. I doubt you'd have to change any of those being the new bars are not much lower than stock. Might have to change the brake line, I kinda doubt that also. Do it yourself. I did mine in a few hours. Just take your time. 1-2 on a scale of 1-10. Good luck.
jd
 

·
2005 Road King Classic
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
dopen29 said:
I have been debating the idea of switching out my factory apes to a carlini style drag bar. On a scale of 1 to 10 , 1easy-10 hardest, how hard is it to do?
I had my factory cables changed out to braided, when I first got it, they told me I would have to change it all out. At a 6-7hr install .
Bars w 7" riser ..........250.00
cables......................250.00
install 6hrs @70.00.....420.00
w/o tax and ??...........920.00 rough total...
I would like to try myself, but dont wanna get stuck with my bike non-functional...
I would appreciate a lil advice, input from those who have done it in the past..
The dealer was pushing for them to install (of course), but I figured before I let them I would check here for valuable input.


Thanks in Advance!!
:thanks:
Took me 4 hours on my Road King Classic and I have more stuff to remove than you do just to get to the bolts. Put Dyna Wide Glide ape on and didn't have to change out one cable. Did have the gently bend the brake line to run along the side of the bars.
 

·
Fukengruven
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How hard is it to internally wire it??
I just took apart the switch housing, please tell me there is a easy button to hit for this!!
 

·
Pimp Daddy
Joined
·
386 Posts
It's not that hard. You have to get to the connectors in the backbone of the frame, then pull the pins out and route them through the new handlebars. It's not that hard at all, the hardest part is getting the wires through the new bars. The other thing you may have to worry about is making the wires too short to get the harness back into the backbone but we can help you out with that if you get to that point.
 

·
Fukengruven
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This may sound really, really stupid, but do I have to disconect the wires from the switches? or do I leave them intact, and disconnect from under the seat/tank( I havent looked there yet)?
This is a very intimidating procedure for me, but really want to try it myself..
Thanks again for the repiles..
#@SasF#
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
I just ran my wires inside of the bars on my 05 WG. There are threads on this site about the particulars but briefly: Remove seat, gas tank, head light, chain guard, rear fender, battery and box, cut cable ties (front and rear), work wiring through frame tube by neck, uplug handlebar connectors, remove wires with pins (be sure to label), drill bars and remove burs, feed wires through, re-attach connectors and put back together. I probably removed a couple of things you wouldn't have to but it sure made the job easier.
 

·
Doing time, behind bars!
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
More information.......

dopen29 said:
This may sound really, really stupid, but do I have to disconect the wires from the switches? or do I leave them intact, and disconnect from under the seat/tank( I havent looked there yet)?
This is a very intimidating procedure for me, but really want to try it myself..
Thanks again for the repiles..
#@SasF#
NO, do not remove the wiring from the switches. You remove the pins from the Deutsch connector. There is a special tool for this, but I found that a common jewellers type screw driver works the best.

You pull back the orange cover (mine was) from the back of the connector, slide it down the wires a little, then inside there is a small clip you need to push to one side to free the pin which is on the end of the wire. To put it back together you just push it in and it locks into place - put the cover over the 6 wires first :duh?:

Write down the order of the colors of the wires and where they go, or take very good pictures. I did both and became dyslexic putting these back in; some how everything I did was reversed???? It is tricky but do-able.
You should have a service manual, not just the owners manual, to help you out.

Hope that helps, John :yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
More Info

Snowman is right on!

Do not remove the wires from the switches. Remove them from the connectors.

Note which color connector goes to which side of the handlebars. I believe Grey is for the clutch side, and Black is for the throttle side. I may have them reversed though.

Then write the wire color(s) down for each pin number in the connector. There is a small number embossed on the side of each pin hole on the connector. Use this number to match the wire color back to the correct pin on reassembly.

I cut the outside plastic protector rubber tubing off of my wires about 2" down from the switch housing. I then pulled 3 wires at a time through the bars from the top hole to the bottom hole. If I remember correctly, there were six wires for each side. When I replaced the switch housing, I tucked the 2" of outer tubing into the hole in the handlebar by the indentation. I then reused the remainder of the outer tubing from the hole at the bottom of the bars back to the connectors. I did not use the outer tubing inside the main part of the handlebars.

Took me about 3 hours total. This included replacing the switch cap covers with new chrome covers. Now that was really fun and is another story.

Good luck. It isn't hard. Just document your wire colors to the proper connector color (grey or black) pins.

Ron
 

·
Fukengruven
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will be taking the tank off tonight, after work to give a look, for the deutesch connector. Wish me luck...:Banadance
 

·
26 yrs USAF 6K Flt hrs
Joined
·
31 Posts
I just want to know how to remove the plastic wire loops from the bars without damaging them - I do not want to hunt down a dealer here that would carry them or even pay their prices (Euro):dunno:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
196 Posts
I just finished the internal wiring on a set of apes for mine - only recomendation I would offer that is not already in the other threads is find a source for the Duetsch connectors and pins. I bought all new pins, cut the wires leaving the pinds in the connectors, lengthened tghe wires by soldering and then after pulling them through the bars crimped on new pins and inserted them into the Duetsch connectors. Much easier IMO than trying to get the wires all exactly the same length with the pins still on them.

I purchased the pins (and a new connector sinced I broke one of them) from a website - www.battsracing.com I believe (hope the mods don't mind this being here - not advertising for them just offering up a source I found after about an hour of searching). You can use a standard crimper on the new pins - I bought the enclosed ones which are a step up in quality from the stock ones and they all seem to have worked great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Get the manual and try not to cut any wires..

I have been working with changing parts out on my 2006 Street Bob.. relocating the ft. turns.. and rear turns..Handle bars, headlight, foward controls, covers, etc.
Refused to let the Dealership touch it.. Found out through trial and error about NOT cutting the wires.. Now it's There!! Those cut and resoldered wires under the tank.!!.. Much better off taking your time and getting the manual.. reading all about it, and maybe buying new connectors and pins.. for spares.. If you going to ba modifing it a lot.. I suggest getting the tool for it.. I changed out my Mini apes and put A Deuce bar kit on it.. Came with shortened clutch and brake cable.. (off Ebay, $49.99) Love it and can stand the wind better.. The 6" risers and 4 " handlebar puts me 2" lower, 3 " pullback and 28 instead of 31" across.. I tried to use one of the "Wind Vests" windshields, worked good on the Mini apes.. But with Duece or drag bars.. looks stupid.. May end up with a "Sportech" detachable for when it's almost unavoidable on long runs etc. More money..!!
My biggest problem with the 06 Dyna's is no real choice of aftermarket seats..
Anybody have any info on that??? Tried to post a pic but image too big for this post.. thanks, Sam
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
871 Posts
I switched to flattrack bars last summer and it took me about 45 minutes. The only bars that would take a lot more time would be apes, due to the length difference. Anything shorter than stock only takes minutes to change. If the cables/brake lines are too short, then it takes a lot more time and money. If they are too long, then it's no big deal since you can just reroute them. Bars are one of the easiest things to change on a bike. If you take it to the stealership, expect to pay for the time according to what their book says it will take. They can usually do it in less than half the listed time. Basically, you will get ripped off. That's just the sad fact of using the dealer for maintenance or parts. :(
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
871 Posts
Shipwreck said:
I just want to know how to remove the plastic wire loops from the bars without damaging them - I do not want to hunt down a dealer here that would carry them or even pay their prices (Euro):dunno:
Just cut them and use plastic tie wraps (zip ties). They're cheap and you can get them in any electrical supply store. They come in several colors, too. I use blue to match my paint. They will work just as well. If you want something else, check J&P Cycle. I'm sure they have something that will work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Handlebar clips..

They pop out easily... Just wiggle and pull out one side.. you will see that thier little nibs or tips which will pop back in.. no problem...
 

·
Fukengruven
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I haven't been able to get started yet.I am gonna try tommorow.:hmmm:
Just a few more questions,
Do I need to take the tank off?
Where exactly is the Deutech Connector, for the bars?
I was telling a friend of mine about my project, (hes a HD wrencher from way back), He told me just to cut the wires, and then solder them back together, rather than run them thru the backbone? Is this possible? Recommended or not.
Thanks again..
 

·
Registered
2012 FLTRX, 2014 FLHTK
Joined
·
160 Posts
I have a 97 wideglide and I did the exact thing you are about to do. I have a set of Carlini t-bars on it now that I installed myself. First thing is that your braided lines, throttle, brake, clutch, all need to be a few inches shorter than stock. I bought 2" under stock and they are still too long, they work, but would be better shorter. Second, i did what your friend said, cut the wires and solder them back together. I cut them just by where they come out of the gooseneck that way I only had to run them through the bars. Third, make sure you tape the wires to the little ropes running through the bars very well. One side went through easily and the other side came off the rope, took about 2 hours to get the damn wires through without the rope. Overall the install was not very hard, it just took time and patience. If I had not lost the one rope it would have taken about 2-3 hours.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top